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Posts posted by Daan
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There is no reason you cant run a tdi with an lt77 in a swb. THis is what I run, its the defender version of the LT77S (shortest bellhouse), 88" rr propshaft and coil axles. I moved the grille forward by 20 mm, but this is only because mine is LHD with a pas box. if you are RHD, or use the series steering, it will fit I reckon. The only difference on mine, compared to standard series3, is that the actual wheelbase measures 89".
Pic:
Intercooler and Pas box fighting for space:
Daan
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Well things are still not good.
10k mile 2.8tgv auto
Following on from these posts latest pulleys and Heavy Smoking
i now have a belt thats doesnt run off the front, its has the lastest tensioner and idler.
Symptons are black smoke on startup and black smoke accelerating no load.
Timing has been setup with crank woodruff key vertical (lined up with arrow on casting), correct timing pin in the FIP.
With the belt fitted the CAM is slightly anticlockwise of the mark on the casing (it lines up with the shoulder of the sprocket tooth that the mark is on) rather than the high point of the sprocket tooth ie - very close but not quite right.
FIP timing has been set so the pin is free to come out when crank pulley/woodruff key is vertical.
in other words i believe all set as it should be less the CAM which is slightly out anticlockwise. You cant correct the cam as its position is determined by the toothed belt in relation to the crank. the cam sprocket is not slotted so once the belt is on with tension in it you cant alter the cam to crank relationship. you can opnly alter pump to cam/crank relationship.
We have tried the FIP at all permutations of its setting - ie pump tight against the pin clockwise and anticlockwise and intervals inbetween,
I have had several 'fresh sets of eyes' look at the problem as am still not getting anywhere.
So anyone have any other ideas that could be tried?
i have followed the procedure of a belt change as per haynes.
I have been there myself, and it is a bit confusing. When you say woodruff key vertical, is it exactly vertical, because it can be hard to determine. Not sure what is the right procedure here, but I put a small level on it and it was easy a few degrees out from what I thought was reasonable. also, when rotating the pump and the cam, they have a position where they are in rest, which is not quite were the timingmarks are. Anyway, I am not solving your problem here.
I would move it a teeth and see what happens. It does actually run fine with the cover off, so you can faff with it for a bit without doing to much work.
Daan
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So where would I technically stand with my SVA'd Ibex that does not have a published top speed, which are all kit built with differing engine/gearbox combos.
I do not actually have a clue what the top speed would be!
Mark.
I solved that by filling in the form, where you have to claim the topspeed of your vehicle. I claimed 70 MPH, which would allow you to run most tyres, and not miles beside the truth, or faster than I normally drive the thing anyway.
Daan
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Interesting question. I can see the argument of saying that ECU control will always be superior to mechanical. What would be good though, for ultimate survival, that if the electronics let you down, that you could do something ugly that allows you to continue no matter what. Like removing the plunger in a TDI if your electrics are flat. It is a big psychological back up to know what to do if all else fails, you always can drive home. (Well, unless you throw a bigend like I did
=
On a slightly different angle, there was a question recently about megasquirting a TD5, which would be a good option, at least you have a bit more of an understanding whats going on. Anyone tried this?
Daan
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I did ask this very question to my SVA tester, the answer was either DOT or e-marked is acceptable.
Daan
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Not For a while I am afraid. Speaking of which, how is the DVD coming along?
Daan
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just incase it might interest you,
after alot of head scratching and cups of tea ive started on converting the axles to land rover stud pattern
tonights progress has seen me trial fitting a land rover front hub to the toyota stub axle, after a hell of alot of turning in the lathe and milling here and there
success
just got to sort the brake side of it out then make a boss up for the drive member and thats the front sorted
then for the back im starting from scratch with a huge block of metal to make my own hubs
i foresee alot of late nights coming my way
I hate to be negative or state the obvious, but: have you considered a set of wheels that fit? I reckon there is lots of choices in 6 stud. Or is it interchangeability your after?
Daan
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the pattern was altered to beef up the strengthening ribs from 15 to 40mm
the material was changed to 500/7 cast iron, approx double the strength,
Are you sure you cant make the setup work with an aluminium casting? I though a big advantage of your setup is that you also shed quite a bit of weight, which would no longer be the case. Spidertrax manage ok with an aluminium housing.
