DiscoStu

NFU Mutual. Really knowledgeable, winch and bumper automatically covered, 2" lift and oversize tyres accounted for. £400 per year for fully comp, full business use with 3 named drivers.

1994 300 Tdi Discovery, 24 spline, separate flanges.

Sorry for the partial hijack but I was just about to buy a load of frost products, including POR15 to paint a bumper, my chassis and some modular wheels. You say it's a waste of time, why is that? From their own (admittedly biased) description and the views of some forum posts I've seen it would appear to be the mutts nuts. Considering the price, if there are differing opinions out there I'd like to hear them. Stu.

Hi all. I had a couple of UJ's knocking around in the workshop and after my truck (Disco 300Tdi) developed a bit of a vibration I thought I'd treat the front prop to an overhaul. The UJ's were both bought from Paddocks a while ago and were ordered as a front and rear for a 300Tdi. When I came to fit them, one was fine, the other I realised after half an hour of faffing around trying to make circlips sit right was the wrong size. Specifically the cups were a couple of mm deeper and the trunions were more substantial also. I was under the impression that all the UJ's on both front and rear props were the same and also the same across the 200/300 range, the only exception being (Possibly) the V8. Is this wrong, are there different joints for different props/series? Enlightenment required, Stu.

Thanks Tony, I have it now. Stu.

Thanks lads but you're loosing me a bit. I'm not sure about the backspace bit. Could you explain this a bit more please Tony? : "3 1/2" backspace with give the same track as modualrs with spacers" I assume the 3 1/2 etc is measured in inches, does that come out from the hub? If the modulars provided a 3.5" wider track I wouldn't need to use spacers. Rhys, you run modulars and spacers? You must need a lot of room to fit those 35's in

Hi all. I'm in the market for a new set of wheels and mud tyres and rather than jump on the first set of ebay specials I can get hold of (As is my usual MO), I thought I'd try the considered approach. I have a Discovery 300Tdi with a 2" lift. Aside from daily road use I use it for RTV's, Greenlaning and playsites. It currently runs 245/70 BFG AT's and 30mm spacers. I would like my next wheel and tyre combo to give me at least the same track width as the current set up, preferably another 20mm or so. The wheels I've seen, black modulars (Devon 4x4 etc), are described as having a +8 offset. How is this measured? Is there a standard offset for modulars? What is considered to be "Best"? I had planned to fit 265/75/16's but I'm now having second thoughts. One supplier I've spoken with advised using a 15" rim rather than 16" and said that tyre choice was greater and price less for imperial sized tyres such as 31x10.50 over metric. One last thought, Wolf rims - suitable for a disco, Longer studs needed, worth their weight etc? Thanks for any advice you can offer, Stu.

Be careful with TRE's. One side has a left hand thread. I sheared one off using a scaffold pole on stilsons trying to remove it! If you can, heat the steering bar up a bit before you try to turn them, this seemed to help on mine. Stu.

I solved my problems. I should have posted an update sooner - sorry. I replaced all 4 TRE's and changed the front shocks for Britpart Cellular's. I know a lot will think this is heresy but I'll never buy pro-comp again. 14 months old and all the damping properties of a blancmange. My problem was solved straight away and the truck has never handled so good. Look again at your shockers al....

There is a thread over in the defender forum where, IIRC, LandyMan Luke uses one of a Mondeo, with the shroud slightly modified. Its s a good thread if you have a quick look I'm sure you'll find it. This is the link to the info on the fans he put on his own website: http://www.crookesmountain.plus.com/landrover/fan/fan.htm Stu.

Forget part numbers, get a set of 200 clusters from a scrapper. You could also take a length of the loom from the multiplug back to make things easier. You need to break into the loom in each back corner, identify the feed you need for each function, splice in using the NOT SCOTCH LOCK method of your choice, wire to your new bit of loom and multiplug and off you go. If you cant get the multiplug, get some male disconnect block terminals and add them to your existing multiplug in the two free slots. Stu.

Thanks all, it's off to the scrapper then I think I'll wire it up through a switch and relay to begin with, maybe I'll invest in an X-switch to activate it in the future. Cheers, Stu.

Ive heard they are, yes. Stu

Thanks for the feedback all, I will let you know how I get on. I can see where you're coming from Gary but if the whole lot costs me £50, it compares favorably to the cost of overheating. If you didn't have a fan when you needed it you may have overheated, then it's a possible head gasket, head skim etc. A couple of hundred quid and the inconvenience of having the truck off the road. Like I say, I get your drift and for the moment, this cold weather will help but I've cooked a few cars over the years, I've started to get a bit paranoid Stu.

