Scooby Jim

I put up the MOT manual, where does Vosa actually say that??

As the body is separate to the chassis as long as the chassis mounts are strong and the hole they bolt into are again strong then you'll be fine. As the bracket you make up will be the body, and as long as the mounts are well made and strong it can`t really fail. My Sportrak I just sold had 3 inch plastic spacer blocks, and the MOT man said that as long as the chassis brackets are ok, and there floor where the spacer makes contact is sound then its fine. So if you could find some way of using the SW body mounts then your onto a winner.

No idea about the belt, but the Landy looks in good nick and should be a great project. Another one saved.

I have had HIDS in previous cars and with standard lights, I used H7R and H4 hi/lo. And the MOT man said NOTHING about no auto levellers or headlamp washers as the were NOT fitted, and also were never there in the first place. The beam cut offs were within tolerance (at the time) as the bulbs had covers over so weren't plain bulbs (which spread the light everywhere). I even had the police pull my mate over (both side by side on a dual carriageway) as his Audi (OEM) xenons were blinding him, and mine were "Absolutely fine". They can only fail if the levellers are there and NOT working.

I have the full test on PDF if you want it?? But should be fine my Vectra and my Impreza had them. But now I have Halfords 130watt/90watt H4 bulbs

Exactly, it doesn't say MUST. So if they aren't fitted you can`t fail. If they are fitted and don't work, then that is a fail.

As far as I understand its like this. The OEM ones have to have levellers and washers to be legal, if you retro fit HID/Xenons then you don`t have to have the levellers and washers as they weren`t fitted as standard. And if you do fit them then they MUST work. Here is the MOT manual, not sure if its been amended since.

Be careful. I had H4 hi-lo in my Classic Impreza, and the loom caught fire. The headlamp hi-lo controller has twin +ve feed to it, and if water gets in (like mine), then the wiring shorts and the fuses one for each side do not blow so it catches fire. I luckily smelt the wiring going, and managed to rip the earths off so it stopped the problem. But the H4 ones do give a decent cut off as the bulb sits in a shroud, and fires back and fore to do high and low beam. For MOT they can ONLY test what is there, so if you have no levellers or washers then they can`t test them. The major downfall is cut off of the beam, as the centre point of the brightest part of the bulb will be in a slightly different place from Halogen to HID, so the cut off will be slightly different, its all a matter of how much out.

Brackets on the top of the wings, I have a pair of the lower stays. Although now I have some part numbers I'll see if I can get some luck searching. MRC5504 and MRC5505, with MRC5511 being the studs.

I have a Petrol and am keeping an eye on Ebay. I need the lot as mine has no keys, and is broken. Also was in a Bearmach earlier and they don't list anything for the steering lock mech type, so will have to get second hand. Bearmach also don't list the brackets either, hence the request on here to see if anyone knows where I could get them.

Where can I get some or am I better off making a set?? Also where can I get a steering lock and key mechanism?? Would one off a 90 be able to be used.

Cheers for that, atleast I know now. If I don`t bother with the steering lock type that will be handy info, cheers.

Cheers for that, I would like a new barrel for it but I guess being older they made it in one piece??

Where can I get one of these from then??

Well there is definitely a hole on the column and I have bolted up the ignition barrel to the column over the hole and the lock worked, obviously had to remove the lock again as I have no key, so I'll see about getting one. What initially threw me is that 99.9% of cars have their ignition barrel when fitted to the column on the right hand side of the steering wheel, this fits with the key on the left, but something I will get used to.

Cheers guys, after a damn good look and removing what is left of the dashboard. I guess that the steering lock ignition switch was supposed to be on there (there is a cut out in the column for the lock), so I guess the new switch I have is wrong. The lock had been removed and was dangling down and I couldn't see the position where it would fit, I can either get a replacement so I can have a steering lock, or fit the new switch and hide it somewhere. So hmmmm decisions decisions.

Stupid question but I have looked on Google and on here and can`t get the answer I'm looking for. I have this key and switch setup ready to go into my Series 3 V8. Bought as a petrol ignition switch. My question is why doe the key turn left?? The key goes in rotates one click to the right (clockwise), then another which springs back (usual ignition switch). But mine also rotates to the left (anti-clockwise). Why is this?? Is it a glow plug heater switch, meaning I have a diesel ignition switch, or is it just a way of turning the ignition on without risk of starting, or is it something else that I don`t know about??? I have removed the standard ignition barrel, and steering lock, as mine doesn`t have the hole for the locking mechanism, and I didn't have the keys when I bought it, and the barrel was hanging down unattached. So I apologise for my apparent stupidity, but I'd rather I check before fitting something that is wrong.

Going from the Rover 3500 V8 SD1 Haynes manual. It also says Ignition timing Static 6 degrees BTDC. Dynamic (with distributor vacuum pipe removed) 10Degrees BTDC at 1200rpm 17Degrees BTDC at 1800rpm 22Degrees BTDC at 2600rpm

Cool, was considering using some pipework I had left over from a Vauxhall 3.0 V6, where it uses a vacuum controlled bypass valve. But then found this, bit pricey, but a simpler system could be made. http://www.ebay.co.u...b#ht_1754wt_906

Hi guys, I have a question about my heaters. I've an early series 3 converted to run a 3.5 V8. The original engine is long gone but it would have had a valve to allow hot water into the matrix. What can I use as I don`t have anything like this, or do I block off the water pipes, or just leave it flowing into the matrix permanently??

Would be good to restore the engine so its running nicely, and to get the guts of it preserved. But as for the outside I`d just clean it, and leave it as it is. Too many get overly restored imho, you see it a lot with Early Beetles, and Split screen vans. Look great but lose their originality imho. Would be great to see it preserved for the future unmolested by an over enthusiastic new owner.