DiscoStu

My disco has the bent drag link also, its original on mine but someone on this forum did once point it out as a problem. Is the bend quite symmetrical and just to the left of the diff looking at it from the front? Worn front suspension components including panhard rod bushes can induce an unstable feeling, I've got to say, mine sometimes feels on the edge of control on fast A/B roads. Bump steer can also be an issue, swivel pre-loads can be altered for a more predictable ride. I need to do both these jobs on mine and have a set of polybushes in the garage waiting to go on for just this reason. Stu.

I got my last bearing set from the main stealer. 2 bearings, 2 cups and 2 seals, £40. I managed to clean up the stub axle.

Try www.winchsolutions.co.uk. I got mine from there and have been very happy with it. £200 for cash.

You can often get away with a bare minimum of modification with 2" lifts, springs and shocks as you say, extended brake hoses, bump stops and dislocation cones on the rear is all you will need (Probably). 3" can upset castor angle, steering wheel position, eat prop UJ's etc etc. It really depends on what you intend to do with the vehicle, how extreme is your off roading, tyre size etc. Personally I'm coming round to the idea of a 1" lift with massivley long travel shocks, lowered mounts and tall tyres with significant ammounts of bodywork trimming. I currently run a 2" as described above.

Ello Pikester, hows it goin? Seems like a long time ago that I was doin that now I'll take that piece of ally pipe if there are no other takers mate. I've been looking at the southdown ones on eblag, very nice and with a bend in them too. This will be significantly cheaper however... Stu.

I'd agree with the above. Have you really done away with your air filter? Not good... See here: http://forum.difflock.com/viewtopic.php?t=...&highlight= Stu

I have done it very simply on my 300Tdi. No relays, gubbins etc. Just run a suitable cable from positive (1st bat) to positive (2nd bat) and from the earth terminal (2nd bat) to the chassis. The batteries are connected in parrallel and charge/discharge at the same time (There is a bias to battery 1 on charging, I've measured it). This gives me more oomph (cold cranking amps) to get my veg oil moving on cold mornings and plenty of juice for ancillaries like lights and winch etc. This set up is suited to my needs, but does not provide any protection from flattening both batteries if using accessories without the engine running, not really an expedition setup. Stu.

These are 245/70/16 on scrapiron spacers with a 2" lift. They did thier own camel cut....but only a bit on the bottom corner of the rear quarter. Chewed the plastic arches of tho.

Heres mine!

Snowed for about an hour here this morning, very fine stuff, nothing to get excited about. Its bitterly cold tho and the sky is full of big snow clouds so here's hoping

I usually run on a veg oil/diesel mix. Generally 60%+ veg oil. I've done this for about 8 months (10,000 miles) with no ill effects. Due to the cold weather im back to pure diesel, it wouldnt start twice in december. Just gotta wait for spring now.... Regarding biodiesel, I bought a tankful from a place near the docks in Liverpool (legitimately!), I found it awful. My motor is happy between 75-80mph on the motorway but I couldn't even pass 65mph on bio. In the end I got around 400 miles from that tank due to putting my foot further down so what I saved at 78p per litre I lost in economy, I usually get 480-500 miles on a tank, more if its a big run. Stu.

I think a bit of chequer plate looks ok as long as it's not too OTT. I'm gonna do it beneath the rubbing strips on the sides of my Disco, I've already got a big crease along one door so a bit of armour wouldnt go amiss IMO. I'd like a tailgate card also, my original item has more or less given up now, full of cracks and just plain ugly. Kits from Paddock, MM etc al cost somewhere in the region of £80 whilst an 8x4 sheet of "5 bar Tread plate" costs about £40 from a local place. Making templates etc should be easy enough but when your only options are hack saw or jigsaw I'm thinking it might be wisest to by the kit! Stu.

Cheers guys. Pads were Apec, from my usual motor factors at £19.00 per set so dont appear to be cheapo's. (I hope!) Pumping doesn't firm the pedal up, it still creeps. I'm thinking it must be servo/master cylinder but I'm gonna try a bleed first cos thats the cheap option. I have noticed that I can see a lit bit of "bubbling" at the rearmost down pipe of the resevoir where it joins the master cylinder. Only when a bit of pressure is applied to tilt it though, not when pressing the brake. (I don't think, its hard to see). Thanks again. Stu EDIT: I just re read what you said Scoob, I was surprised at how filthy the brake fluid was. I replaced rear axle, brake popes and rear flexi hose a couple of months ago so a lot of that fluid should be pretty new.

