Daan
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Posts posted by Daan
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I would not remove oilcooling from a turbocharged engine myself; that turbo relys on it!
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Hi James, DONT BUY a Peugeot 406. Looks like it ticks all of your boxes on paper, but ours is in it's thrid phase of have mystrious faults that cost a huge amount of money. 30K and 2 years, it's had:
- Engine replacement due to conrod failure
- A repeated mis fire
- a new alternator
- a failed injector
- an injector needing re-seating
oh, and a new ECU, new BIS (body ECU) and new keys.
Nice....
I would like to go against that by 180 degrees: my 406 HDI is 50 mpg every time, you cant fault them, mine has 130000 miles and not one part failing to date. I agree on skodas being good cars (had one myself as a company car when I worked for them), but value for money secondhand I found very hard to beat a diesel peugeot full stop.
daan
- Engine replacement due to conrod failure
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You didn't want to fit steering column controls and put it through as a disabled vehicle then?
This has in fact happened for quite some time as an SVA fix for rallycars(no joke). Until the Vosa watched a rallyvideo and didnt see any disabled drivers and they fixed that hole in the rules.
Daan
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It's got a cable adapter, you can use a magnet and reed switch or a VR or hall pickup, or a speed transducer from an LT230, or...
Use the GPS signal, which then also controlls traction control?
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You could just ring round local workshops, garages, engineering outfits...
Or just turn up and say you need a job. Thats how I got my first work experience (and later a job) at Safety Devices.
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Nice wheels Nigel, but we need more info over the pennys! I am a bit surprised about you popping inner tubes, I ran 35" simex with thick tubes on modular rims since 2003, lowering pressures to as low as 12 PSI and no problems myself. I doubt you are putting more torque through the system, I run 4.75 diffs and have twisted a heavy duty shaft to 180° plastic deformation (as you saw) So I dont think exess torque is a problem because of your engine.
When you say road legal, are these wheels DOT approved? In which case I doubt that very much myself. The legality thing is a bit of a minefield and, as mentioned before, is open to interpretation. Most people in an official capacity dont actually know what a beadlock is. But I think the rules are pretty much clear cut: tyres need e-mark and wheels need DOT approval.
Oh, and how much?
Daan
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I find the aero quite interesting myself. I spent one year designing truckfairings on trucks for M&S, and we took a Daf 75truck to the windtunnel. There are a few things that might be interesting for us: the a pillar deflectors work well for keeping airflow attached to the side of the vehicle, which reduces drag (and keep windows kleen). a flat floor helps reduces drag as well. Interestingly, the drag caused at the back of a truck is about the same as the drag caused at the front. You can reduce the drag at the back by having the rr wall recessed into the sidewalls. So the sidewalls are longer than the vehicle if you like.
I saw a defender 110 in Paris dakar that had the back end shortened for this reason, but the sidewalls were kept standard length and sloped inboard. It also had the roofline lowered and the area were normally the flaps are was rounded off.
To come back to the original posters question: I think if you measure the consumption penalty due to the roofrack, you will remove it if you dont need it!
daan
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Finally managed to download my pictures. I only had time to make 2, but it is something.
We had a reasonable event, we hit a massive rock just 1 hour in, which puntured the front axle casing. Luckily tink gave us some chewing gum which saved the day. In the evening we made a more solid repair with 2pack epoxy.
The rest of the event went pretty much without trouble, apart from severely mashing the rh wing onto a tree, followed by an incident were a strap fall of the bonnet during a hill climb, which failed, and then I reversed back over the strap, resulting in the most bend wing I have ever seen.
We came 7th overall, which we were pleased with since it took us a while to get used to the event and the scoringtactics. The car home ok afterwards.
A white easter!
The bent wing:
Daan
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Was just wondering who or what decides if an event is a major one or not.
Adrian
Depends who is competing
Daan
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So are you trying to say is that I'm an absolute star for supplying the skittles & saved the day?
And Chewing gum!
daan
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Ok, I dug up this thread folowing the ultimate challenge last weekend; I bought one of the x-engineering new groundanchors and used it countless times for 3 days. I was very impressed with how well it managed to dig in and allow me to winch out. We gave it some serious abuse(a PTO winch doesnt stop) , but no bother.
I can recommend this groundanchor to anyone. It is light, strong and very reasonably priced.
Daan
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We arrived back in one piece, enjoyed the event very much. A shame a bout alans mishap; we just got there when it happened and got the car going again. Hope you get better soon alan.
Daan
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1/2 of the winning team at the TFC was a TD 90 with a PTO winch
Yes, and his teammate had a single motor 8274. That goes to show that all this talk of new stronger and faster winches is pretty much irrelevant; what you need is a good team with a car that doesnt break down. Thats what makes you win in my opinion. Simon Buck won the outback in morroco, again with just a singlemotor 8274.
I am using a PTO winch in competition and I firmly believe that is the best thing you can have for continues use. My results might not mean anything, but I blame the mentioned problems for my shortcomings!
Daan
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I will be there, competing (and Camping by the way, anyone else on the campsite?).
Looking forward to it, although the drivingskills could be a bit rusty since august last year!
