Daan
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Posts posted by Daan
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Hi Xychix,
Nice project you have there. I doubt your chassis parts are going to fall off, and judging from the pictures I can see you are on a steep learning curve.
We appreciate any buildup of our favourite brand and your updates are very welcome. Keep them coming!
Daan
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5 hours ago, miketomcat said:
Moved house, ended up with a single garage instead of a double, my ibex is in storage still and I only managed one days work on it and I've barely had time to keep up with maintenance on 45 and the 110. Here's to an interesting new year.
Mike
Hows work? Daan
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Little trip to croatia was the main highlight this year. I doubt 2017 is going to include much of this, as I am still patching up the resulting problems; car problems, money, browny points, motivation etc. Still, I am glad it's crossed off the list!
Happy 2017, Daan
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Good you are back. We had Brexit, you can't buy a new defender anymore and we will have Trump as US president. Nothing else much happened.....
But you probably knew all this already.
Happy new year, Daan
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There is no oil pump or anything else I can think of that would stop you running an lt 230 in reverse as far as I can see.
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13 minutes ago, Red90 said:
You understanding of the geometry is incorrect.
Incorrect. The ladder bar is rigid and rotates around the shackle bush, as the shackle end cannot move up or down, the only way the axle can move is by rotating around the shackle bush. The leaf spring however is not rigid and the axle moves up and down without rotating. There is a slight movement of the axle forwards and backwards, which is accounted for with the shackle, but the rotation is completely unnatural to the axle. ie , it binds. The fact that many people use it doesn't make it a good system.
Daan
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The single bar is the best solution IMO. The shackle solution with a radius arm is fighting the suspension, as the whole axle will rotate around the shackle end, while the leaf springs want to try to stop rotating the axle. They do opposite things basically.
The single bar, when laid out well will do the same thing as the leaf springs: letting the axle move up and down without rotating it.
By the way, if you think you are breaking diffs because of axle wrap, I reckon it is quite the other way round: The diff and shaft will not see any big shock loads, due to the axle being able to cushion it by wrapping the springs. So I don't think a wrapping bar is going to solve your problem. It's not a bad thing though.
Daan
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bring it on.
Daan
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I reckon the way to go for an electric car is to buy a Nissan Leaf with a dead battery @ 5k and fit a new battery @ 5k. This gives you a usable electric car for about 3-4 years.
I had a serious look at it recently, but I cannot see it working (yet). Here is the reason:
Problem is the range is about 100 miles; but this involves charging 100% and flatten it completely.
In order to get a meaning full battery life, you need to set charging to 80% and not discharge to less than 20%.
This is also what nissan bases the warranty on. So you loose 40% on top of the fact that you only get 80% of the stated range. Also, after 2 years your battery power is only 80% of what you started with.
Then, if the temps are getting below zero, another 80%.
This works out at: 60% x 80% x 80% x 80% x 100 miles = 31 miles.
Based on this, I can just make it to work one way. I have decided for now it is not viable, as I cannot charge at work.
Maybe give it 2-3 years and better solutions could appear.
Daan
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On ebay there is this:
Gives you a 4 pin diff I believe. Front shafts from ashcroft £245, rear shafts £260. about £400 per axle you wont break them ever I reckon. For Cv's, use standard 23 spline 110 ones. You can start with 1 axle at the time, or just replace once your standard stuff is broken.
I ran these cv's since 2002 (and they were used parts from a scrapper!). They are still in there, and that's with detroit diffs and 35s, Taken to hell and back a few times.
I cant see swapping toyota stuff being a viable option, or even cheaper.
Daan
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The pistons will only come out out from the top. You probably have something stuck in the gap between the piston and the bore. Is it stuck in bottom dead centre? If not, I would probably try pressing it down first to see if any debris shows up. Probably disconnect all 4 connecting rods to make sure you are dealing with one piston at the time. Maybe take out the crank also, so you can press them down from the bottom in a straight line.
Daan
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I don't think there is an argument for using anything else than ashcroft stuff. The toyota conversion used to be offered by jack mcnamara so you could fit toyota diffs in your axle. You would need special shafts though which were at least as expensive as ashcrofts so nothing much gained here. For ALRC, if you get a 4 pin short nose diff and ashcroft shafts it wont break on 7.50-16s. People run 37s on landrover axles these days with decent results. 35s will almost certainly survive on an ashcroft equiped axle. The td5 axles use the same diffs so apart from cv's, there is no real gain.
