Daan
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Posts posted by Daan
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I don't think our events would be your cup of tea anyway.
But I would consider it if the ruling was different.
Happy new year to you too!
daan
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I had a look at the regulations, and I am stumped to see that the most important parameter of an offroad vehicle, tyre size is not part of the regulations. I would think you could drop all these rules and set a max tyresize for all classes and youre done.
I would suggest the following:
Class 1 33 inch, no difflocks, standard layout(for newcomers)
class 2 35 inch, front steer only (because that is what most people run)
Class 3 40 inch, open (to not make the field to diverse and avoid to deep ruts for the lower classes)
The rest follows from there automatically. You could run hydrosteer in class 2, but there is little point if you only run 35s, so that would level it of nicely.
The windscreen rule, sory but how is a windscreen make you more or les competitive? When it rains maybe...
The only event I have seen were a class system actually works is Ladoga. As you might have guesed, the deciding factor is tyre size, because that is the most important. They also have a ruling for portals, the max tyresize is around 2 inch smaller for these. I think that is a fair way which keeps it interesting for everyone. tyre sizes are measured horizontaly with a caliper, the car fully laden, and the tyres inflated to 2 bar.
The weighing factors on result make very little sense imo. Imagine a grid with F1 cars and f3 cars together. You race, the f1 car wins, the fastest f3 comes fourth, but wins caus his weighing factor is favourable. This creates a championship which is not believable for the public or the competitiors, so a non starter in my opinion.
The way things are at the moment, I have no interest in entering, simply because I could end up competing against someone with 44 inch tyres in my class.
Daan
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I thought the bit were jeremy had to go back to get his mobile phone, which turned out to be 10 metres away funny. Sounds about right about the speed you go at.
I did wonder about the rollcage thing, they werent fitted while traversing the most dangerous roads... Maybe a rollcage isnt any help when you drop down those cliffs.
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Looks fun.
Mike's Tomcat is always a favourite of mine.
Daan
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I saw a thread on another forum recently and it made me wondering about Intercooler cooling.
Basically, if the standard Viscous fan is removed, that draws air through the Radiator and I/C, to save the power taken up to drive the fan, would the lack of air being pulled through the I/C and the reduced cooling be self defeating in the HP stakes?
I doubt it. I never understood anyone who would fit an electric fan to an intercooled off road vehicle. It is the only way I can see to make any use of the intercooler at low speeds. Some challengetrucks now remove the I/C altogether, claiming that there is less lag. Probably true, but if there was an electric fan in the first place, there wasn't much point having it anyway.
I just keep things simple, have the original viscous and intercooler, and make sure it is all sealed wel, so the airflow will go through intercooler and rad.
Daan
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things can only get better...
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I personally hate the idea of a removable link, why not invent a system that just works on and off road? The filthy boy project had a hydro assist system previously, but better engineered than most. I personally see no reason why hydro assist cant work, its just that they are usually built with mismatched components, hydro valves that cant cope, and pumps that havent got enough flow.
I say just do a better job than what most others do and it should work fine. After all, the comp safari boys were having similar problems to us, but they now have solutions with a mechanical link that work.
daan
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I wish everyone was this honest, I lost count of the amount of shackels, strops and other stuf I lost over the years.
daan
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Ok, thanks for that. If you can achieve 8hp, that is a very worthwile improvement for a very simple mod.
Daan
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I guess Molyslip doesn’t really come under the snake oil label as MoS2 is a known and well documented inorganic compound that comes from the mineral molybdenite. Its lubricant properties are well documented and conclusively scientifically proven over many years.
I think the question is more along the lines of ‘is it beneficial in this application’ …….. from my perspective that answer is probably no and I would be inclined to use a good quality fully synthetic oil.
However, we can’t knock MoS2 (Molybdenum disulfide) as this is used widely in CV / bearing grease and has stood the test of time ……… also it is used in many OEM grease applications.
Here is an extract concerning MoS2 as a lubricant………………
“MoS2 with particle sizes in the range of 1-100 µm is a common dry lubricant. Few alternatives exist that can confer the high lubricate and stability up to 350 °C in oxidizing environments. Sliding friction tests of MoS2 using a pin on disc tester at low loads (0.1-2 N) give friction coefficient values of <0.1.[5][6]
Molybdenum disulfide is often a component of blends and composites where low friction is sought. A variety of oils and greases are used, because they retain their lubricity even in cases of almost complete oil loss, thus finding a use in critical applications such as aircraft engines. When added to plastics, MoS2 forms a composite with improved strength as well as reduced friction. Polymers that have been filled with MoS2 include nylon (with the trade name Nylatron), Teflon, and Vespel. Self-lubricating composite coatings for high-temperature applications have been developed consisting of molybdenum disulfide and titanium nitride by chemical vapor deposition.”
Like Zoltan I also used it when racing Mini’s in the early 70’s as in this application the engine oil is shared with the G/box and that caused all sorts of issues, but MoS2 was a way forward and solved many of the problems. However, oils have come a long way since then and maybe it is not required in the oil lubricant environment, but this does not detract its proven usefulness in grease lubricant applications.
