Scooby Jim

Cheers bud, I tended to leave the hubs in lock on my old Sportrak, as I was too lazy to get out and change them as sods law was that they needed changing in the muddy stuff. But I did unlock them for a long journeys so that I saved a tiny bit of fuel. I'm going to assume that the fronts are the same as the rear in that they are 10 spline. This was the gist I had from the previous owner about the drive issue. "I was off road and stuck in the mud (beached) and couldn't get out, put it in 4x4 and tried to use the engine power, there was a clunk and the engine revs and the prop spins (think he said that about the prop) but the wheels do nothing. I'm pretty sure it's a diff issue, but not had anything apart to find out."

What I am going to do when I get chance is get a metal wheely bin, and cut a hole in the front to fit a glass panel in to see, two holes for arms to go through and an old strip light under the lid. This would make a mobile blasting cabinet that I can use for storage when not in use.

Right here goes, am rebuilding my 1972 Land Rover project See here.http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=78059&hl= Anyhoo I was putting my trolley jack back into my garage and as I trundled it past the Land Rover I had a thought. I know there was an issue with lack of drive, and was told by the previous owner it was a diff issue. Well the rear half shafts are ok, so to come back to the trolley jack, I hadn't checked the front. So jacked up the front axle and put the locking hubs to lock, and rotated the passenger wheel, the drivers wheel did not move (was expecting it to rotate the opposite direction), so went around to the drivers side and again no reaction from the opposite wheel. So put the gearbox into gear and in low ratio ( I think) and tried turning one of the wheels, hoping that with the prop locked would make the locking hub lock if it wasn't engaged, and then again it did nothing. I have also put the transfer lever into neutral, and turned the prop by hand and there is no change with the front wheels. BUT There is a slightly strange noise when turning the prop, but I rotated the prop through the footwell so couldn`t tell where the sound was coming from. I have had quite a bit of experience with free wheeling hubs made by ASIN, and usually when they were gunked up turning the wheel with the prop locked and the locker locked would be enough to pop it into life. But having not taken these SELECTRO hubs apart I'm unsure if they work with a spring or with just the rotation of the dial. So would you guys say that the differential is gone, or the hubs are locked open?? Is there an "easy" way of checking the diff?? I'll have a look properly when I finally get the engine running as that should shake a lot of things into working or not lol.

I have the very same one and it will be moisture in the pipe/grit. Check the connector on the hose to the hopper, this has a hole in the side and if mine gets clogged it's usually there. Failing that; If you take the gun off and clean that up, you will need to hold the grit feed up and "massage" the pipe so the grit falls back into the hopper. You'll be wanting to put it in the oven at 200 degrees for an hour or so, that will get rid of any moisture. Oh the way it works is the air supply through the gun creates a vacuum in the hopper tube so sucking up grit.

That should do the job. I had an incident a few years ago with my Daihatsu Sportrak off road, and a twig broke through the rad core and I was on my own. Went through my glove box and I only had Holts GunGum/Firegum (I can't remember which), and I put a blob on and left it dry. This managed not only to hold the pressure, but held for best part of 2 years as I forgot about it, and it was only the core falling apart made me replace it so I remembered.

Cool. Thats better, cheers. Anyone got one for sale? lol.

Cool will have a look. Where can I get hold of the correct terminal for the alternator??

Interesting if you look further down you can see the same alternator as mine and its correct plug. Looks like its a "battery sensing" model???

This is the bracket. I'll have a look for one.

I'll have a look for that alternator. Only thing that bothers me about the diagram is that it shows two large connections, marked as +ve and one small. Mine has One large and two small, which may sound like splitting hairs, but I just want to make sure its right. I've a Bosch 120amp alternator from a Vauxhall in my garage and was going to see if that would fit as its only a main thick cable and a battery warning light, and I've the Vauxhall cabling here, but it won't fit the bracket.

Failing an upgrade, can anyone confirm what these connectors do? Obviously the larger is the main charge, but what are the other two?? The only replacement connector I can seem to find are two large connectors, one small.

Hi I currently have a Lucas 18ACR alternator on my Series V8, and I'm after something that can do a bit more than 45amps. As I want to eventually fit a winch and spot lamps / flood lamps. What can I directly fit in the place of the 18ACR, obviously not concerned with upgrading the cabling, as I'm going to do that anyway. Just surprised its such a large alternator and produces only 45amps, I have had one 1/3 the size that produced more.

