Daan
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Posts posted by Daan
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1 hour ago, Red90 said:
With the 200TDI, the stock shroud restricts intercooler flow quite a bit. You can see a significant change when it is removed. So, at least for that engine, the argument is not valid. No cars that I know off have fans on the intercoolers.
If you remove the shroud, no air gets drawn through the intercooler, as the fan sits behind the radiator. Also, the fan in free air is not as effective as when inside a tunnel.
All the electric fan installations I have seen, did not draw any air through the intercooler.
Taking off the fan immediately saw a 10 degree temperature rise in the intercooler temps at modest speeds, and much more when stationary (almost stuck).
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It is not very scientific, as more drawn power means more cooling, i'd say. Usefull when you need it. Also, most of us have an intercooler, and that changes thing quite a lot, especially at low speeds, like offroading. If you run an electric fan, the intercooler becomes a wasted part at lower speeds. So certainly, in this situation, viscous must be far better. Going fast at high RPm, it is a different situation, F1 cars dont have fans for example, as they go fast enough to cool well without them. But they can't stand stationary in the pitlane with the engine running, as they will cook very soon.
Daan
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£230 a year on mine - 300 tdi.
Daan
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I have a few things to add to this, mainly about how to grease your U/Js. Before you all look away, I described my method here:
So far, this method has worked and since I do it this way, no U/J failure in 10 years.
Daan
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Ok, So there is a thread on U/J quality in the international forum were people are mentioning short lives of their U/J, and questioning their quality. Of course, a genuine U/J generally lives longer than a cheap replacement.
But In my experience, there is more to it. Mainly maintenance; how often do you grease your U/Js? And the next question is than how is it done. Before you all think I teaching you to suck eggs I will expand on this a bit more: Problem I found is that one grease nipple is serving 4 bearings. In reality, this means that the grease tend to find the route with the least resistance. This usually means you are effectively greasing 1 or 2 bearings only. And what about the others? They are dry as a bone and fall apart.
To combat this, I thought about it, and came up with a method that I will show you here. It is rather involved, but I have not changed a U/J in 10 years. Here we go:
First off, grease as you would normally. You can see which bearing gets grease, as it pours past the seal:
The ones that dont get any grease need feeding as well. You can do this by pressing the bearing which has already been greased against the crosspiece like so:
This now should stop the flow of grease to the already greased bearing, and find the next passage with the lowest resistance.
If you still have other bearings that have no grease coming out, you can add a G-clamp with a nut, to press 2 opposed bearing cups against the cross piece. keep repeating this process until all bearing cups have grease coming out.
This process is rather fiddly, but as mentioned, since I started doing it this way, I have had no failures. I have done this with the props on the car and using 2 opposed G-clamps. Also, the blue grease is better in my experience, as it does not go solid like the yellow stuff (which I am using here, unfortunately).
Hope that helps, and have fun greasing these things!
Daan
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Every little helps...
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18 hours ago, SteveG said:
10kg in total per winch, and gives the example of someone running two winches would save 20 kilos.
Cheers, Steve
Listen again. he is 10 kg ligther from a leading competitor (redwinch?).
Daan
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Listening to the video, he saved 1.5 kg from the gears and 4.5 total. One of the main problems he had with Quaiffe is that he had to wait for them to make any changes; Quaiffe never used a winch in their lives, so it is hard to expect them to do a good job. now he bought solidworks and is able to everything in house; he improved on the original design, although still being cast, and from ten years of experience, he came up with this.
Daan
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On 07/04/2017 at 0:01 PM, Soren Frimodt said:
Yes it is, and I reckon that is very much because of the lack of billet items. So great for the costumer. Also 10kilos lighter than a Redwinch isn't bad at all!
Entirely incorrect; the gigglepin winch has always been made from castings. The only difference is that they are no longer made by Quaiffe. Jim now manufactures it in house. Quaiffe clearly asked too much money for producing it, hence the price difference. The weight difference as far as I can see is the holes drilled in the gears.
The main competitor, redwinch still make their winches machined from solid.
Daan
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Many rally cars use it, it should work ok. But fan driven is easier. I am not sure how the controls are meant to be wired up. It is an on/off system, so the electric pump switches when required. If it is a standalone black box type thing, it will be easy, if not it could get complicated.
Daan
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Paul Bass and Karl Frost are there every year, but there is a chap called James Richardson, in a unimog hybrid and Richard Edgington in a defender. I don't know either, but if they read this, I wish them the best of luck.
Daan
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Yes, it is happening again, starting on the 2nd of may!
I see 2 british names that I have not met before. Anyone from here or know them?
http://croatia-trophy.org/ct/start-list/
Daan
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oil, remove the seal, and your wheel bearings will live forever.
Daan
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52 minutes ago, steve200TDi said:
Well Done Dave!!
I look forward to the build thread!
Steve
I second that.
Daan
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I think fridge refers to them cracking around the rim where the spokes are welded on. At least you will get a warning because of a flat tyre.
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5 hours ago, Wytze said:
is it possible to get a groove turned in to one of the parts and just use a O.ring?
If you have a lathe that can chuck a 16" wheel you can...
I saw this on ebay:
If you create a large o-ring by gluing the ends, the in between rim, tyre bead and locking ring idea could be a decent option I think.
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If it is in good condition, i don't recall a landrover chassis ever breaking to be fair.
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probably, but it gets very fiddly.
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I would do a metal ring with the bolt holes in and a slightly thicker rubber ring (or o-ring) for a seal. If you just use rubber there is no compression limiter, so you cannot tighten them up. Other option, maybe a manhole cover o-ring in between the bead, the rim and the locking ring? This was used on the john sales split rims.
Daan
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That wont last...
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Must say If i could afford to have my brand new range rover pimped, I would prefer to have it done by landrover rather than some backstreet tuner. It makes sense from a warranty and selling point of view. But don't worry, I will never need to get my new range rover pimped!
Daan
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9 hours ago, dirtyninety said:
I see you share the same username as the ebay account... so surely you already know if its a good vehicle or not, you tell us!
Priceless.
Daan
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11 hours ago, Cynic-al said:
used to be a Marsh until the Dutch came and drained it many years ago.
Bloody dutch.... So where did we start, oh yes petrol engines!
Daan
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Croatia trophy 2017
in Competing in Land Rovers
Posted
And they are underway.