Tanis8472

Sure you have got thermostat correct way round and bled system correctly? My bet is thermostat. I had same problem. Thermostat was facing wrong way. Is your thermostat the newer modified y shaped one?

Petrol or diesel?

OOps, forgot this site does not have signatures LOL 1996 P38A RR DSE Just seen sig setting

In the Land Rover sense its not a PTO (although it applies elsewhere). That was a seperate power take off for running machinery The IRD is the same on the petrol 1.8 and 2ltr diesel (1.467:1). The 2.5 v6 is slightly different ratio internally (1.359:1) This is from another LR site.

Ird is same regardless of model. Rear diff is where the ratio was changed. It's not a pto either If vcu is gone it won't turn easily on full lock. It will feel like brakes are on and will try to skip.

It is, but here is cheaper by £13 Its made by wabco who make the original ones. http://www.island-4x4.co.uk/pump-accumulator-wabco-stc2784-p-1024.html

Hi guys, Having replaced the UJ's twice on my front prop shaft and then refitted it, I noticed that the front pinion area is getting very hot. Almost too hot to touch. Is this normal? It drives fine and there are no noises or clunks. TIA tanis P.S. I have changed the diff oil too. No metallic particles i could see just a little dark in colour.

Accumulator bulb (£100 ish) is knackered. Keeping it running like that will wear the pump out. Much dearer than the bulb to replace (£800-£1000 new). Mine is due

Ahem, It's a BMW engine in the years you are looking at

No, it's because they have all rusted away lol.

I would do a search on eurocarparts.com IIRC the oem plugs are Beru

The covers do that. It's a problem caused by leaking rear door. Mine is like that. The wiring looks like mine too,although the grommet is not fitted properly. Sounds like your fuel pump is the problem.

1 on front and 1 on rear will surely make it fail and also cause dangerous driving conditions. If replacing only 2 tyres they must go on the back "axle". This is in the manual.

If its like the FL1, doing that is a bad idea. I'm guessing you had the rears (with more tread) moved to the front and fronts to rear. Newer tyres should always go on back anyway, but more so on these I believe

AFAIK, they should be 195/80R15 £65 fitted. http://www.blackcircles.com/catalogue/avon/ranger-all-terrain/195/80/R15/H/96/f?returnurl=%2forder%2ftyres%3f&tyre=18531199 £65 fitted http://www.blackcircles.com/catalogue/goodyear/wrangler-hp-aw/195/80/R15/H/96/f?returnurl=%2forder%2ftyres%3f&tyre=11182042 68 fitted http://www.blackcircles.com/catalogue/continental/4x4-contact/195/80/R15/H/96/f?returnurl=%2forder%2ftyres%3f&tyre=11188796 £74 fitted

Unfortunately they can be put on the wrong way round. Mine was, by a 'mechanic' when converting my Hippo system. Was causing problems until i corrected it Have you got sorted?

Probably Lucas was original. Maybe Bosch or Denso. Most if not all alternators are reconditioned sold on an exchange basis. Normally with a surchage that is returned when they receive the old one in a reconditionable condition. Have a look here for the correct part number http://lrparts.ru/engl/ Left hand side look for image of FL and look under engine then engine type. HTH Cant post direct link as it isnt allowed on there

This topic is over 2 years old

Expensive way to find out though

Right, got to the bottom of the problem. It was the thermostat causing the issues. 2 brand new ones fitted (1 Genuine LR, the other Vernet) Both are fine by the way. Changed radiator thinking it was blocked. It wasnt While i was having a nosey around the thermostat area with a torch I noticed something i hadn't before. There is a marking on the stat housing that says pump with an arrow. Aha, thought I. Had a look at the Haynes manual to see if there are any photos/diagrams of the pipes. I noticed that the thermostat had been put in the wrong way round by a "mechanic" that did the conversion for my dad years ago. So ofcourse I put the new one in the same way round. So after changing the stat to the correct way round, I now get a hot radiator. Just waiting for it to cool down to top up the coolant to the correct level. Moral of the story, don't assume anything

Petrol. I've been doing some more research trying to find out why its doing it. I didnt realise the thermostat is pressure sensitive too and that there are seveal types sold by different retailers (some are wrong it seems) I spoke to LR dealer yesterday to get correct part number which is PEL500110. Its likely that the one i fitted 2 days ago is not correct spring rate. Partnumber PEM101020. Thats one for diesels and V8's apparently. I have fitted a later coolant tank with matching cap several months ago. I bet these are matched to the spring rate in the thermostat. http://wiki.seloc.org/a/Pressure_Relief_Remote_Thermostat

Hi guys, I seem to have an issue with the cooling system on my 99-00 freelander. There are no leaks, its been pressure tested yesterday and also had an exhaust gas sniffer attached to the header tank which both show normal!! The radiator does not get hot which suggests thermostat is stuck shut. Put a new one on yesterday too so not that. Bled the system as per RAVE manual. Yesteday before doing all that, the temp guage rose slightly and noticed some steam from under bonnet so stopped immediately and turned engine off. It blew a lot of coolant out of tank. Got mechanic to have a look. I topped it up with coolant i had in car straight away. I changed the inlet manifold gasket a few months ago which was leaking and been fine since. There is good circulation as can be seen from coolanf flowing into header tank

Those guards are held in by longer screws in the light cluster. Should be just 3 screws to remove and then pull light out. Might be stuck with rubber gaskets sticking.