CR88

I was test driving after some deep rebuild, and when was leaving a roundabout in 2nd I pressed more aggressively the pedal. Initially, the engine pushed very well, but suddenly I had a severe power loss until it stopped completely. I found a big amount of air in the diesel circuit, it was attempted to bleed off without success. The fuel pump is new, and apparently, everything is ok. In next morning it was needed to move the car in the garage, and it started perfectly without showing none of the problems found in previews day. It is possible that the problem comes from the injector pump since it was transplanted from other engine and it wasn't revised?

Hello all, Problem solved. Al heat shield just in the bottom (similar to the part 19 in the picture above), heat sleeve for the clutch pipes, and competition brake fluid (in this case Castrol SRF, but there are many others and cheaper). Thanks for your feedback and help.

Hello all, Call for setup and photos for longer, stronger and more recent shock absorbers in leafers (S2 & S3) Fox, Bilstein, others... Thanks and BR,

Hi, I'm going for the exhaust wrap just between the turbo and the slave cylinder. A heat shield is an option as well and easy to fit as well. Let's see how it works.

no, no protection at all exhaust wrap may help. What do you think? Thanks

It makes sense. 200 tdi + lt77 short bellhousing Anyone in the forum had a similar problem?

Hello all, My LR after running for a while in highway lost clutch pressure, and difficult or even impossible to engage/disengage any gear. This issue is making me crazy for a while, because, both master, slave cylinder and even the circuit are all new. This malfunction appears after running for a while, but in normal roads it doesn't happen. After some time and after pumping the clutch it eventually works again. ALL points to air/leak in the hydraulic circuit but it was redone for the 2nd time already... Any idea?

Hi, I studying a way to "improve" the steering linkage in my Land Rover (it is suffering some hybridization process in the steering), and I would like to design some components in CAD. For that I need to have the dimensions of the original Ball Joints or CAD file. Does anyone can help me? Thanks for all !!!

I agree that the 300 tdi manifolds are in theory more interesting, but the turbo exhaust pipe is aligned with the 200 tdi engine mount and that may present some issues. The 200 tdi exhaust manifold may present some issues in LHD series with the original Steering linkage.

Hi, My suggestions are for a LHD Series with a 200 tdi from Disco/RR, This is simple, you can always made a custom flex hose with different thread in each end. This may took in extra cost (in the case of a 200 tdi from Disco/RR): Move the alternator to air con position (you will create extra space for the piping) I strongly believe (can anyone correct me if I'm wrong) that the turbine curl of the 200 tdi turbo can be rotated . The airbox; LHD series, can be located in right side of the car. Hope that this description can help you.

The short LT 77 from a 90/Defender it's ideal to an 88 in.

Soren, isn't a question of assault, it's more a question of stubbornness. For many reasons I prefer solid solutions to a pair of trousers made of patches. I have a 69 88in that if I could I would to go with it everywhere, and for that reason I try to match the best and most solid solutions that match my pocket. I have the same point as you, opinions should be as different as possible, that make the debates more rich. Snagger, I have this directive in my life "don't swap the new by the good one", maybe in English you find a saying that suits better my idea. Regarding the new stuff, and diesel engines, in the past 25 years these engines developed in a way that everybody get surprised. Since the diesel engines by concept are limited to 4000 - 4500 rpm, the increase of power was done by the improvement of the torque. Thanks to that, gearboxes had a revolution as well. Nowadays it's easy to find 2.0 liter diesel engines around 400 N.m, much more then a Tdi or 2.25 diesel. The great thing is that these new engines are quieter and smoother and deliver the power more gradually. The trend is smaller engines and beefy gearboxes. Regarding design margins, I'm in complete agreement. Old school material was design to harsher conditions. But I believe that this last sentence can be discussed in a new topic. "Old vs New, which is more dependable"

ok ok, hit me no more!!! the only advantage that the series has is the weight (500 kg less at least, 109 vs discovery), and justifies your feedback. my concern is more technical and yours more practical. my experience with my series gearbox isn't the best with the original engine, so far I cannot give a feedback that supports the Tdi in series gearbox

Your transmission configuration is one example of a solution that can be overstressed easily. High gear ratio combined with taller tires isn't the ideal for the transmission. Nevertheless, your feedback is valid, it's based in your own experience and I know other examples like yours near to me. But, generally, I like to follow numbers, and these are the facts: 2.25-litre petrol - 120 lbf·ft (160 N·m) @ 2,000 rpm 2.25-litre diesel - 103 lbf·ft (140 N·m) @ 1,800 rpm 200Tdi / 300Tdi - 195 lbf·ft (264 N·m) / 210 lbf·ft (280 N·m) @ 1,800 rpm (Defender) The torque of the 200/300 Tdi is, more or less, the double of any Series's 4I engine and this is superior to any design/project safety margin that I know. This kind of over-engineering doesn't make sense. There are other points to be mention as well, like lubrication, syncro design, gearbox case strength, points that when the series gearbox was design were not so developed as now or when the LT77 or R380 were projected. But I reaffirm, depending on the gearbox condition and in the driving pattern it can last, but I don't trust in this solution.

