Daan
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Posts posted by Daan
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On my 110 the Salisbury is quite worn (diff has lots of play, both drive members need replacing, brakes are dodgy and stub axle is worn) so replacing seems like a good option.
I would like to gain discbrakes for less maintenance and off road problems. The 110 is used as a overlander and service vehicle for offroad events (croatia etc) It weighs about 3300kg and should be bulletproof in the future so I only have to work on the competing vehicles and not the support truck. Just have driven it to Dakar and back and had to keep adjusting brakes, change flanges twice, and broke the last flange in madrid and came home in 2Wd.......
I've come up with 2 good options:
Buy a new crated sals with disc brakes (about 1200 euro)fit uprated driveflanges. pro, bulletproof, easy to fit, cons: heavy, minimized groundclearance.
Use a RRC axles I've got lying around, upgrade with ashcroft halfshafts, drive members and detroit (about 1200 euro)
Pro: light, probably as strong as sals, better groundclearance, Cons: more expensive, less strong housing
Which is the better option and why? I would like to hear your opinions before I hand my money to mister Ashcroft.
Cheers Bowy
One comment on the drive flanges: You probably run these dry, together with grease in the wheelbearings. If you remove the oil seal to the diff and allow this to run oiled, you will not experience the problems you mentioned here. Also wheelbearings will last almost forever when running in oil.
This was a mod I did on the front axle, becasue of similar problems like you described. The rear axle always ran in oil and the internals looked like new. Hence the change at the front.
Groeten, Daan
Daan
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further to what dirtzdiesel said, I have m20 rose joints for the rear radiusarms. I used the boots and the bracket holding them encloses them completely, so the boot cant tear. Used since 2001, no play yet.
Daan
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Interesting Mike
I've just had a brainwave whilst tidying out the shed. What if i was to cut the top off a 20L metal jerry can, and weld on a flat plate. I could then put all the fittings on this plate, so my welds will be above the fuel level and would be cheap to do.
Any ideas where can i buy a threaded top and neck from ?
you can buy an adapter which fits on the filler neck of a 20 liter jerry which allows you to use it as a tank. They are on ebay.
Daan
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Danns backflip
Eh, tony, that was 2005. I had almost forgotten myself....
The best memory from 2007 has to be my wedding in june. I got warned by a few guys to stay away from commitments like this, but sofar no regrets!
Daan
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Muppetry.
yes. I actually heard what they were talking about, talking flemish, they wouldnot be on my list of people to go offroading with.
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you do not need a working prototype or anything like that to get a patent pending.
this will stop any other sods from stealing the design/idea and putting their own patent in.
a simple and explanatory line drawing is all you need.
However - WARNING!
getting a patent is very expensive. You need approx £5K to get a patent all the way through the system in the UK and US/int patent systems. Its the paperwork and existing patent searches that take the time and money.
but getting a patent pending is cheap and easy and should in the short term protect your idea. Well worth doing this and then trying to find out if any other companies have done something simillar and patented its design. If not, you could approach people like {insert company name here - other than scrapiron) for funding for the patent and design and let them manufacturer/sell it under licence.
you would own the patent, get commission for any units sold and have to do no work for the money!
A patent for this is not worth the paper its written on; for a start it is a different application for an existing idea. Also, if you read the thread I count at least 2 applications of the idea on winches. So its not new and therefore forget the patent.
If you were to come up with a device that would use a hot exhaust as a powersource for a winch, that might be worth a patent. Untill that happens, I will be using the good old PTO, which incidently, does not overrun.
Daan
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Shorting the motor is self-regulating, there's a highish intial current which reduces as the motor slows. Also there is no risk of the motor reversing as there might be if a more sophisticated circuit fails. I would have thought there would be enough residual magnetism for this method to work.
Not particularly clued up on sparking in general, however shorting does happen for this reason on most windscreenwipermotors to make sure they park at the right position.
Daan
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This thread is worthless without pics.
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Just out of interest: what is the cut off date when the SVA became mandatory?
Daan
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these are fantastic. but really only used on exhausts for some reason
The reason must be the 1 pound price tag; you can buy probably a box wth a hundred nlyocs for that.
K nuts can be used more than once though.
I buy them here: www.tridentracing.co.uk/
Daan
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the best locknuts, by a long way are k-nuts. They are smaller in spanner size, 12 mm for an m10 from memory with a flange and are deformed to slightly oval rather than round. You get them in metric and imperial, costing around 1 pound each depending on size. I use them on my exhaust and on places were spanner space is tight.
daan
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I have experience with the vauxhall unit, it was used on the corsa 1600 rallycar that I was involved in a few years ago. It worked very well, the power assist constant regardless of engine revs. The downside is that they are heavy and big. They were also being used on touringcars at the time, fitted in the boot of the car to improve weight distribution. I am not sure whether the flow is enough to power a Landrover steeringbox though.
The theory is also that it doesnt take power when going in a straight line. But I personally wouldn't change it if the belt driven pump was already present.
Daan
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Cheers for the picture, its a bit bling mate.
One more comment for john: If you are using the H14, your benchmark will have to be the PTO speed. Bearing in mind that the inputshaft will have a speed of the crankspeed/3.5 (1st gear ratio). So if your hydraulic set up beats 1 rotation on the inputshaft for 3.5 rotations of the crank, it will be faster. If not, you might as well chuck that propshaft back in.
