Daan
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Posts posted by Daan
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the temperature sensor is different, otherwise its the same.
Daan
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Funnily enough we had a tubeless tyre come right off both beads last weekend on an event. . Just as well as it happened later on the other side
We had 4 separate rims lose their tyres on the Belgium National.Fair enough if you can solve it, but the reason I am running tubes is to stop it happening. But each to its own I suppose.
Daan
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I ran tubes for as long as I had a landy. The wheel spinning in the tube is an issue under about 12 psi, so thats pretty much your limit. For simex tyres, this works well in most situations. Mud between tyre and wheel does happen, but not allarmingly so in my case. I fit tyres without soap to reduce problems mentioned. short of having beadlocks, tubes are still loads better than tubeless imho. Ever tried to seat a tubeless tyre in the field? I have never managed it myself.
Daan
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Thanks Daan, simple and effective, even better using the shorter ATV valves
Keep em' coming!
Dave
I wouldn't bother with tubeless if you want my opinion; judging from the fact you need valve protectors, you do take offroading seriously. That in my mind automaticaly means either innertubes or beadlocks.
I am very much in favour of inner tubes, it allows you to air down to around 10-12 psi which is ample in most situations. It also allows you to bend your rims like buggery and still keep air in the tyres.
Daan
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mine:
Daan
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later, nige, later.
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I tried a steel tube, but if you run inner tubes (like I do), it becomes very hard to inflate the wheel from 0, since you cant grab hold of the valve to inflate it.
I now run the 'u' shaped loops, they work mint.
Daan
My spare set of Mach V's are being cleaned and blasted prior to a new paint job.Since me and Diesel Dave had issues with ripped-off valves at the Belgium National any ideas for welded valve protectors?
Paul uses steel tube welded over the hole in the rim for the valve on Black Piggie, others I have seen use steel rod formed into a 'U' shape, any ideas / pictures / preferences / don't do this way?
Dave
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Hi, I am after some studs 1/2'' unc x 3'' length, as well as m10 studs, 50 mm long (like the ones to connect the engine to the box, but longer.
Does anyone know if these are available off the shelve anywhere, or am I into bespoke machining?
Daan
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Well, I am dutch and I think they are more disadvantage than advantage. You might occasionally use it, but as jim say (we agree) you can use your rear winch for this. Bearing in mind you add around 50 kg ( depending on which winch you use) which is holding you back anywhere you dont need it, I say dont bother.
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There is still live in the old series landrovers!
B)
Daan
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I do know of one mad man that is (apperently) using one of the Gigglepin top housing and the Wazza system giving the user FOUR motors
I wonder how long his extension lead is?
Daan
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That is cool.
And when you drive one and realise a roll is inevatable, than think about this: I designed that roll cage!
Daan
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All sounds a bit harsh to me; Mine has been used since 2003 and works mint. In fact , most american rock crawlers are using these in both front and rear applications. And every Nascar has a detroit diff (around 700 horses). Lets see some evidence here shall we?
Daan
Detroit No Spin lockers are anything but bullet proof.In fact for the past 20 years or so since the introduction of the S series they have been absolute carp.A mate of mine has an early pre S series in a 9'' Ford adapted to a LandRover which is still like new having survived countless broken 31 spline halfshafts and a couple of crown wheel and pinions, and I have two 225S that I bought new when I used to run Salisburies front and rear.mine have never seen a broken halfshaft and have done only a quarter of the mileage yet they are buggered . The difference is that all the toothy bits in the early models were cut and milled from forged steel blanks with full length dog teeth on the side gears and drivers and did not feature the stupid holdout rings which effectively halve the tooth length. If one looks closely at the S series it will be revealed that they are also investment cast from carp materials, despite having the appearance of being cut and milled. In my previous job rebuilding diffs on medium/heavy commercial vehicles I was replacing buggered low mileage Detroits at an average of 3 per week. Pure junk!.Bill.
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Actually, you already have a 4 link really. Jusr because the toplinks use the same joint, doesnt make it work any different. So I cant see much point to change, unless you really need massive travel, but as said before, start looking at the front first.
Daan
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Thats a bad way to go.
Daan
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I would not like to take my challenge truck on the road for more than and hour at a time, I would be deaf, freezing, shaken and stirred and just a little freaked.
Chicken.
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Smack him.
your not bending it, your shearing it. Even if you were bending it, it takes around 70 % more force to actually bend it, let alone break it.
Tell your friend this information come from a reliable source...
Daan
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I do have 5 new staun tubes lying around with 4 usable (second hand) beadlocks. Pm me if you are interested.
Daan
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Crikey.... you can sue people now because you don't open your eyes?
my sentiments exactly; next thing you can drink drive and sue the supermarket for the carnage because beercans look just like coke cans.
If you have a D3 or RRS, and accidentally misfuel it, then hopefully you will notice BEFORE you turn the key. Turn the key and you will start the fuel pump in the tank which will contaminate the system. If you have not turned the key, then you will get away with a tank drain and flush if you can get it recovered to a garage.Problem is, they have electronic park brakes, and you need to make sure the recovery driver knows how to release the EPB without turning the key. If you remove the panel behind the park brake switch, there is a cable with a loop end, put the jack handle in and pull VERY hard. It will release the park brake and allow the vehicle to be winched onto the recovery truck.
Don't turn the key !
I dont believe a disco 3 is the way forward for simple minds such like myself.
Daan
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For anyone who wants to pay tribute to Colin Mcrae: there is a book of condolance for the public to sign at Prodrive, banbury.
Regards, Daan
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Did you replace the rings that the seals are running on? These are a seperate part on series stubaxles. when the seal hasn't got a clean face to work on, it will fail soon again.
Also, I have bought drive members from Craddocks which had a tapped hole for a grease nipple. it was under 45 degrees between the hubcap bos and the flangeface.
Might be worth a try, although when I bought them was years ago.
Daan
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I reckon width is bad for catching rocks; It might be better for flotation , but ultimately I would go for the XZLs on wolf rims myself.
Daan
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I would under no circumstance fit an air spring to a vehicle going through the sahara. You only need one stone to get between this an the coilspring and you can kiss goodby to these. I would get genuine heavy dutys or Old Man Emus to a poundage you feel happy with and add anti roll bars front and rear to counteract roll once you decided what poundage is good. If you are happy with the current poundage, just add anti roll bars (maybe 2 at the rear if needed). The suspension for a vehicle that is going through the sahara is the most important thing you want to worry about.
There is little point adding poundage to the springs (either by airbags or extra springs) to counteract roll; it will make the ride harder and more parts fall off your vehicle/loose fillings out of your teeth.
Leuke trip trouwens; Ik was recentelijk al op je website!
Succes, Daan
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Mine:
And dont forget the bellhouse breather.
Daan
OT: Biodiesel in a peugeot
in International Forum
Posted
You should only attempt it with a bosch pump, the lucas cav pump will fail eventually.
What do you pay for biodiesel in your area? I have looked at it over here, but the price is virtually the same as ordinary diesel.
Or are you brewing it in your garage?
Daan