Daan
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Posts posted by Daan
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Been reading this and so far not replyd. Its a bit of flying pig in my mind to think international events while spending £750 on your drivetrain. Given the attrition rate of the events you mention being about 50%, the answer is basically there. Cheap is possible, but I would think more about practical. A landrover engine might break, however any event you enter will have other landrovers about, which means spares. Getting spares for a Lexus engine? I mean where would you go for a lexus headgasket in the UK for example, let alone in Russia.
Power, more power is nice, but less reliable in terms of your mechanicals, cooling more critical etcetra. Usually your gearbox is going to cost as much as the engine, if not more. I personally didnt find my TDI lacking power, but other factors slowing me down. So if I were to go for a big power increase, I would also need a fast ratio steering box, and some groovy shocks before it is useable.
An entry fee to Ladoga is about as much as your drivetrain budget, the ferries the same (if your not trailering). So I would think it would make sense to sort out what you have and have a go with that to see what its like and then decide on your new build spec.
Just being realistic. A realist is an optimist with experience......
Daan
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I have doubts whether both magazines are still trading in a years time, the way this is going.
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Lee/ralph, are these hinge made out of aly? Ifso, could you take the weight of one?
Daan
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Bangers and such a like run on the principle of the roll protection recomended type route ish. I think that as long as the regs arn't saying thet cages are manditory we shouldn't have a problem. but if the rules state that cages are manditory then yes I think we should be looking at msa scrutineers.
I dont think a bangerrace is actually timed, it is the last man running isn't it?
On most other types of motorsport, like rally and racing for example it is MSA. This does not apply to one make series for some strange reason.
I am still not aware what the big problem is with MSA regs: they are not hard or expensive to achieve, its just that people dont want to be tied to rules and invent there own ideas, such as bend backstays.
most mainhoops used in challenge trucks are ok, so its not a big job to update the backstays to comply. And to rob butler specifically: you are building a new car, so the opportunity is there to comply. Instead you are questioning the rules, which have been there for ages. Seems all a bit wasted effort in my mind.
Daan
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Comp Safari is totally different to what they are trying to do with XTC, there aren't rock piles, vertical faces, fallen trees and stuff like that across a whole comp safari course... But that is what makes it such an awesome concept, and so competitive, making for a great spectator sport also...
It'd be awesome to see the UK producing US style Rock Racers for this type of thing... because in my opinion, they are the type of vehicle that would be perfect for this format...
Rob
I understand all that, but are you telling me that any old cage is accepted in us style rock racing? I doubt it very much.
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I find the XTC thing really funny. People do challenges but want to go fast. The obvious answer is to go comp safari, but your car needs to be MSA spec, which is dificult (although I have read the regs, and its not that difficult, nor expensive). So they think go XTC, but since it is a speed event, you need your car to be MSA spec. So noone enters. Then we talk, and talk more. we tried inventing different names for it, but insurance says: it is a speed event, you need MSA spec. So unless people change and read the book BEFORE they build a roll cage, nothing will change. More to the point, if people do start reading rules, they might decide that comp safari is a much better bet, because you can just drive fast, without worrying about stopping for an efing punch, waiting for the co driver to stamp the card and get back in the car to do another 50 m of driving fast.
My 2p, from a complete outsider and XTC novice.
Daan
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Les
Does anybody now how to make a deal with him ?
Cheers
Morten
Even my dutch mate didn't manage.
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It broke on one of the top leg fixings, were a bush is welded straight to the tube.
Pic with arrow:
If yours is ok, I dont think its a problem, but I thought I mention it for the safety of our members.
I have a mental block whenever I see one of these, and voted to never touch one again.
I use 6 ton fixed axlestands at home or a spare wheel in the field.
Daan
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Besides a bottle jack you also need a folding axle stand and two pieces of ply as load spreading plates. USE them!
Just read this tread. I would like to make one comment on that axle stand. It is cheap and nasty, and the same as one of my dutch mates used to work on his Pug 205. Exept when he lowered the car on the stand, it collapsed due to non existant welding.
So, my advise is to chuck it and disable so no one can ever use it again, or at least check the welds. No good saying it is only a safety precuation, because it is no good to carry a landrover when you really need it IMO.