Daan
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Adrian, I cant see a picture.
Daan
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Since you planning on running 2 pumps, why dont you run one pump from the belt and one pump of a pto? That would be my solution on first attempt since that will give you the best of both worlds; I am sure some non return valves would be neccesarry but that wouldnt be the end of the world.
daan
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there are more than a few of us in OZ
who struggle to make ends meet.
I like the way this thread is turning out; no place is perfect. From my little experience of being abroad (and currently I am abroad), that is a conclusion I drew long ago.
Still, geoff beaumant (and others) have shown there are solutions to this problem, and currently I am getting organized to do the same.
daan
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I used a large pipe cutter for this, bought cheaply on ebay.
I'm going to cut and shut a prop. I don't a lathe I'm afraid.Les.
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Thought you guys might find this interesting:
http://www.tractortractor.org/english/
My mother met her a few times and was very much taken by her personality. This girl certainly puts most of us to shame.
Daan
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Do you know the weight of your solid drum? In my mind solid is just overkill, you could at least make an effort to smoke a hole through the middle.
With regards to power figures: My suggestion is not to let the truth in the way of a good winch discussion, otherwise we will cut the discussion short and we wont have anything to talk about. Damn, I had to many beers!
PTO
Mine is from billet and bearing No FAG 6012, need to turn a small amount from end plate bearing OD 110mm and also from end of drum 60mm bearing is 20mm wide and sealed.Peter
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That is beautifull. What engine?
I stuck with the PTO setup myself, being so simple and strong and also very controllable (fools behind the wheel permitting). I did go for an electric rr winch, which allows me to use it in the upside down position as well. A PTO winch front and rr has also been built on landrovers in the past.
I guess its down to personal preference.
daan
Hi Daan, I went hydro with the front because I wanted a rear hydraulic as well and also just because Ilike hydraulics. That said , it doesn't pull as well as the mech setup with the overload clutch wound up, but as I said above that would seem to be down to my choice of drive motor off the LR series hyd. winch..Here are some pics of my 109 ..its a bit of a stealth hybrid though
cheers
Steveb
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I hate to ask negative questions here, but what is achieved by removing mechanical pto with a hydraulic pto and then run the same winch hydraulic?
Could you show a picture of the complete land, Seems you are another of the few series landys!
Daan
Errr you seem to have worked out my cunning engineering conversion there fridge
MM type S , you're spot on with the difference in drum capacity , the fairey on mine it turns out has the same length and size of cable as the rear MM but is probably only half full...
The Fairey is powered by a dowty reversible pump off a series Land Rover Hyd. winch bolted to a bracket on the inside of the chassis rail with the last bit of the driveshaft with a uj at the pump end and the twin roller dog into the winch drive. It does seem to reach max pressure quickly releasing the PRV on a full drum and if I'm extracting say a RRC stuck to axle depth on 7.50s it needs most of the cable off and probably a pulley block...I'm not sure that the Dowty pump gives as much torque as the std MM Roller Stator pump .
Line speed is quicker than the MM in low , will be trying the MM out for real tomorrow hopefully as all I've done is load the wire and run it in a couple of times .. it did drag the 109 with the wheels locked
I'll get some pic's of the set up on the front and post them up
cheers
Steveb
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I ve had the brake cap from the ep9 winch off and had mud and water into this. it is due to the breather features on the cap allowing this to get in. I will seal this off when reassembling this. I will have to look at some breather pipe to this but the alu cap has quite a thin wall, not ideal.
The comment of paul about no seals sounds a bit scarry though.
Daan
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why bother with a group hug Daan? Ive gotten so used to being wrong I simply dont give a flying **ck,
tyres, axles, engines, winches, welding, driving, navigation, even building lighter vehicles - one day I may accidentally get it right but until then I can live with the disapproval.
do as you do - smile at the confusion
toys...
not a lot, Miller, Cebora, Esab, Migatronic short list I know but its ok for the home hobby jobs
Well, I think this forum is very much about people chatting a lot and being sociable with each other. Fine if that is what you want but some people also want proper advice before they get on with a job.
Daan,I was the person who started the lightweight build thread, it may currently not have any significant substance, but i posted the question for opinions and hopefully a means of bouncing ideas about.
I do have a project that will (hopefully) incorporate the ideas that got thrown about, but researching the idea by asking questions(that some may find pointless) is cheaper and easier for flushing out 'stupid' mistakes that i may make.
Equally i accept that not all persons will agree or see the point of certain questions.
Hey ho, thats life.
It wasn't a dig at anyone but it did occur to me that a serious suggestion wasn't actually received as such. There was just talk about spaceframes, independant suspension and cosworth engined vehicles of which I dont think many will ever turn a wheel.
Daan
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I like the way people talk out of the place were the sun doesnt shine! I remember a thread about the lightweight of roader that someone was dreaming about: it ended up as a vapour build show off (with some people you just know dont you).
I then suggested that homebase does a good deal on thin acrylic sheet to replace your windows with, so you can shed some weight.
I think 1 person replied that the weightsaving wasn't worth the bother, and the thread died a death shortly after. Right ok then, maybe people just like to dream together with others.
Group hug I reckon.
daan
What have you got done then?
in International Forum
Posted
Me and my wife took the plane to prague and then the train to Zlin, near the slovak border. We then arrived at the inlaws house were local wine and slibowize were waiting for us: feet up and
we will head back to prague tomorow.
Daan