Hi, I think that everything regarding possible solutions are already mentioned. I bet in the Santana IIIA gearbox or LT77. They are stronger than any series gearbox. The reason of my reply is to clear just one point. Gearboxes are structural dimensioned to the torque, not power. More power implies more heat, that can be solved with an oil cooler, like in some R380 gearboxes. All the TDis (200 and 300) have at least twice the torque of any series engine. This don't mean that driven carefully and having a decent gearbox it will last for some time, but the series gearbox aren't made for such torque or power. If you want something reliable, for everyday use not for weekend fun, don't install a TDI in series gearbox.

Found the info necessary here: http://www.gwynlewis4x4.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2014/05/200tdi-Disco-Alternator-Mount-Fitting-Instructions.pdf

Hi, Before presenting my question I would like to mention that I made a search to find a similar topic without success. I have a 200 tdi, from a RR w/o AC. My idea is moving the alternator from the original position to AC location, an obvious solution when installing a second alternator. The issue over here, is which pulley I should use, since I found no free pulley. Which pulley I should use? Can you give me some tips, since I made a search for similar images and so far no luck at all. Thanks, CR

Hi, In the world of diff locks there are some names that build great reputation. Kam is solid brand but the typical solution was costly thanks to the retrofitting required to install their locker. Now; maybe some time ago, I just notice a few days ago; they were able to solve that problem presenting the Drop in Locker. Anyone installed this solution? What is your opinion about this locker? Thanks

Yes, if I put some potatoes bags it will go lower, and, I believe that should be the problem, lack of weight in the rear. Since I want a solution capable for multiple situations, loaded, soft and hard top this configuration with 3 leafs on the rear made more sense. Is more an aesthetic problem then functional, but, anyway I would like to have my series leveled. The manufacturer is TIC or Ti Console the Load Level B with 3 leafs at rear, the last leaf is a floating one. I know that this's common to other LR with the same setup.

Roll Centre, this is a very difficult topic even for people with vehicle dynamics back ground. There two ways of identify the RC location, the geometrical and force definition. The SAE definition is inline with the force definition, and where the vehicle dynamics guys are more familiar. The geometrical is more easy to obtain in independent suspension like double-wishbone or SLA (short long arm as the Americans use to name it). The RC location is important for two important reasons: define the Roll Axis; define the arm between this axis and vehicle CG. There are other characteristics to be taken in account in a suspension definition and the roll centre is only one of multiple points. The RC is only defined by one axle, and depending on the vehicle this should be lower or higher, depending on the other(s) axle(s) RC location. The RC can be in a static position of the vehicle defined by physical point or not, but in the most of the times isn't common to find the RC specific joint. The Panhard link isn't the best arm configuration for a suspension, but sometimes is the only one possible. This specially makes sense in front axle where the available space is limited with engine other components such as propeller shafts. Other solutions of configurations are more interesting like the 4-link, link the rear suspension of the RRC, Defender & Discos. The A-frame is a special case of 4-link where the two top arms connect in the same point. Ideally, the front should have a similar solution, w or wo A-frame or two link instead. But isn,t easy. The suspension is tricky to be define, and in the most of cases, isn't the ideal one but the better possible solution.

Yes, in both axles the height is bigger, but much more on the rear. just for info: "88" (SWB) & 109 (LWB), Load level B, suited for serious off-road without compromising load capacity"

Hi, I have the parabolic kit and it works very well. I bought the Load level B and my LR has a Soft canvas. For that the rear looks a higher and the rear wheels are moved forward thanks to that. Since I have both, the soft and hard top, do you can tell any simple trick to make it more level when it goes with the soft one? It's normal to have this, at least I found more series with this suspension with the same problem...

Hi, I have the same problem, but I would like to know how I can find the best ratio. Can you explain how to do it? Data: S3 Speedmoter from a 109, LT 230 from a discovery Diff: 3.54 Tyres: 7.50 Which ratio fits the better? Thanks

this item is really interesting or not? what is your opinion? cheers

Hi, thanks for the info, very interesting indeed. the biggest doubt was the front axle, but the info you told me about the rear is welcome as wll. thanks