Bomag

Ive got them, the pads dont last huge milage. If I was to fit discs again I would probably fit the RM ones as they use LR parts and you dont need to modify the swivel housing

yep, the box is s3 We isolated the master cylinder last night, and the pedal pressure was the same, so theres no air in the system. Can only finish the repaint etc, then get it to VAM for its rewire and hopefully when the engine is started all will be ok.

Have tried one, theyre pants, and thats putting it mildly!!! Gave up and went back to old-fashioned method. ive got a mate with a large syringe, he uses this to suck the fluid through which seems to work well.

The bleed nipple is at the top, as per the manual. Ive checked with haynes, but whats non-hydrosatic and hydrostatic? The pedal height from the floor is different for each one, so it looks like I set it in the middle!!! End play is a bit more than expected, but not excessive. I will try to rebleed, its a V8 conversion, and the pipe has more bends than a mountain pass, so the chances of an air-lock are quite high.

Will check tonight, though youve got me thinking re the bleed nipple

Im using a series 2 master cylinder with series 3 pipes, slave and clutch. All parts are new (the master has less than a 1000miles on it) but since these were installed the 'feel' doesnt start till halfway down the pedals travel though it does disengage Is this because the pipe diameter of the series 3 parts is greater than the series 2 and the s2 master cylinder doesnt move as much fluid? or do both masters move the same amount of fluid? The only thing I have changed during the rebuild is the pipe work, which originally was a solid pipe from the master to the slave, of brake pipe diameter.

I look forward to someone sorting this problem out. Bomag ps which series model was the LT77 available in?

Arghhhhh, it was all going so well, which means disaster is just around the corner. Last night we set about bleeding the brakes, but it wasnt to be. This turned into find which joint(s) leaking, tightening it up, trying again, and repeating a number of times. As we had made new lines up, it appears the "flares" arent sealing properly, which means stripping the whole thing again, and trying to re-flare the offending pipes/joints. Its not like Im short of jobs to do, Im gagging to get the vehicle finished, but I think its spent too long in the garage and is now scared to come out

So Tonk, it looks great, works well, in fact its just what the doctor ordered, so are you going to be selling this in kit form, or just taunting those of us who dont have the facilities to make them ourselves?

Please dont abuse this lane, it can get cut up very quickly. My advice is that its a once a year job, stay away if its been wet in the weeks leading up to it, walk it first. There is an escape route halfway in, which is a hardcore surface. Graham, speak to Jon D, weve driven it with him and it was a long day

I was quoted £200 to recore a series rad, with the early deep header tank. Luck was with me and a mate passed on a good rad that he had picked up at SOdbury for a fiver Got a 4core for the V8, I found the 3core struggled a bit, but it might of been because it was knackered!

Yep, will be there again, buy in the spring, and sell in the autumn!! Selling bits and bobs, and not after buying much. We are in the bare metal 101 on mach5s

I hope you didnt break the halfshaft going down Gibbet, theres no good reson why this would happen.

The shape of the gulley has changed, it was a lot deeper and steeper sided, but that was a few years ago. As I remember it, the depth was level with the trailbikes handlebars but it was the turn when leaving the streambed that caused the most problems.

The top section used to have a deep gulley down the centre that needed to be stradled, is this still there?

Robust it might be, but mine has a very bad clonk when selecting R. This only happens once its started to warm up. Its had the bands adjusted as per the haynes, but it makes no difference. Its sending a big shock loading through the complete drivetrain Maybe this is why a previous owner had over filled it

oooh, Ive gone the two leaf front and rear on mine, I didnt like the idea of helper leaf, in my mind there was too much chance of catching and bending/breaking it. We will have to see if Ive made the right choice

Cheers Tonk. It will be interesting to see how long that "partnership" continues

Ltwt springs are good, but they dont compare to paras. Mine had ltwt with extended rear shackles, it still buzzed the rear arches on full articulation. Cheap springs go flat in a short time. If you want the best , look at Gone2far, they lead the way in the articulation game. Im pretty sure they use TiC springs, which says alot about these springs to me. Ive changed to TiC, but am running standard length shackles to start with, its lifted the back of the vehicle a couple of inches, so Im going to see how it goes.

The axle drain plugs are the same, visually there are no differences apart from brake line fixings. The same with the gearbox, visually the same, the number is the only thing that gives it away, syncro was available on very late 2a's The suspension is still leaf sprung, but its now parabolics. I tihnk its all about ethics, Im not trying to pass off a 90 as a 2a. The vast majority of observers wouldnt even know about the mods/changes.

Moving on from the chassis, what about replacing the axles with s3, and the gearbox? Oh and swapping the engine from 2.25 to a V8? All these are direct replacements, but some would say they fall into the "grey area" of taxation. IMO my 2a is just that, but others would argue that its got too many s3 parts on it

I know I dont comment on the Landie stuff too often now (too busy murdering small animals, oh and doing the GLASS stuff) but it came as a surprise when I was told LRe had died (cheers Oildropper) Found you via ORRP, and Im glad I did. The big yellow one WILL be out again soon