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Another vote for Pomerania. It's 48 hours following a route book through forests with "special tasks" along the route that can be anything from a winch excersice to a water crossing on rafts build from found materials. 2 out of 3 participants are danes in Land Rovers

The ribbed rubberband has a part number by itself ERR736 (both n/a and td) and is a part of the head gasket set as well. I changed the ribbed rubberband on my TD. The difference between old and new was huge. With the new one I have to use force to get the cap off, with the old one only the bonnet held it on ;-) Of course blow-back is always a fair bet with a worn n/a or td.

The doors on those pictures match the doors on early 90" and 110" perfectly. Check that the recess for the external handle is not rusted out. They are designed to trap water, as are the steel frame at the bottom of the door.

On my 1988 90" fitting an air scoop made a tremendous difference. Much more hot air and much less noise. Mine is the cheapest of cheap air scoops, the £8+vat model LR106R from Paddock

With regard to tires I can recommend a set of proper winter tires for snow and especially for ice and slush. Stopping distance and the ability to steer is greatly improved with these once it gets cold. I'm at the moment running Nokian Hakkapeliitta LT 235/85R16 on a 90". There are several variants available, the variant I run have a somewhat AT like pattern that works ok in the mud as well so some offroading capability is preserved. In the past I have run Michelin 4x4 Alpin also on a 90". While they offer superb ice and wet road performance they are entirely a road tire and no good in mud and the like. There ae many other makes and models to choose from. In many countries with proper winters such as Sweden it is against the law to drive a car on non-winter tires in a specific date interval during winter. Even in Denmark where winter tires are not mandatory, more than half of privately owned cars have two sets of wheels, flashy alloys with road tires and black steel rims with winter tires.

It could be caused by small amounts of sand/dirt in the injection pump, which usually happens when the tank is allowed to become empty or nearly empty. Try changing the diesel filter and add injector cleaner to the tank. This has done the trick for me in the past, on a slightly elder model LR diesel though.

Do you happen to have pictures of the way the cage is bolted to the chassis? I happen to live in a country where the powers that be insist that cages be bolted to the chassis according to their own peculiar guidelines, and am searching for a "mass produced" cage that will satisfy this requirement.

I have a 2,5 TD in a 90", consumption is approx. 10 km/liter or ~23 mpg. In the 90", on-road the engine has adequate power but nothing to spare. In city traffic it accelerates well enough to keep up with traffic without you having to flog the engine, but at higher speeds it lacks acceleration to match todays traffic. Off road and for towing the engine has more than enough power. The "power band" is between 1500 and 2500 rpm. Below 1500 rpm it behaves just like a 2,5 N/A.

I bought the foam from Biltema. They have shops in Sweden, Norway and Denmark. It's a wonderful shop for Land Rover owners ;-) http://www.biltema.dk/products/product.asp...p;iItemId=83277 However the product is common generic engine compartment noise dampening material made for small boats. In the past I have bought similar sheets from boating supply shops. The picture in the link above should give you an idea. I believe that getting the surface absolutely clean and cutting the form into pieces that will lay flat against the metal is vital for succes.

I have been very happy with ordinary self adhesive sounddeadening foam with foil on the non-sticky side. Two 50x100x3 cm sheets was enough for my bonnet. I measured and cut so the foam fits in the hollows between the frame of the bonnet. Thereby the adhesive has a uniformly flat surface to adhere to. Before fitting I removed the bonnet, soaked it in first engine degreaser, then brake cleaner and finally cellulose-thinner, with lots of scrubbing at each stage, in order to get a perfectly clean painted metal surface. It has been there for approx. one year now and has done wonders for the noise level in the cab. Total price approx £25 including cleaning materials

Have all rust holes properly welded up, switch to a softtop and fit an air scoop over the air intake for the heater. This has worked for us during several winters. The change from a csw with rusted out footwells is amazing.

ohh how could I forget this under "Top priority things to keep": keep the vent flaps under the windshield

