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Everything posted by Raumer

  1. I've got a 1983 110 as well. There are a few around. One thing to be careful of is getting parts that will fit it. There are a lot of changes from 1983 to even 1985. Things like the fuel tanks are different. A lot of parts suppliers say 1983 onwards without checking the very early ones. But plenty of knowledgeable people on her if you have any doubts. Always nice to see another early 110.
  2. The reduced head nuts that I've used in the past are k nuts. They have a flange and then a smaller nut that is also half thickness. We used them on exhaust manifolds for hillman imp engines as there was a similar issue.
  3. For those interested in the Escargo a Youtube series has just started on it: STRANGER LANDIES (Ep. 1) - ESARCO 8x8 | The Strangest, Rarest "Land Rover" You've EVER Seen! - YouTube
  4. I'll try and write the longer version. Will take a few days as probably need to do some diagrams. Surprisingly difficult without access to the data. The codes are normally in pairs. So for your example you've got BT - BB - 8N. First is probably for how fast or slow the injector is to start injecting. The second is probably how fast or slow for it to stop injecting. The final one would be to correct the amount of fuel delivered. The latest Euro 6 injectors can have up to 40 codes.
  5. My old day job was developing the Delphi diesel injectors for trucks. This included specifying and writing the coding requirements for them. Known as trimming the injectors. Also included teaching the trimming process within Delphi. Bosch and Delphi run similar systems for trimming. I've also done work for Denso and theirs are done a different way, no where near as good! You can run the injectors without inputting the codes without worrying about damage to the engine. The injectors are tested on an end of line test rig. The test plan runs the injector at set logics. Logics are just how long the signal going to the injector is - example: 500us, 750us, 1000us etc.... Record the fuel at each point and then compare to a master injector, or ideal fuel performance. The performance has to be within a certain range before any trimming is done. You can't use the trimming process to correct a 'bad' injector. So uncoded they can't be that far out - but far enough to affect emissions and fuel economy. Then you use the deviations from the ideal fuelling performance to creating the coding. That's the simple explanation, the detail is very complicated and very few people in either Delphi or Bosch understand the detail well enough to create new trimming set ups. Hopefully that makes sense. If anyone want's more detail or has got questions I'll have a go at answering them.
  6. Hi, Where are you going to get the galvanising done? We are based in Gloucester and are going to need to get some Landrover parts galvanised in the not too distant future. Regards Ed
  7. Will try and get hold of the vin and age for it. Apologies for the lack of details. I didn't realise that Landrover had built leaf sprung ones, I thought they were farmed out to other companies? Apparently this one has a truck cab and is relatively short wheelbase - sounds like a 110 then with the extra axle behind. Thanks Ed
  8. No pictures at the moment. All the details I have are that it is a 3.5 V8, LHD built for export. Just wondering if anyone knows anything about the 6x6's that Landrover were building in general - when, how many etc..... I've seen lots of information on the ones built by Hotspur (Sandringham) and by Foley but nothing on Landrover's own ones. Ed
  9. Morning all, My brother recently came across a 6x6 Landrover that was built by Landrovers special products division. Relatively short wheelbase and with a V8 fitted and a drive thru axle. Does anyone have any details on when they were building them, what they were for or basically anything about them? So far he has not been able to find out anything about them. Cheers Ed
  10. I recently changed the head gasket on our 110 fitted with 200 tdi disco engine. All went well except for two oil leaks. The first is from the oil pipe going to the turbo (bolts in the top of the turbo). There is a weeping leak from it. I've put new washers, same as sump plug ones, on but it still leaks. I'm nervous of tightening the bolt up too far as it is hollow. Does anyone have the torque figure for it and any recommendations for redoing it? The 2nd oil leak seems to be from the cam cover. It's got new gasket but doesn't seem to be helping. Any other options or thoughts on how to cure it? Cheers Ed
  11. Hi, A while ago I ordered a load of suspension bushes for our 110. It didn't them at the time but useful to top up a paddocks order. I'm now in need of bushes for the lower rear suspension arms. The part no. for the bushes is NTC1772. But I have a pile of bushes with part no.s of MRP2218, MRP2222 and MRP2223. Any ideas which are the ones I want? Or does anyone have approximate measurements for the bushes and I'll do it that way. Thanks Ed
  12. For trucks and heavy vehicles currently diesel is your only option. Electric is a non-starter for most applications as you lose too much load & towing capability. Same goes for diesel electric hybrids. Biggest single issue with a modern diesel issue is transient emissions. There is no control over the transient emissions when you are accelerating. Watch a lot of modern cars on the road and you will see a puff of black smoke as they accelerate. Lots of technical reasons why modern systems do this to a far greater extent than the older systems. Electric cars just more the emissions to a different point so not really a long term improvement and have very low tow limits. Hydrogen is a great idea except for the fact that you have to create the hydrogen in the first place and then pressurise it. Only leaves you with a couple of real options. Either a bio fuel of some form (for a petrol or a diesel engine) or gas. At work we are working towards gas systems for trucks that will work very well and slot in place of the existing diesel system. But so far this is seen as a small player. Legislation changes could change that. But all of the above is based on engineering and not what sounds best politically. In reality we've had press and politics against petrol for the last decade or so and now it is against diesel. Leave it a few more years and it will pick out another target. It helps keep car companies in business and keeps the public spending lots of money. Whilst avoiding the sheer volume of emissions created by building all the new vehicles and all the other products we buy. So go with whichever option you like most and wait for somebody in a few years time to launch the electric conversion kit for classic landrovers. Ed
