BogMonster

Thanks Email winging its way through the etherweb to Thermoman right now

Could you measure the display panel of yours please Tony, and let me know how big it is? I think I can fit it into the middle bit of my dash (mine has the 02> dash with the big centre panel) but just need to check - otherwise I'll have to order the pod to put it in as well. Also what did you modify about the thermocouple? Thanks

I had a problem like this when I had a Td4 a few years ago. Sometimes I would go back to the vehicle and find it unlocked and the back window would be down. Took ages to figure out that the "unlock" button on the fob was being pressed in my pocket, this would first unlock the vehicle and then if pressed long enough would drop the rear window. Stopped carrying the keys in the same pocket as coins, house keys etc and the problem went away!

I don't understand that - if the system is the same as mine (and I did change my own tank last year, a 30 min job turned into an all day one as the coil pipes which I thought were the same were about 10mm out so I had to re-do the whole fr*ggin thing ) there should be a cold feed from the header tank into the bottom of the cylinder, a hot feed out the top of the cylinder to the taps, and from that, there should be a vent pipe which goes up to above the level of the header tank (most I have seen actually then go over and drain back into the header tank), these are there to prevent exactly this sort of thing: any pressure or vacuum in the tank, if the water in the cylinder boils for some reason the excess pressure just blows up the vent and back into the header tank but it would let air in, in the reverse direction. So it should be completely impossible to get a vacuum in the tank. I wonder if the vent pipe is blocked, or not even there? Post a picture taken from a bit further back so all the ins and outs are visible; I'm curious to see how the plumbing is wired up

Thanks Tony/everybody, I'll poke off an email to Ian to see about shipping (and find out at the same time if my credit card - which hasn't been working properly for two months has been fixed) By the way TC one of the bolts has fallen out of yours is that the EGR plate supplied by them or did you make your own? for about a tenner it hardly seems worth the bother I am thinking, especially if it is an odd thread, and it also means I have the old one to refit if I sell the vehicle

Thanks guys I was thinking White90 had a neat little digital gauge in his, something from LRE quite a while back, maybe this was a Thermoguard one? I was thinking TC got it in the UK somewhere but will wait his reply anyway. You're right about US businesses "oh gee we'll send it FedEx" ... pause ... "where did you say you were again Fedex and TNT never heard of it" mind you we get that problem with UK businesses too

I think I'd get the whole thing as supplied by LR rather than trying a cheap repair, for much the same reason. I imagine you could re-bearing them, but if you ended up with the brg a bit lop sided or something you could have a "300Tdi Timing belt problem" all of your own making

I think the postage would be a bit steep What is really annoying is that the place I linked to above (Lawson HIS) is the same place I ordered the black waxoyl from (can't buy it here) ... if I had realised at the time I could have ordered some of the other gunge as well

Tony, Have you got details of the supplier(s) you got bits from for your exhaust gas temp gauge/sender? As I am going to add a bigger intercooler to my 300Tdi in the not too distant future, I figured that this time I would do it "properly" which means fitting a gauge to the std engine and watching it for a bit before I twiddle with or fit anything. If you could post details & maybe a couple of pictures it would be another good one for the tech archive I reckon TIA

I just had a rummage around and the stuff BnA use is PX24 (off the BnA website and a Google) bit pricey to do a whole chassis with though!

Now I really hate them! I bought some new non-genuine bushes (grand cost of £1.76!) after posting this and replaced them as a temporary solution to the noise till my Monroes arrive ... problem sorted, but: ONE BLUDDY TRIP off road last weekend and they are knackered as they are clonking again!!! Not impressed - bring back the old design!! I think Mr Cold Chisel is going to be talking to Mr Axle Bracket in the near future, and the old sort will be put on there with the separate washers.

I might sent Chris P an email and ask his opinion ... I know he says that he dries it with some sort of hot air blower thing when the vehicle is up on a ramp, dries it in about 30 min or something, but can't help wondering whether it dries inside the chassis rails etc - I would have thought probably not (thinking about it I might do those before I pressure wash the chassis, then the outside after it has dried) I suppose the obvious thing to do is break out some of the Waxoyl I have downstairs and do a few tests on some bits of wet and dry metal to see what the respective "stickiness" is. The other thing would be to hose some WD40 around in the moist bits to get rid of the water, but I suppose the waxoyl wouldn't stick to that!

Damn! beaten to it!

Thanks I think I will leave doing it till about Christmas time then maybe wash it off a day or two before I go away for my 2 week holiday, hopefully it will be more or less dry by the time I get back! When it is dry and windy here in mid summer the drying conditions are pretty good outside, so knowing my luck that means it will tip down with rain all summer

I think I know what the answer to this is going to be but.... When you are applying Waxoyl does the surface have to be perfectly dry or does the stuff have water-dispersing properties as well? At some stage I have several cans to go under the Discovery as the LR idea of a chassis coating on the Discovery 2's is rubbish and mine has quite a lot of minor surface rust now, but the problem I have is that it is quite mucky from being used on unsurfaced roads all the time so will require a lot of attention with a pressure washer to make it fit to apply anything. Then the problem is I can't use it until it has been treated because it will get filthy again within a couple of days! Most of the chassis will dry off fairly quickly (I am probably going to leave doing it until the summer as it will never dry at this time of year) but all the little nooks and crannies that are corrosion traps probably won't, hence the question - is it a complete waste of time applying it to a chassis that isn't perfectly dry? I don't have any means of speeding up the drying process, I suppose a heated spraybooth would be the answer, but we don't have one at work.

Such a large loophole that I think you'll probably find that you could use a non UK registered vehicle for three or six months in any period of two years or something like that. If not I could have an FI registered vehicle in the UK and be exempt from everything, no emissions, MOT, pay my road tax here (£93 a year) insurance for less than £100, quite cheap motoring really Wonderful

[insane cackle] Can I have one of those please? [/insane cackle] Preferably with a roof though, as I'd rather not die by drowning

Disclaimer: if you are offended or even slightly huffed by naughty words it would be best not to follow the link below as there are quite a few others on there..... A comprehensive answer to the question is here 54 definitions of "biatch" - which if nothing else underlines the fact that the Interweb really is a source of useless information!!!

A winning lottery ticket in my hand.... £77 million would just about do

Oops looks like another word needs to be added to this one

I assumed it was a modified version of "bitch" to confuse the forum censoring software that filters out words like **** **** and ******* Though as its proper meaning is a lady dog, that isn't rude, so maybe not Les

I don't think LR approve bio fuels in any of the engines. I was talking to an engineering guy who worked for LDV the other day and he said the big problem with dodgy fuels is that the tolerances inside the high-pressure pumps on common rail engines are so tight (to get the high pressure) that any sort of crud in there just wrecks the guts of the pump. He wasn't that impressed when I showed him some of our "diesel samples" from a couple of years back - it was the sort of stuff that a Russian snowplough would turn its nose up at, never mind an EU3 common rail diesel Fuel prices are going silly .... petrol is 64p a litre here now (it was 35p a litre not long ago) and diesel is a scandalous 36p a litre ... mutter mutter I remember when it was 25p a litre Why do I get the feeling I won't get much sympathy

No idea about running it out of fuel - but usually if noisy it means they are on the way out. What's "laundered fuel" - anything like laundered money? sounds dodgy!

I had heard there was a sport called "extreme ironing" but I didn't really believe it until I saw that photo