Daan
-
Posts
4,949 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
46
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Gallery
Blogs
Posts posted by Daan
-
-
Either that or come home take out break down cover and go back a week later then use the cover!!
Paul
Interesting solution, but not neccesarrily a good idea if you spread the word on the internet that you are broken down already
Daan
-
whats wrong with that?
-
Certainly my losses dropped significasntly just by changing the LT77 oil to SMX and the transfer / axle oils to a EP fully synthetic multigrade.
Would you care to share with us how significant?
-
Love this ad on ebay by the way for a set g axles
RR
QUOTE: Could also be used for anchoring a boat or weighing down bodies when disposing of them offshore
A more general comment when it comes to the weight of them.....
-
One more point about fitting and pumping up: if you are worried about the tyre coming off at low pressure, or the wheel spinning in the tyre: dont use any soap while fitting. I have always done without, which will reduce the tendency to come off/spin. I never had problems for the bead to seat.
Dan
-
The only time I have the temperature going beyond halfway is on the motorway at 70 mph. If everything is ok, offroad driving shouldn't be a problem even if the viscous is a bit dodgy. It doesn't emit a lot of heat at low rpm, but does at high rpm. I recently spend quite a bit of time sealing the radiator to the grille panel, to make sure all the incoming air will go through the radiator, rather than around it. This solved the motorway driving issue as well.
Daan
-
It all depends how carp the design of the snorkel is, good to see someone is giving some facts to back this up. I saw a lot of awfull contraptions (also offered for sale), with corrugated hose, tight bends and too small diameters.
Daan
-
will this work ok with the 11" brakes allround ???
I would have thought this would seriously overbrake the rear which is dangerous.
Daan
-
It would be mint for ladoga though, you do some 50-60mph tracks and then hit a big swamp, where you realy need about 2 psi or so. This is the only event where I have seen this in use and where I would consider it seriously, if the option is there. here, airing down will lose you stage time, so it would give you a big advantage. On a typical 1 day quarry event in the uk, it would not make a great difference, although you could use it to change from low pressure to very low pressure for swampy bits, and maybe pump up fully for side slopes.
Daan
-
I think there is a market for this, but as has been said, not a very big market.
Few people bother airing down in the first place, and the people that do are potentially challenge comp vehicles. There are 2 problems with this group: first of all, they all come to events on a trailer, arrive and leave aired down anyway. Secondly, there is an upcoming trend to discard landrover axles for something stronger, meaning your not selling to them.
It is worth having, but not a must I think, and I would therefore be interested at, say 100 pounds per corner. The problem is that to make full use of the system, you would need a decent set of beadlocks and the result is you end up spending well over a grand by the time you added a large airpump, fittings etcetra. So a total outlay of 400 pounds, for four seal units (I suppose you would replace the oilseal for this unit). Not a lot of money, so it all depends for what price you can produce them. Maybe the army is interested, which could make the batches bigger, and therefore cheaper.
Daan
-
Hi lift jack and some big leavers and use your motor always works for me
x2
No point buying tools if you can do it with what you have. Also works on route.
-
The difference is in the beads; there is a rolled bead in the rim where the tyre bead fits over with a light press fit to make the tyre seal to the rim. So you wouldn't be able to pump up the tyre on a tube rim.
Still, In my opinion, the best setup is to have tubes combined with a tubeless rim (unless you have beadlocks), to make sure the tyre stays on with low pressures. I have run mud terrrains for 10 years with tubes, so it shouldn't be a problem. Just make sure the stickers inside the tyre are removed and you run Michelin tubes (or good quality ones at least).
Daan
-
Well, 2 pages of opinions for a simple towing hook! I used to have a towbar for this, but then replaced it for a pin style thingy, because the tow rope could come off and Catapult to the other car. I cant see the towbar ball thing ever breaking, but the slipping off problem is major problem for me.
I dont think the lift eyes are particularly good myself, the working load is for a straight pull, so , if the pull is sideways, its nowhere near as strong.
A closed loop works (i have these welded on the front), but the problem with these is that you need a shackle to connect your rope. Especially with events, when someone is stuck and already has their towrope layed out, it only takes 2 seconds to hook on and give him/her a pull with the pin type connection and carry on.
