BogMonster

I am going to make the outer bits stronger though, I have bent the std outer bumper ends a few times on the old 90, and box section should be much stronger than C-section like the ordinary bumper A couple of proper towing hitches are also on the "maybe" list though they are 'kin expensive!

Then you'll need some stronger springs for that side too

Er ... couldn't possibly comment

Are you sure it isn't sitting on a propshaft or something, that's why it doesn't line up? Flee

I did think of that but I want it nice and strong and I figured with it only being 4mm if I tapered it the end would be likely to bend, which is something I want to get away from. Might change my mind yet though I don't have oxyacetylene either (though I could use the one at work)

Thanks ... when I get that far I'll give it a whirl with the jigsaw and see what happens At the moment I am fiddling with the KittyGripper design, oh and doing a damage assessment on stuff like how round most of the bolt holes aren't What I have in mind is that when I build the winch bumper I have the support leg off the side of a Portakabin (90x90x4mm box section) which is going to form the main part of the bumper with an 8 or 10mm plate let into it for the winch mounting, but I don't want to just hack the ends off square so I thought I would try and cut it from the back edge into a curve like on a std LR bumper, leaving the front face intact, then flatten the front face round and weld it to give a completely sealed box ... should be waterproof (no internal corrosion) and nice and strong for popping a tow rope onto. I'll probably do the ends first as it will be easier to work with just the box section than after I've added 1/2 ton of steel plate to it! What I really need is the front off an old chassis to use as a template for the mounts ... I don't want to take the MM off until the bumper is almost finished and ready for a test fit, and stuff usually changes size between when I measure it and when I later go to fit it so being able to build it "on a chassis" (even if only the front 2ft!) would be a bonus! I hope I'll be able to cut everything else in straight lines with the grinder... otherwise I will be up a certain creek without a certain instrument

Starting bid £30k!! mad but if you had the money you just would....

This might seem like a silly question but ... how thick a bit of steel can you get away with cutting with a jigsaw, given a few spare blades and a reasonable amount of patience? I'm looking at doing something that requires some curves, don't have any access to any lovely kit like a plasma cutter it needs to be neater than a gas axe, and cutting bendy things with a grinder or hacksaw doesn't really work ... so I'm wondering if a jigsaw would cope, never really tried anything thicker than about 1mm. I know they are only really supposed to do thin stuff but would it cope with 4mm? I have never tried it and I only have 1 bit of metal the size I need so don't want to start and then find it doesn't work and I have F'ed it up! The only other stuff I have lying around is either a lot thicker or a lot thinner so no good for experimentation and if I can't find a way of doing what I want to do I'll have to fiddle with the design a bit. If it'll do 6mm that would be even better Ta

All Tdi turbos whistle when working hard, some people will say they don't but I think it is down to people's hearing, I have never heard a turbo that doesn't but I have very good high frequency hearing. But if there has been a sudden and noticeable change then yes you probably do have a problem. I would check for: - split/detached hoses (air escaping, though usually more of a hiss than a whistle if it happens) - blocked air filter - split or otherwise leaking intercooler, whistle will be air escaping - delaminated turbo hose (usually the little 90 deg one that comes out of the turbo heading towards the intercooler, looks OK from the outside but a layer peels off the inside and blocks the airflow, you will have to take it off for a look but only 2 jubilee clips to remove) - damage to the impeller vanes (take the inlet/outlet hoses off and get a mirror and a torch and see if there is any obvious damage to the vanes) I once saw a 300Tdi turbo that had sucked something through the impeller, a lump was missing out of every leading edge on the impeller, worked fine but sounded "just a bit noisy" about 10 x the usual whistle!) I've never actually blown up a turbo nor do I know anybody that has, so I'm not sure what they sound like when they are knackered but it might be a sign of impending failure. More likely to be one of the above causes though IMHO. The other thing that makes them whistle is if you wind the fuelling right up, that brings the noise (and power) up a bit

Good idea won't work on my MM though as there is only a wee bolt, no hole & grub screw Time you tidied your workshop up and threw all those old shoes out too

Might be a good idea to feed it some oil and try and get it moving before you stuff a load of hot exhaust up it, I've never tried spinning one only checked the amount of play in the bearing

Oh yes. I want a set of those!

Stilettos should be quite good for controlled hill descents I should think ... plenty of grip! Not sure they would suit me though contact patch is probably a bit small for peat

Sounds OK to me ... the last thing you want is one a bit too small! Quite an interesting "remote controlled" battery isolator for twin battery systems, on that page.

Geoff This way ^ is up if that's any help

Prob not much good to wipe your a*** on though Dave although if it has been through an elephant twice presumably it could be washed and re-used!

There is a new part number for the coupling kit which is TVF something so probably yes, I can't check at the moment but that is probably right. Just a superceded number AFAIK. I would be inclined to fit the UJ at each end type, this is fitted to some later V8 Disco's I have seen a 1998 model one with a twin UJ rear prop (factory fitted) though my own 1996 model had a doughnut.

I think that was about 5p worth Nige

hmmm OK I'll rephrase that as it appears I am now a mod on only 1 forum ... this one

Well if it's any consolation I'm supposed to be a mod on both forums and I haven't got a 'kin clue what is going on.... no forums yesterday and then two this morning

Beamed up by aliens?

er what's the story behind your avatar??? eek ... looks expensive!

Brownchurch do a double cab rack, it just has 2 supports down to the back, similar sort of idea to the Commercial that I have on the 90 I think, but a bit stronger. I must admit I didn't think it looked up to the job (unusual, for Brownchurch) and your idea of 2 ladders should be better (as long as they are the old-style ladders made out of box section steel and not the rubbish new ones they supply just made out of steel bar). There's a couple of people here who have done a brilliant "solid double-cab" conversion, basically threw the canvas away, got an old upper cab & roof off a Series 3 or something, cut it to fit and put a false front in it with a window, this means you can put a proper 110 rear door in, complete with wiper, heated window, lock etc etc it also means you can fit a normal 110 roof rack with all the feet in the right places It really depends on what sort of roads you will be using it on but a spare wheel on the rear section might not be a good thing if you are using it on a lot of rough roads, I wouldn't do it here anyway, it is one reason I went for the Commercial rack with the stays down to the body, because standard roof racks break the roof on a normal LR without having 4' of the rack sticking out with relatively little support. The crewcab upper cab is relatively weak because it doesn't have any big panel sections, there's only the windscreen frame, B pillars and the thin rear curved section none of which are very strong, and I think that a big "tail" wagging it would soon cause problems. Having seen one that rolled and landed on its roof I wouldn't like to have been in it. Basically though, I would say the stronger you can make it the better, or go for a "solid" rear cab section as described above which brings all sorts of other benefits.

That was about what my Dyneema cost I think, maybe a bit less (not sure exactly as freight etc was on top of that so it cost about £170 for 90ft & an oversize swivelly hook, landed here)

Life size picture eh? That's a very good price, when/if I need any more I'll be after some from you how much do Scrap Iron sell it for? my Dyneema (10mm) ex DB was quite a bit more than that even with the modest discount for buying 3 bits!