Hi all. I've changed the front brake pads on my '94 Disco this morning. No issues when doing the job, everything very simple as you would expect. Before the change my pedal was really good. Firm, not too much travel etc. Now its creeping to within an inch of the floor when constant pressure is applied and I've not much stopping power either. Anyone got any sugestions why this problem has arisen all of a sudden, and how to remedy it? Stu.

Snorkel Bumper Missing Thanks for your patience. These pics show the snorkel, bumper and the absence of them. Stu.

Thanks Tony. I was a bit flustered when I posted yesterday. Stu.

This seems unreal to me at the moment. I got home from a weeks holiday in Cornwall yesterday. Checked the car Disco over when we returned (we used the wifes car to go away in), no problems, still had a stereo etc. I've got up this morning and looked out the window and realised my snorkle is missing. At first I thought maybe kids had pulled it off and trhon it in a garden or something equally stupid so had a walk up the street to see if I could see anything. No sign. On the way back to the car, to my horror, my bumper is gone also. I cant fu**in believe this. Please, keep an eye out for my bits. If anyone offers you them, say yes and let me know asap - 07825135190. Thanks all, I've put some pics here (http://forums.mud-club.com/viewtopic.php?t=49335) so you know what I'm on about. Stu.

Done exactly the same myself but used a 4 into 1 manifold in the engine bay. It's also possible to fit a crankcase breather but it requires drilling and tapping the cover, not got round to that one yet. Stu.

Condolences Si, I know what it feels like. I had a V8 rangie (Gassed) go the same way. Dont let it put you off tho, get back on the horse and spend that insurance money! Good luck m8 Stu.

Big blue drums in costco? I think its Havoline 10w - 40. Should be ok.

As mentioned above, give avast a look. I switched from AVG about 6 months ago. It really is miles better to live with and doesn't hog resources. I also switched from ZA to another free firewall from sygate, again, this is so much better than ZA. Aside from that, how much RAM are you running? I'd recommend at least 1gb to run XP well. Stu.

Damn. Wish I'd thought of that I ended up with a dirty big ratchet strap and a brace across the inside of the car, axle stand and trolley jack and six pair of hands! I really didn't think I could get the box out without removing the cross member. I think I'll put the bearing on "The List" for future attention. Thanks for the encouragement lads, just got to wait till tomorrow morning for my exhaust to arrive at the local place. A number of holes and splits in every section, happy days.... :ph34r: Stu.

Hi guys, just a quick update and a question. I'm halfway through the job, had to take the box out in the end. Thre was just no way of "Encouraging" the nose cone off the front of the box with the bell housing still attached so it had to come out. I've got my Dad and Brother coming round today to help me put it back in. It was a real struggle to drop it on my own, I think that £200 is looking better value all the time. My question is regarding play in the input shaft. How much is acceptable/expected on a 150000 mile car? I can see the input shaft bearing moving in its race and i'm thinking of cipx's comment above about it being knackered and responsible for my leaky seal. Wonder how long the new one will cope. I dont have a DTI and the box is going back in today regardless, i need to use it tomorrow. So how much of a wiggle will you accept, is it worth refurbishing it at some point in the future?

On the r380 box the G & T box breathers are at the top of the box (If you're underneath) about 6 inches apart. Tough to see without going from inside the vehicle. Stu.

A few years ago I put my 1979 VW Camper in Wigan Beetle Centre for an MOT and the subsequent work. During it's stay one of the mechanics had a welding mishap which literally blew some poor sods cal look bug to bits, set fire to the garage seriously damaging 15 vehicles, 6 of which were later written off. Mine was borderline and I was basically given the choice of a cheque or a repaired motor. I took the motor. Unfortunately I still had to pay for the MOT and the work I would hope that NK see sense and value your continued custom and "Do the right thing" as my guys did.