The Nato hook does the same thing, but have you tried lifting them off the ground? They are just to heavy for what we are trying to do.
Daan
-
It is a 5 Main bearing. I guess i will just have to give it a go.
Yes, let us know how you get on.
Daan
-
As the title says, will a 2.25 diesels flywheel housing fit a 300tdi?
Not if it is the old 3 bearing engine (green block). If it is the 5 bearing block (brown) it might fit. The difference is in the crank seal. The later TDI engines have a seal on the flywheel fitting flange, where as the early 3 bearing blocks have the seal sealing the crankjournal.
I used a 2.5 TD flywheel housing to fit my 300 tdi, but any 2.5 engine flywheel housing is ok I think.
daan
-
It may be worth drilling them out to the larger size, so that if you have a puncture in the field and decide to fit a tube, you dont have to spend the best part of an hour with a round file to make it fit. Ask me how I know...
Daan
-
Are we sure the £450 is for the commercial IVA test? I remember doing it when it was still called the SVA, costing about £63 I think.
I am pretty certain that the moment The DVLA decides it needs an IVA test, they will allocate a Q-number.
This might be of help:
http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=31872&view=&hl=sva test&fromsearch=1
Daan
-
very nice need the 6 numbers this weekend now
People seem to think they are unobtanium, but the kit sells for 6K. Not pocketmoney for most, but still doable I think. I am not a fan though, but anyway.
daan
-
Unless you trailer to events and not drive it on the road, you need an IVA (new type of SVA). However, Having done one myself, it really isnt that hard. I would like to go as far as saying that if you dont pass that, your car shouldn't be anywhere near a road.
The Paperwork is by far the hardest part.
Daan
-
Interesting project, Simon. Does this mean you are exempted from road tax?
Daan
-
I used to have 2 pieces of 16" length angle iron with a 16 mm hole drilled in the middle. When you remove the front wheels, you can bolt these to the hubs with one wheel nut. Now measure length in front and behind the axle- and that is your tracking. I always set the tracking parralel, and that worked well. I since used the angle irons for something else
. So last time I had to set it -The night before setting off to russia at about half 1 midnight- I just had the front wheels of and just g-clamped 2 pieces of box section to the brake disks. Since I run parallel, all you need to do is make sure that the two box sections are parallel. The longer they are, the more acurate it is. Proper redneck, but very effective.Daan
-
I am with john on the survivability thing. One more important point I would like to add to this: Bumpstarting. If your starter is toast, your stranded with an auto. With manual, you ask a friendly person to push/towstart it and of you go.
Another one is that you loose a lot of power with auto and that is not something most of us have enough of.
Daan
-
Is there any choice in ratios? 4.1 is pretty high for anything bigger than 35".
Daan
-
I used a modern defender pedal setup, with the pedal, which normally is in a Z-shape straigthened out. This moved the whole assy to the right, while the pedal pad stayed in the same pos (its a LHD).
Another problem you will find is brake balance: on a SWB you will need to change the brake bias. A 90 normally has a brake limiter valve in the rear brake line. I did not fit this, but fitted very early 110 Calipers, which have about 25% larger area. However, my car still failed the SVA test with this setup, as it was overbraked at the back. This was solved with an adjustable brake bias valve.
Daan
. So last time I had to set it -The night before setting off to russia at about half 1 midnight- I just had the front wheels of and just g-clamped 2 pieces of box section to the brake disks. Since I run parallel, all you need to do is make sure that the two box sections are parallel. The longer they are, the more acurate it is. Proper redneck, but very effective.
Me 'new' Mk2 Front Winch Bumper
in Tools and Fabrication
Posted
lumps of off cut plate etc, a lathe and a welder / plasma, and an Ancient 1950s Mill, as Daan would say
I have 'CNC v1' (Cardboard Aided Design
)... I'd love more kit but it just can't ..be for all the normal reasons 
Damn, that sounds like adream workshop to me, mcu more than what I have
20mm Steel bar was bent into 2x D loops,
Plates out of 6mm were shaped and welded into the outersides
I hope you realize that you are welding to some 2 mm wall box section...
only other comment is that you can loose the jack brackets for a bit more approach, in favour of some holes in the bumper to jack off instead. The jack brackets accounted for 5 kg weightsaving when I did my chassis.
Daan