Ok Ian, thanks for this amazingly detailed reply. I asked you another question, some time ago, after you stated that power output of your truck was vastly improved after replacing the oils for synthetic oils. I would like to know how much, in a clearly understandble fashion, like swap to oil X in the diff gives Y increase of power, please
.Cheers, Daan
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Technically it would need it, I reckon.
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I have been looking at electric for quite some time. One of the things I realized was that Building a proper Ev means ditching your existing car and start from scratch. It is the only way to solve packaging and weight problems. The energy density is compared to petrol is about 1:100, so for 1 kg of petrol, you need 100 kg of battery. Of course, the set up is much more efficient, so by the time it all is up and running, this ratio is about 1:30. So there is your biggest problem. You need a massive amount of space and loadcapacity. The last thing I would use is a Landrover. All available electric cars at the moment are small, simple and light cars and still with very little range. It is a shame they arent really succesfull. Even the NICE car company (nice for no internal combustion engine) in London went bust twice I think. I mean the one place where I think an electric car would work is in london.
For anyone interested in electric cars, something to put on your christmas lists is a dvd called 'who killed the electric car'.
We are miles away from an electric offroader unfortunately...
Daan
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I deleted a few, there are 5 pages of drivel going on and trying to get information on this event means wading through tons of plop which add nothing to the cause.
That's why.
Daan
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I doubt the IVA will flag it up, I presume it is a commercial one? Even so, the obsruction of the doesnt look a worry to me. S3 screens are ok, which have a much smaller field of vision.
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This Is what I carry to events:
http://www.drsfostersmith.com/images/Categoryimages/normal/p-28959-38346-bucket.jpg
Daan
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I dont understand why we havent seen any manufacturers offering front radius arms that dont have a standard bush, but instead use heim joints in place of the original 4 bushes?
They offer 20degree of movement, which is substantially more than you will get in compressing a bush, yet offers zero movement fore and aft and keeps all mounting points the same for identical road handling. Wuldnt this go along way to solving the problem of bush bind in the front arms?
If you would put a heim instead of the rubber bush, you would end up with absolutely no flex at all. The problem is that if your left hand radius arm moves up, and the rh moves down, it tries to compress the bushes vertically, and the heim is solid in that direction. You could put a heim on the chassis end which helps a bit, but doesnt solve the main problem, which is at the axle end.
Daan
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I carry a metre of pipe with unions flared on both ends ready to go. This fits on every corner, you might have to loose a bit of length by tywrapping it to something.
I also have some female fittings, that I could attempt to flare on if the line to the rear flexi goes, but there is very little chance of that happening. Plus some spare flexis and a bleednipple as mentioned before.
Daan
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Excellent to see you on here. And thanks again for your help.
landy is a sweathart name for a Landrover
Daan
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Ladoga Trophy 2009 DVD has been out few months!!!! It's reasonable priced 15e/each. I have now run out of it, but I can get it from the St.Petersburg club. How many wants it?
Ladoga english version of regulations is out. Biggest changes
- it's allowed to tow or use trailer between the Special Stages
- if you do registration during period 1 or 2, you can pay 50% for the total fee and rest 50% 1st of March.
BR,
Ari
Are, Are you the guy who arranged the insurance?
Oh, Am I featured on the DVD? (sand coloured series landy)
Daan
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In my very humble opinion, I reckon that removing the thermostat will provide a choice to the waterflow, through the rad or recirculating through the engine (as if the thermostat were closed), so the waterflow will choose the easyest way, with overheating as a result.
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....Nothing.....
The head torch is the one I carry everywhere. It works independant from the car electrics (which I always assume to be disposable) and you have your hands free to do whatever.
Oh, is this to go with your headlining? Something else I havent got...
Daan
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I used a set of Mudzilla's in the size 35 x 13.5 x 15 to do Ladoga, and I have to say, I was very impressed. Obviously they arent as good as a bogger or simex in the foresttracks, but they are not far off. And in swamps, I was stunned as to what it was capable to do. Despite the relatively closed thread, because of the big V shape, they self clean amazingly well without cutting up the ground too much.
Another thing going for these, it is also the tyre (or at least the mickey thompson what it is a copy of) of choice to do the outback challenge (mainly desert).
So, it is a very good all round tyre that works well in almost every situation.
I would recommend them, or the mickey thomson, if you can spend a bit more.
Daan
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Hi,
currently putting a 300tdi into my range chassis, has anyone got one of the jigs that are about to make sure you weld engine brackets in the correct place.
Like this one here
save a few penies if i could borrow one for a week or two.
James
I didnt even know such thing existed. I would just put the engine in place with mounts, tack the mounts on, remove the engine again and weld properly.
Challenge events and regulations
in Competing in Land Rovers
Posted
(How many people actualy run 33" tyres, most entry level competetors will have somthing like a 35" simex
Most people that have a basic car, say greenlane spec would have that tyre size. Whether you want to attract these people, is up to the organizer, but it would attract many people if the rules were like this.
(this is for fun, no big sponsers
Considering the prize of a lot of cars now going into tens of thousands of pounds, people have mobile workshops and go and do events every other weekend, I unfortunately have to say that that statement is B0ll0cks.
You could argue whether my suggested tyre sizes are what people want, and this we can argue, but I would have thought that both Neil and Carl do agree with me that tyre size are very important for the endresult, and my point is that the rules never mention a tyresize. Not trying to offend anyone.
Daan