BogMonster

u've been to the same school of motoring as me That would be the "As fast as possible, as slow as necessary" school?

Achtung! Hande hoch! For you Tommy ze var is over. Gott in Himmel ein Schpitfeuer!takatakatakatakatakatakatakatakatakataka Aaaagh! Der Baron von Reichs-Pudding vill awenge der spillink of der German blood unt ve shall send ein squadron of Panzers to smash der Englander unt Amerikaner forces on der beaches. Between learning Commando in my formative years and Blackadder later on when I was supposed to be doing a degree I'm a proper linguist

In fairness there is a bit more to some people's disgruntledness than just that Fisha

One problem I have seen on 265/75R16 MT's is splitting round the middle of the tyre after a couple of years when they are fitted to rims too narrow for that tyre width, usually the 5.5" Defender steel rims. Never seen it when they are fitted to 7" rims though.

[whine] As clear as mud to my simple mind

I've got BFG AT's on the Discovery (2nd set now) and MT's (2 sets one 265/75R16 and one 33x12.50R15) for the 90 and I love 'em. I run the 90 ones at about 22psi far lower than you are supposed to and the Disco ones are also lower about 25psi front 30psi rear, no problems. It is interesting to note though, that the AT's fitted to a lot of ex-Japan Pajeros imported here second hand are cracking up in many cases, splitting between the treads. No idea why - maybe ones sold in Japan are made in a different plant and not as good? The ones we sell here ex-UK are brilliant anyway, not that many people buy them as Kumhos etc are much cheaper but the BFGs last.

ouch! compared to which which I have seen 300Tdis with up around 100,000 miles on and still have the original hone marks in the bores (when used with an original air cleaner element and properly serviced)

Nowt wrong with KG2 I used it for the recovery in the above photos as it happens and it worked perfectly It's just had a mild restyle. Round bolt holes the right size for the bolts are just soooo last year I didn't get round to trying the modifications I emailed you about as I managed to get stuck twice on Sunday and after that I had expended far too much energy to do any serious experiments so it'll have to wait for another day

Oi!

Thanks Jim I have noticed that to get the gear pins to engage you sometimes need to give the cable a tug (or put your hand on the drum and move it back and forth a bit/press the controller button) to get the operating lever to click to go fully home, so I can see how it could happen - also having been into the guts of the gearbox I know which bit must wear - it'll be the plate on the end of the gearbox with a splined hole in it that engages with the drive shaft, I guess if only half engaged it would be over-stressed. I'll be careful and thanks for the info

Nah. Nige would have used at least 12mm

Schweinhund Englander! I recognise that dialect - I learned it from the Commando comics when I were a lad

The owner of said Suzuki (purchased for just £300 purely for abuse! plus a few cans of expanding foam and body filler to fill up the holes in the body, Zooki fun is cheap....!) blew up 2 (or was it 3) diffs with the 10.50s on and then "downsized" tyres a bit Also they rubbed "just a bit" on the bodywork! Good in soft ground though ... they are great little things here as they are so light so will go just about anywhere, my father ran one on the farm for years and used to go all over the place in it. Shame about the "ride" though

I can also tell you that the back diffs don't last long if you put 31x10.50R15 MT's on it and then loosen the nut behind the steering wheel quite considerably "What was that bang?"

Tut tut tut tut tut tut tut tut tut tut tut tut tut tut tut tut tut tut tut

Ta surprising though ... if you had an aggressive MT on one side and a road tyre on the other the braking could be quite "interesting"!

Nah My house is still dry cos I built it on top of a hill instead of below sea level

Would having 3 different types of tyre on a vehicle (all the same size but three different makes and tread patterns) be considered serious enough to fail a UK MOT?

Soda Stream type bottle? I have a "valve" on the end of mine which does my beer barrels, it would be easy to braze another bit on the end to fit a tyre valve. Then all you would have to do is push the bottle onto the tyre instead of the barrel and fsssssssssssssssssh up it would go

How about a cutoff switch off a workshop compressor? I don't know if they could be set as low as 30psi or whatever you are running for road use, but that is something designed to cut off a compressor at a set pressure Otherwise - simple but should work - you could time how long it takes to go from 15psi to 30psi with an ARB compressor and just have one of those beepy kitchen countdown timers, set it for 5 min or however long it needs and it will tell you when to go for a look

Just move to a country with no trees Tony

Mine's out of warranty now anyway That was my point JB ... there isn't much in a MM gearbox to break! The motor won't, because it just stops The motor to gearbox driveshaft won't, because it's about as thick as a halfshaft The drive doesn't go through any of the planetary gears in high range what else? locking pin(s)? shouldn't be the casing as the force on everything is much less. Not starting a will it/won't it argument I'd just like to know what to expect and what will go if I do break it, do you have any info on exactly what problems others have experienced please Jim? if it is just something simple like the locking pins then I might just get some "spares" in. Ta

I used David Bowyers method from his website for the 3 I have done to date. It is the neatest way and there seems to be no problem with the strength of the splice

I have heard differing opinions on that Tony ... some say you can, some say not Milemarker quote a line pull in high range on their website here which would suggest that you can. I'd be interested to hear any evidence that there is a problem though, has anybody broken one doing this? perhaps only if fed on higher pressure than the std pump provides? Jim, any comments/experience on this? It doesn't seem to worry mine anyway, if you do overload it in high it just stops when the pump relief valve opens, you can tell when it's getting close as you get a slightly "hydraulicy" noise just before it stalls. I guess it will do the same thing in low but I haven't found that yet. I washed the plasma as it was getting a bit mucky and because it holds so much water I took it to the container yard at work and hooked it onto a stack of 20' ISO containers (stacked 2 high) to give it a good pull in low range to squeeze most of the water out. Shifted the heap of containers - oops oh well they were only about 5 tons next time I must find something heavier

though it was down to my own laziness.... I have been using the tie-down rings on the front for hooking the winch cable on to then today due to a minor "misjudgement" I did this: Well it looked hard..... Had to do a fair bit of excavation even to get to the winch cable, couldn't even feel the damn hook never mind get it off! so I had to use the snatch block and double line it as I couldn't free the end of the cable. A sensible (i.e. much higher up) place to hook the cable on to is a problem to be addressed on my new winch bumper I think But I learned something useful: double lining a MM in high range actually works quite well, 3 x the speed of single line in low range and I guess about 3500lb pull which was easily enough to move this even when buried down to the bumper. I have never used a snatch block with the MM before (you don't need to in low range) but double line in high range is something I might use more often as it is a good compromise of speed/power