Hi all. I'm planning on adding a fan or pair of fans to my 1994 Disco 300Tdi. I've already removed my viscous unit, I've found it makes the engine a little keener and more willing from low revs. Its a bit quieter, warms up a little quicker and my heaters are now nice and warm by the time I get on the motorway a mile or so from my house. At the moment (Brand new Rad), its not even reaching half temp, even when in stationary traffic for a while but summer will be here soon enough and I'd sooner not trust to luck that it will never overheat without a bit of help. Kenlowe or Pacet seem to be the obvious choices as advertised in the mags but with the news that there is another nipper on the way and the instruction to stop "Spending all my money on that stupid car" fresh in my mind I'm hoping to recycle some off a scrapper. I've decided I'll probably invest in an X-switch to control it but everything else needs to cost peanuts. My question is what make/model of car to get the fans from? I've wondered just how much "Help" the viscous fan provides to the intercooler at low speeds until the air flow naturally builds up, removing the fan doesn't seem to have adversely affected it at the moment but its pretty cold out! What fans would you guys reccomend? Would you dedicate a smaller fan for the intercooler? What cunning and ingenious builds have you undertaken that I can copy and pretend I invented to my mates?? All wild and weird ideas appreciated, Stu.

I got a bearmach from mailorder4x4.com/co etc. Looks really good quality and was about £100 with free delivery. Great service too, nice chaps. Stu.

1/4 BSP.

That makes sense, thanks. Looking at the pictures of the trucks above I can see why the bottom truck would find that the best set up. Having no inner wheelarch to spak of, big tyres can fit easily into the space even on full compression. Thanks again, Stu.

Can you explain the way raised mounts work to me please? I get the feeling that using lowered mounts is seen to be less effective than using longer shocks and raised mounts. My simple maths tells me a standard shock with a -2" mount = +2" travel. A +2" mount with a +5" shock = +3" travel. Why is it worth the expense/complication for the extra inch? I'm sure I must be missing somthing. Stu.

If you do have trouble swapping them, this takes us all the back to lowered mounts again I'm in the process of buying a few bits of a guy on the mud club forum. I'll ask him what he's got on the one he's pulling to bits. Stu.

Glad I guessed right Josh, probably a first. Good luck getting them swapped, MM have been ok with me in the past, if your invoice states +2" they can't really moan can they? Stu.

The arms are standard, the bushes are all polybushes.

Well done Joe, it's not the easiest job to do on your own Were you on your drive or nice and warm in a garage? Brrrr.... Good work fella, Stu.

You're right mate, somthings not doing its job properly. If you have Bearmach +2 springs (there not that much longer than standard length, just compress less for a given weight), they should be dislocating on full shock travel. Are you sure your shocks are +2, did the supplier make a mistake I wonder? Get it on the twist off ramp and take a photo. Thats not quite at my maximum, maybe another inch possible. My set up is the same except on britpart springs. Stu.

Hi Josh. Reading through this post I feel that the above advice, taking a look from the outside of the vehicle, is a really good idea. I have a similar set up to you, +2" springs and +2" pro-comps. I've recently had to change the front dampers after just 14 months so I'm not overly impressed with them. This time round I've got britpart super gaz and from the moment they went on they transformed the truck. They are standard length but I plan to fit some lowered turrets to compensate. So far, I've been happy with the amount of articulation I can achieve on the rear. I use my truck as my everyday car, for green laning and RTV trails - it holds its own. I have dislocation cones on the rear and need them, I regularly get two or three inches of space between the top of the spring and the seat. Not masses as compared to they gwyn lewis setup but are you getting this amount? Springs and shocks are one thing but if your A frame ball joint, suspension bushes and trailing arms are limiting your travel the longest shocks in the world wont help. You need to get it articulated somewhere stable and see what you're getting from your current set up. My guess would be that back is much better than the front. The front end is stiffer by design, radius arm bush flex cant compete with the articulation of the rear axle trailing arm mounts. There are options available, cranked arms, rose joints etc but your standard front prop UJ's will probably destroy themselves on full articulation. Each mod leads to another eh? Overriding all of this is why do you think you need more articulation? Best of luck, Stu.