Went and got a rotary sander today, should do the job.

Sorry to barge in but has anyone got any pics of one fitted in a series?

Awesome pictures. Would love to do something like that. Would be nice to see a route overview, as that looks awesome!! Bet Tomtom didn't cover those tracks lol.

As above, like painting a banksy on the Mona Lisa.

0.80 according to Haynes?? Me I'd do it with a strobe.

Cool yeah I know its an early pushrod design, the Small block Buick 215. So for an off the shelf equivalent I'd be looking at http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_storeId_10001_catalogId_10151_productId_166289_langId_-1_categoryId_165581 £19 for 5l I also get from the Rover 3500 manual that the capacity when changing the filter is 5.5 litres??

Just double checking but my Haynes Manual for the Rover 3500 V8 says MultiGrade engine oil, viscosity SAE 10w/30, or 10w/40, 10w/50, or 15w/50 to BLS22-OL-02. * Duckhams Reccomendation Duckhams QXR Hypergrade 10w/40. * Austin Rover specify a 10w/40 oil to meet warranty requirements for models produced after August 1983. Duckhams QXR and 10w/40 Motor Oil are available to meet these requirements. Is it that the engines are now a bit worn so need something a bit thicker??

My point exactly. I used to do that with my dads tools when I was 12/13, not very late 40's early 50's.

Not yet but I'm biding my time. Can`t go ape as the guy is one of the "senior" members that has all the influence, so I'm best of picking my moment wisely.

I lent and engine crane and an engine stand to an older friend in a car club, as he had a bit of work to do. He always came across as a tidy guy and seemed to look after his things, so I didn`t think twice. Well after 4-5 weeks I went to collect them as he was out, the engine crane and stand had obviously been left outside in the rain for 4-5 weeks, as the bolts were rusty (I hadn`t got a spot of rust on them in 4 years) and they were soaking, the tray from the engine stand was even used as a base for a disposable bbq. Lets just say I was absolutely TAMPING!!! He will NEVER have more than a cold off me now!!

Have you any details on the remote servo??

Point 1. DVA is the Northern Ireland (Driving Vehicle Agency) http://www.dvani.gov.uk/ And is NOT VOSA or the DVLA but a separate entity with separate rules, that do not apply to UK (mainland) road users. Point 2. The link you provided is NOT a statement of Law or compliance, it is a view that they SHOULD be illegal and it is their VIEW that you should fit a new complete lamp if you want Xenons. That link you posted was banded about on car forums ages ago, before the current MOT handbook came out, and was never put into legislation or practice, but a typical scare tactic. All they did was amend the beam pattern in the MOT test that made most HID kits illegal, as their pattern was out of tolerance so cars failed. Which due to the carp beam pattern I totally agree with. They also state "For the aftermarket, a used vehicle cannot obtain type approval because this only applies to new vehicles. However DfT does not think it reasonable simply to ban HID in the aftermarket. Instead the Department makes analogies with new vehicles. It seems reasonable to require HID in the aftermarket to meet the same safety standards as those for new vehicles. The same level of safety should apply." The MOT was tightened up to address the HID headlight issue, and specifically the glare and incorrect beam pattern. As the MOT is the governments way of making sure each road vehicle is LEGAL for use, and complies with all current legislation. What is the basis of the checks on an MOT test?? Its checking that components work and adheer to the relevant laws and conditions of use. Take the recent ACE hype about the propsed EU changes due to modifications, it is at the MOT station your car would be deemed fit for road (legally compliant) use or not (illegal). This is the current beam pattern info. The legislation is here The Road Vehicles Lighting Regulations 1989. http://www.legislati...schedule/4/made The other being UNIFORM PROVISIONS CONCERNING THE APPROVAL OF VEHICLES WITH REGARD TO THE INSTALLATION OF LIGHTING AND LIGHT-SIGNALLING DEVICES UNITED NATIONS. http://www.unece.org...regs/r48r6e.pdf

Key quote is A spokesman for VOSA denied that this was the case. He said: “If a car has the washing and self-levelling system then we’ll check it and it will need to be in full working order. If it’s not there, we don’t check it – we give the owner the benefit of the doubt.”