  13. Hi, Whereabouts in the UK are you? My parents recently sold the one that had been sitting in their back garden for a number of years and I know it is being restored. For the brake system how have you piped it up? The original Volvo setup was twin line with each line doing one cylinder on each front wheel and then one of the rear wheels. Maybe worth blocking the brakes overnight and seeing if it helps. Or try bleeding across the master cylinder, then the next joint etc... Maybe a high point trapping air in the braking system somewhere. Regards Ed
  14. Thanks for the link to the parts manual very useful and has answered all my questions. For the rubber bumpers that the panels mount on to there are two types listed - 338553 and 338550. The 338553 are no longer available but apparently you can use the 338550 instead. The proper studs and rubber bumpers are fairly inexpensive to hold the quarters on. For the roof I'll probably go for run of the mill stainless bolts and washers. Thanks Ed
  15. We are about to start converting our 110 double cab to a station wagon. It started life as a station wagon and then the previous owner converted it to a double cab. Not the best of jobs with no end of leaks etc...... We have now got a county roof, rear door and rear quarters to fit. The overall job is fairly straightforward but struggling to work out a couple of the smaller bits. Main questions are what type of bolts hold the rear quarters to the tub and what rubber mounts are needed? Also where to get them from. We have got the roof bolts sorted and have glazing tape for sealing the roof to the body. Cheers Ed
  16. Thanks for the info guys. We've had to get at the battery quite a bit recently due to starting issues. Also although the range rover seats are nice I'd prefer to have defender ones. Long term I do want to fit an anderson connector. Thanks Ed
  17. Hi all, I have finally got fed up of having to unbolt the range rover front seats I have fitted in our 110 whenever I need to get to the battery. Can anyone tell me if TD5 defender seats will bolt into a 1983 110 CSW? I'm sure I've read somewhere before that all the tdi ones will fit but that TD5 ones wont'. Just can't find anything to agree or disagree now and there are lots of TD5 front seats coming up. Thanks Ed
  18. Sounds like the vehicles are being run on bio-diesel. Do you have a fuel storage tank for the works vehicles? If so the problem is most likely in the storage tank. The main things to check are how long the fuel is sitting in the tank and how full the tank is. Ideally you want the fuel to stay in the tank for as short a time as possible. As the tank goes below full you start to get moisture forming that then ends up in the fuel. So far as I know there isn't an additive to get rid of things like this. Best bet is to clean out the tank, change over to normal diesel for a while and then possibly change to a different fuel supplier. Regards Ed
  19. Thanks all for the info, should hopefully make my life a bit easier! Looking underneath the landrover last night it looks like I need to undo the rear anti-roll bar as well. Also couldn't see anything that looked like a guard or cradle. Might be more noticeable as I start to do the job. Thanks Ed
  20. All, Our landrover is starting to show a leak from the fuel tank. I'm planning to change it next week to a new one. But just a few questions to hopefully make things go a bit smoother! The landrover is 1983 110 CSW V8 that a previous owner fitted a new chassis to and converted to a discovery 200tdi engine. My guess is that the fuel tank is the original V8 one. So what I need to know is: What fuel tank do I need order - I've seen different ones for the petrol & diesel etc... Where is a good place to order it from? Are there any other seals etc.... that I need to order at the same time? Any advice on how to do it etc... would be gratefully received! The rear load bay of the landrover has chequer plate over it that is not easy to remove. Will this make the job any harder or no difference? Many thanks Ed
  21. Engine brakes also have a nasty side effect. They increase the temperature in the cylinders. This can cause problems with overheating the nozzles on the injectors leading to premature failure. Trucks are now looking at other methods using variable vane turbo's etc.... to try and keep the temperatures down. I would look at making sure the brakes on the trailer are up to scratch and possibly look at fitting a linked braked system. Regards Ed
  22. Many thanks. Glad to know I'm not losing my few remaining marbles!
  23. Hi, I have a fairey pto winch that I am slowly starting to fit to the landrover. The winch is on and the next bit is to sort out new uj's on the driveshaft. I am certain I saw mention of a conversion to use landrover steering uj's instead of expensive ones from superwinch! I have had a search through the technical archive but can't find anything listed. Could someone please point me the correct direction or point out that memory is faulty! Thanks Ed
  24. Hi, I've got a 110 fitted with a 200tdi discovery engine. For the insurance company I need to write down the engine number. Whereabouts is it located?? Thanks Ed
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