Daan
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I got them from the chap on ebay, good service. 37s is aking a lot, even from upgraded shafts.
Mine will be up for sale shortly, once the landrover returns (35x13.5 on john sales beadlocks).
Sorry for the blatant plug
Daan
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Yawn!!
Trev Milner was running those 15years ago
But did he get it to work? He is not running it now is he?
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Well it looks the part, but what does it fit to at the front.. How does your anti tramp bar allow the axel to move backwards?
It looks to me that it will work well while the springs are not compressed, but when you want the springs to flex, you'll be forcing the axel to rotate on its springs seats putting a great deal of tension on the 'anti wrap' bar and the mountings, which will effectivly stop the suspension from working beyond a curtain point, and will strain everything.
When the spring is compressed, the spring center bolts - to spring eye distances increases and decrease, aswell as the fact that the axel moves backwards in an arc around the spring shackles as the springs compress.. The only fixed point is the front spring hanger eyes. The axel can still move away from these when the springs flatten.
None of the anti wrap bars Ive seen on here allow for this movement and so will cause a bigger problem than the original axel tramp they were trying to cure.. Perhaps if you had a damped link between the top of the axel and the front or rear spring eye you could allow all the movement required and dampen the effect of axel tramp..
If you look at whats available for the Custom/Drag racing cars, where axel Tramp is a problem with leaf springs, you may find an off-the-shelf idea to buy or copy.
Because there are many variable changes in geometry with leaf sprung set up, making a fixed anti tramp bar will need careful thought.. Remember Simplicity is still the ultimate sophistication..!
Sorens set up is exactly what it needs, the link moves the axle backward on bump due to the angle it has with the chassis. Whether it is the same amount is not clear, but you wont get it perfect, due to as you say, the leafspring being a flexible mount. But at the same time, because it is a flexible spring mount, it doesn't have to be perfect.
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Still, I think the only claimed pulling power which is acurate is the claimed pulling power of the PTO winch. And also the time it will do it for.
ie. : pull houses down, all day for 40 years.
So to come back to your question which is best, I know what works for me.
My winch is rated 8000 pounds at 100ft/minute. And no dissapointments so far. I do the pepsi test with your 12000lbs leccy winch any day.
Daan
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Bearmach is the only aftermarket supplier that can offer a reasonable quality replacement product.
Todd.
Apart from the pattern waterpump they send me which lasted 1 day. When I phoned them about it, there reply was: oh, we heard that one before, we will send you a proper one.
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the jack up method and see which turns does not work, you can turn either side because there is no drive at all. You potentially have done a diff, but if it is a shaft or a CV, there is a way to find out which side: Jack up the lh wheel, and remove the axle breather pipe. Get a screw driver and stick it through the hole. Get a helper to turn the LH wheel while you push the screwdriver down on the shaft. If the shaft moves the same direction as the wheel, the LH side is ok. If nothing happens, usualy a cv is gone on the lh side.
Daan
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It is common practice in Rally, so you can change a caliper in not time at all, without bleading if youre in a panic. I wouldnt recommend them for your application though.
Daan
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Interesting. Also saw this on the same you tube page.
Scarry!
Daan
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The other solution is to get the right alternator, rather than bodge the one on which you happened to have in your shed. Complete madness I know...
daan
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I cant believe people are so afraid, and get themselves into all this trouble, when the test is such a minor thing. If you dont pass that, the car shouldn't be anywere near a road.
Daan
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Well, I asked the SVA man, and his answer was that if it is DOT approved, you are allowed to run them.
Daan
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2 off in xxl please
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Hmm, my mobile phone battery is getting a bit flat. Do I need a 3 phase welder or will single phase do it?
Recovery Points - Anyone ever seen / know these ?
in International Forum
Posted
My view is a definate nono, having codriven a car with these, they are a major PITFA. Imagine your car in a weird position on a slippery hill, and your codriver hanging onto a tree to try to connect the winch cable to your swively hook: rather than just hook the cable on with one hand, like you normally would, you need 2 hands. So your codriver is hanging on to the tree with one hand, while hooking on with his 2 other hands. It doesn't happen bascially.
Daan