Top priorities changes: get rid of the mud traps - a spaceframe instead of the present ladder-chassis, bulkhead and seatbox would be a good start proper roll-over protection as standard - a "full cage style" spaceframe would work for this get rid of the engine+gearbox+transferbox+propshafts+diffs+axleparts - replace with Tesla style electric motor+gear inside each wheel/hub have the people who design the individual parts and those designing the overall vehicle talk to each other - so you no longer have to take half the vehicle apart to get to the part you need to work on decent aerodynamics for better range/mileage/acceleration highly customizeable body - keeping with the full-cage/tomcat/spaceframe idea you could have several versions, one where the "cage" formed a station-wagon shape, another more like a trayback etc. Outer panels would bolt/bond to the spaceframe and internal dividers/panels/attachmentpoints/etc could be made up as you wanted. Top priority things to keep: 3,5 ton towing capacity as standard tinker-ability overall looks choice of softtop/sw/pickup/etc bodystyles simplicity and robustness long service life in years as well as in miles

For my 90" softtop I have had great success fitting the ExmoorTrim mat system. It's made of a of really dense and heavy rubbery material. it looks good too. To supplement this I attached 30 mm sound absorbing foam to the underside of the bonnet. With these modifications you can converse up to around 90 km/h without yelling and up to 70 km/h without raising our voice at all. Since it's a softtop I did not have to deal with sound dampening for ceiling and sides. However driving topless is virtually silent apart from tyre noise.

Both the petrol and the diesel 2,25 liter was offered for the first year or two of the 90/110" production run. They are a bit rare. It's basically the same engine as was fitted to late seriesIII.

My 2,5 TD has 380.000 km on the odometer and is only blowing moderate amounts of oil into the air filter. Don't know if it has been reconditioned by some prior owner though.

I got mine from http://www.kh-security.de. (type "Oregon scientific" into the "Wonach suchen Sie?" search field and you will find it) They delivered from Germany to Denmark in two days using GLS. The camera is a fascinating bit of kit, but you have to experiment with placement in order to find a spot with low vibration or the films will be sheer agony to watch.

Don't know about recycling options. However beware that animals, especially cats, like to drink antifreeze and that it's absolutely no good for them, a few slurps can be enough to kill. So keep a tight lid on those buckets until you get rid of the stuff.

What do you use for undoing rusted bolts? Aerosol rust dissolver works in most cases. Only nuts on the axles and the like that are constantly sprayed in salty water during winter have a right to be removed using saws, drills, heat and the like ;-)

A 13 mm 12 point socket fits the caliper bolts. A half meter breaker bar is advisable for loosening them - they have to be torqued to 130 Nm so can be a bit hard to loosen.

Mineral or semi-synthetic 10W40 or 15W40 will do nicely. Don't forget to get a new oil filter as well. I have the same engine and am using mineral 10w40 with oil and filter change intervals of 6000-7500 km

It's quite common. Search for "Lucas the prince of darkness" ;-) So far I have had the problem you describe many times, but have yet to replace a bulb or fuse. Connectors that are 20+ years old and therefore corroded and clamps less well than when new combined with water is usually the culprit. Take the offending indicator apart, clean the spade connectors or whatever is used to connect the wire to it and reconnect. Check to see if there are water or mud in the trailer socket.

for everyday use this works out ok for me: rust remover/wd40 tube of copper slip roll of toilet paper plastic tube with assorted M5/M6/M8 machine screws, nuts, washers, plastic clips for the softtop and some cable ties 13 mm ratchet spanner a set of ordinary 6-19 mm spanners and a 9/16" polygrip pliers disposable plastic gloves a few spare fuses carried inside the fusebox

Rimmerbros had what from the picture looked like the original LR bottle jack in their catalog a couple of months ago, and for a reasonable price too.

I have one. It's basically a long socket, so a torque wrench will work fine. Mine has 1/2" square hole but I have seen 3/8" offered for sale as well. You might want to inquire before buying so you get the one that fits the torque wrench you have available.