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bluehaze

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Everything posted by bluehaze

  1. bluehaze
    Wind the window, pop a piece of 3x2" in between the door and latch, and apply pressure (by bouncing) at the top and bottom of the door. It will take time and a lot of effort but you will push the top and bottom of the door in (a little).
  2. bluehaze
    X - Elephant foot X - Eng big foot
  3. bluehaze
    I think we are talking about the same stuff - looks like bubble rap only made of foil. I use evo stick spray on glue (halfrauds) but I always tape the sides and all joints with foil tape. I try and find some pics........
  4. bluehaze
    Jason, That was a mistake I made when constructing the draw - I'm going to rip it out this summer and insulate the wheel arches with closed cell aerofoil (B&Q ect) type stuff.
  5. bluehaze
    Mrs Bluehaze suggests: X - Rhino X - securem X - Pedal Locker X - Eng Locker
  6. bluehaze
    Or even X - Praetorian I like classical history!!!!!
  7. bluehaze
    Si, that's brilliant. X - pedal protector X - fastener X - floor fast'ner X - floor security My favourite: X - Praetorian guard box http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Praetorian_Guard
  8. bluehaze
    Hi, Have you had the bulkhead off at any time or replaced either of the outriggers? Your bulkhead might be at the wrong angle, which in turn throws the door allignment out.
  9. bluehaze
    Try a search engine and see what comes up.
  10. bluehaze
    Wire a relay in to safe guard the switch
  11. bluehaze
    Phil made this cover for my dash - absolute top job
  12. bluehaze
    I taped my piston with gaffa tape then covered in in grease - it no longer drives me insane!
  13. bluehaze
    As Maverik says but you will need a switch for the interior light. It is a really good mod.
  14. bluehaze
    I got rid of the old 19j heater and replaced it with a td5 one. I also changed the thermastat. Since then there is actually heat!
  15. bluehaze
    Why not just cover it without removing the factory fitted material? I saw one done with leather and it looked great.
  16. bluehaze
    Mine had shims in when I stripped it down, so I put them back when I rebuilt the back. I used 3mm chequer and angle to reconstruct the rear. Originally I bolted it back in using 6mm bolts but have started replacing them with rivets as they make a stronger fixing (some of the bolts have started to loosen off).
  17. bluehaze
    If the top is sticking out put a spacer or two between the body and the hinge on the lower hinge; that will force the top in. If more than two are needed then I'd go for the brute force method.
  18. bluehaze
    This is what I've done for my 110: http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f15/storage-solutions-112363.html
  19. bluehaze
    Definately chaeck the bulbs - cheap as chips on fleabay
  20. bluehaze
    Is power comming out of the stalk? Try changing the flasher unit.
  21. bluehaze
    I had a similar problem recently with the temperature going up - turned out to be a small split in the header tank.
  22. bluehaze
    Around the £750 I would think.
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