Daan
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I cant believe anyone would seriously suggesting removing the turbo. It means removing all the advantages of the more modern TDI engine. Of course, it is direct injection as opposed to indirect injection, but it is about 20% loss in compression ratio compared to the old Landrover diesel, which is the most important parameter for efficiency.
It is the easy way out of a conversion, but it is a desperate measure. If your worried about your gearbox, but do the conversion properly and wind the pump down a few turns and you have a good setup.
Daan
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I think it could work well, quite a few major manufacturers are going for 2 stage turbocharging. It certainly would work better than replacing the turbo for a bigger one.
Daan
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I reckon a td5 axle with the force 9 diff will be a good option.
Daan
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I changed my clutch last april for the 130 version with rakeway bearing (300 TDI). The old one looked like new, I couldn't measure a difference in thickness between new and old.
I reckon it is down to drive style and tune of engine (which is bog standard in mine). I do not remember ever slipping my clutch, and this also got something to do with what ratios you run (4.75 on mine) and how much weight you are moving.
Still, as mentioned the pedal adjustment is important as well.
Daan
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Love the double punch card, forget GPS, leave it for the forrests of Russia etc,
Maybe you should try some GPS for a change?
Like it a lot myself.
Daan
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I can vote for Saleys wheels: I used them for Ladoga, and they worked very well.
Daan
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Will Davenhill's LWT jumps to mind, I always liked it a lot
Its for sale I believe.
Daan
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I reckon, the fact that you galvanised the metal parts, virtually solved the problems. I mean whenever you remove the galvanised body capping from your body, the metal undeneath is usually in mint condition. For this reason, When I rebuilt mine on a galvanised chassis, I did nothing.
Daan
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What a ridiculous idea!
Daan
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To be honest, They have been reasonable to me so far, as oposed to Peter Best, whose practices are near criminal.
I doubt any insurer is keen to give money back, AF maybe bad but they are all as bad as each other I reckon (exept Peter
Best of course).
I ussually deal with it by putting a date in my agenda about 2 months before renewal next time and than start searching for new options. This avoids them taking your money before you realize its too late. Oh, and if you have direct debit, cancel it as well.
Daan
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Ok, so here goes. The first thing I saw was steves car undergoing some running repair due to a broken propshaft. He got it fixed so I got a few pictures of him, but it didn't last long unfortunately. The event looked pretty well organized with a burger van and a bouncy castle, making it a family event.
Engineering in conference:
Steve giving it some:
Plenty of airborne stuff:
A sense of humour:
Entertaing to watch and good to meet another local forum member.
Daan
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I went along, and it proved very entertaining!
I took a load of pictures, but image cave is having trouble at the moment, so will post up later.
Daan
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It's called choose your cake and eat it. It sounds sensible, but this comes from the man whose 1 year build turned into 4 years of graft
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Seeing how far you got with the install of your auto, it looks like there is no way back now. Unless the manual is lying around, a straight swap, and I convinced you manual is the way to go.
Not really helping you am I?
Daan
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Ok chaps, this thread has run its course and goes round loops that have been done to death. Boothy, your comment about SVA left for the kids is very sad, since you are the one thats throwing the teddys here. I would advise you to just look at facts and realize that the world doesn't revolve around you: the club sets a rule and you obey to it or dont compete. End of story, no need for 4 pages of waffling about who is right.
End of story and thread locked.
Daan
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Well i'm of tomorrow night (flying at 01.30 Tuesday
) to be part of this year Borneo Safari challange
i'm going to be with the recovery team following the event! this is soi can see how the event run's ready for when i take my car out next year! But this morning i got an e:mail saying that one of the recovery drivers has had to pull out and i now get his disco for myself! with one of the lad's from the local garage as my helper
So while your all working over the next few day's i'll be in the rain forest
the comp starts on the saturday 24th and will finish on saturday 31st. I'll try and post up when i can
Ok, have fun, let us know what this event is like, there is very little information on it.
daan
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I probably come and have a look, only about 12 miles away.
Daan
Is it worth the money?
in International Forum
Posted
Thats a lot of dosh to spend on an engine which will be at least 5 years old by now. If you like more power and want to spend that kind of dosh, I would save up a bit longer and get the TGV.
Daan