Daan
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a few things have long confused me about this. i must be missing some fundamental principles of how my engine functions.
since it has no throttle body to control airflow, the control is within the pump and controls the amount of fuel, the air is consumed as required for the correct burn?
when on boost, the pressure moves the diaphragm and increases the amount of fuel to compensate for the now increased amount of forcibly inducted air?
so if i were to increase the boost to 1bar, will the fuel pump add fuel to suit or will it burn lean? can it burn lean?
likewise increasing the fueling, will that make it overfuel? can it overfuel? and by what method is this best done? does rotating the diaphragm to increase the ramp only affect fueling on boost?
ive been privvy to so many seemingly conflicting or confusing pieces of advice regarding gaining increased power from my engine, i would love for someone to give a definitive answer as to 'doing this will increase this, but you do or dont need to do this also' type advice.
im looking your way Ian
jim
A diesel can run lean, very lean in fact, which is one of the reasons why it is also more efficient.
The speed is , as you say, controlled by changing the mixture fuel to air ratio. Basically, the more air the engine has, the better it runs, hence the turbo and intercooler. More fuel added to this will increase the power, but decrease efficiency, to the point were you have a trail of black smoke behind you, which is unburnt fuel. Problem with increasing turbopressure is that the temperature of the intake air will also increase, similar to pumping up your bicycle tyre resulting in a hot airpump in the end. So higher pressure does not neccesarely mean more air. Also, when you do this, it will only delay or reduce the moment the wastegate opens. This means it only works flat chat, and does nothing at low RPM.
my personal opinion is bigger intercoolers are wasted in challange trucks as the rely on the flow of cold air through them to cool the inlet charge (its actually an air-air heat exchanger) as there is no fan to drag air through the intercooler its doing nothing while you are bogged down in mud or crawling on rocks at 2mph.for challenge trucks it might be worth putting a fan on the intercooler (i think escourt RS turbos might have had this arrangement, if not its a common mod) to drag air through it.
the other way to go might be a charge cooler (water-air) which uses water as a medium to dump heat from the inlet charge...
Eh, every TDI has a fan working on both the radiator and the intercooler. Most people replace this for an electric fan, stating that it is only works when you need it. But you always need a low temperature intercooler so thats why I still run the standard fan, currently even locked solid.
My 2p anyway.
Daan
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Have you thought about an exhaust with straight through silencers? This will give you a quiet exhaust with no power losses. I made mine with 2 straight through silencers (no baffles), based on a complete defender tdi and discovery tdi system, used one straight through silencer from both systems, and I find it as quiet as any standard TDI. I cant compare it with the baffled silencers, since I never ran it like that, but it is very quiet.
Daan
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There is a special tool for this purpose, it is an arbor that can hold 2 holesaws, one size of the old hole, one size for the bigger hole, the smaller size acts as a guide.
Here:
http://www.starrett.co.uk/products/sawblad...ole-saws/Page6/
At the bottom of the page, the 'oops' specification. No picture unfortunately.
I haven't got one myself, but have seen them used. Alternatively, you can use 2 discs that were cut out by the different sizes holesaw, bolt them together with a 1/4" bolt and nut, and use this as a guide for the holesaw, without the arbor drill. This is my cheaper, get out of trouble shortcut.
Daan
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Wher did I see that car before...
Oh yes now I remember, it was on top gear!
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Are the 109 Station Wagon rear panels interchangeable with the 88 van side panels? I've seen it done on a 110 wanted to know if i could do it on a 109?
Thanks
Yes, their length is the same.
Daan
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Nice landy
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No mention of tyre size in that excerpt Darren. I recall reading an account of the expedition many years ago, that the ''engineers'' back in Solihull were trying to analyse why the RangeRovers were blowing so many diffs, and how to address the problem. They flew out non LSD centre diffs, based on the ridiculous theory they would provide a more balanced distribution of front to rear torque ! WTF,what difference would that make ? the centre diffs were or should have been locked all the time they were in the Jungle. Anyway they were still breaking lots of diffs, so the ''Engineers '' back in Solihull farted around again for while until they made a breakthrough, and telegraphed their amazing findings to the expedition crew,that the 7.50x16'' SAT's were just too big, and recommended that the vehicles be returned back to the standard (useless for the conditions) 205 x 16'' tyres.
Maybe my memory ain't so good anymore,and I'm talking out of my rear end , but that's how this old fart remembers it.
Bill.
Both solutions would work when trying to solve broken drivetrain parts. and give less traction. Glad I wasnt in the jungle waiting for solihul to come up with a sulation, around 30 years later were still waiting for that!
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You could of course always hang about in the malaysian jungle for 10 days, hoping to get out on the other end in 1 piece. You even compete on some tracks.
Living out of your vehicle for 10 days is hard enough as it is, we were carrying about 300 kg of junk in the back to keep ourselves and the car going.
Maybe not quite the 90 days darien gap, but It would be a taster and a carbreaker nonetheless. Building bridges was interesting, especially when it comes to getting to know people. I lost count of the amount of bridges we build/repaired/drove over.
Last year everyone came out of the jungle by boat, having left their vehicles behind. I want to go back!
daan
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I reckon it looks like an Arnold. Not much help though I suspect.
on a slightly more serious note why not make up a brand name and then just go for initials and a big number like most winches seem to be, eg:
the OX sch12501i
ps, I still like Arnold the Winch
Just call it the terminator.
Electronics booty fab - retro chic air/fuel ratio meter
in Tools and Fabrication
Posted
It can be made to work if your GPS signal is good enough.
Retard the ignition very quick to reduce power and thats how that works.