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Mine used to run on lpg. Problem is mainly if you want dual fuel: if you hardly use the petrol system, and one day you need it, chances are is doesn't work. Lines get clogged or perished parts that have been dry get stuck etc. In holland at the early beginning of LPG, quite a few cars went up in flames when they switched back to petrol and the fuel came out of a perished line and over the exhaust. If you regularly change over to petrol it should work ok. Cold start is a problem and is best on petrol. I have had to switch on the kettle once, poor hot water over the vapourizer before starting, which worked. Like with most things automotive, treat it well and it will work ok.
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Could you be more specific?
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As mentioned, those holes need tubing to take big loads. The main rails are only 2 mm thick.
I would completely support the front axle using the removable crossmember, like the qt 3 link system. Have you thought of a 1 link? That would solve a lot of problems.
Daan
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Following Simon's write up, I now bought one as well. Yes, I can create some decent welds with it, and haven't had much practice recently.
Very happy with it so far.
Daan
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I think this is a great idea from ALRC, hope it will be successfull.
Daan
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4 hours ago, miketomcat said:
I haven't bought mags for years for the same reasons as most. I predominantly read here but I have to say I really miss the days of jez and Dan building great stuff and writing about it. No offence to those on here that do a great job of restoring or rebuilding but I don't find it interesting. It seems to me due to trend and legislation we are stuck with the same thing over and over.
Mike
Mike, you are building great stuff.
Daan
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Does the q class have any rules for diff locks and tyre size?
Daan
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I suppose I could throw a few things in the fire, since I actually feature this month... My intention was to write/provide a story of our Croatia adventure, in a way that shows you dont need a 50k+ truck to do it. (gigglepin and such like do get featured in LRO, and I think that puts some people off, because most will never be able to afford it). I was also hoping to support my chosen charity and the few sponsors I have. We weren't going to set the world alight, but maybe we could show 'Croatia trophy for the poor'.
This seemed do fall on deaf ears completely. I suppose their current reader group are not about being to the neck in the mud anymore, so that's probably fair. About 4 months later (when the event was done and dusted and the car completely knackered), I got a reply that they wanted to feature my car. I did agree, and I suppose they made a decent story out of it. I was hoping to show something different than what they normaly dol, but I think the mags do the same as tv, were you see what works and keep doing the same thing.
I think they don't expect people to subscribe for ever, as you do tend to repeat yourself after writing 10 years about the same subject. Total offroad took this theory to the next level by doing exact reprints from 5 years ago, that just taking the mickey if you ask me.
Also, Land rover is now more turning into a classic car, rather than a working vehicle, and now we have the land rover classic magazine emerging as a result.
The scene is just changing and the mags change with it.
I understand the reluctance for advertisements, especially Britpart, but refusing several thousand pounds a month is not what happens in the real world. Get real chaps!
If only they could add more pages with interesting stuff to make up for advertisers.
Daan
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2 hours ago, FridgeFreezer said:
If you can't afford to take the hit of a big repair bill you're probably best not buying the car.
This. To answer your original question: neither of the cars you mentioned. I suppose if you like to tinker with it, and follow the forums, you can maintain it yourself for not a lot. But I personally don't drive a landy as a daily, because I can see it ending up very expensive if you need the car every day. If you want it reliable, I would buy a 1 year old car at auction.
I did this , just not a landy...
Daan
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3 hours ago, Bowie69 said:
Though I understand adding to it is not a problem, just moving cross members, outriggers, shortening rails etc. As these all are used to create the structure of the vehicle.
But that is pretty much the same as it was.
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On 17/10/2016 at 4:45 PM, WesBrooks said:
That's my current understanding too. Additions to the chassis is a grey area as there was something on the now defunct ACE site that indicate that you could add to the chassis, but not remove. I had heard of a modifications older than clause, but it wasn't relevant to me so didn't read into it further.
So whats actually new? If you cut a chassis, you need an IVA, that has not changed. Or am i not reading the whole thing?
Daan
adapting a disposable bottle for mig?
in Tools and Fabrication
Posted
Chaps,
I bought some disposable bottles with pure argon. to adapt it to my mig welder, I bought a hose, like this:
http://www.r-techwelding.co.uk/adaptor-kit-1-8-bsp-to-3-8-bsp/
I was expecting this would go between the disposable bottle and the regulator, but it doesn't. It appears I need another regulator too, like this:
http://www.r-techwelding.co.uk/mini-gas-regulator/
But that still does not get me a connection between the bottle and the regulator.
This kind of looks like it might work, but I think the bottle end needs a valve to open up the check valve in the bottle:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Adaptor-Conversion-Kit-for-using-disposable-bottles-with-larger-mig-machines-/181417704116?var=480392889446&hash=item2a3d567ab4:m:mdvkB6JED_wfqHVUa_IKzbg
What else do I need?
Daan