Log

Blimey that was a quick reply! Thanks Les! I cant afford to get a galvanised chassis so thought this would be a good option considering the rear crossmember is usually the first to suffer from the brown blight. I assume that due to the construction of the crossmember, it would be unlikely to warp during the galvanising process? also, and this may sound like a stupid question but, when using the wire brush to remove the coating, how do I know when I have removed the coating and am down to the bare steel? Is this easy to tell or am I going to have to judge when I have gone through one shiny metal (zinc) to another shiny metal (steel)? Log

Hyall Have a new rear crossmember with extensions for my 110 and was thinking.....would it be a good idea to get it galvanised then remove the coating from the extension ends using an angle grinder with twisted wire brush so they can be welded to the rest of the chassis? Anyone done this and how easy was it to remove the galvanising? Log

Matt Thanks for that. I can understand the theory but as you say its not the best solution. I'll stick with my snorkel. Besides, it talks to me (when my wifes not there!) Log

Will someone please answer this question before more people get ripped off!! Log

So its okay for you to do it but not a trained police driver. Hmmmm! Log

Perhaps you should read the instructions on the tin next time! Hammerite can take weeks to cure. Lof

Take everything said on a forum with a pinch of salt! and NEVER, EVER disagree with your wife! Log

Don't listen to them! 90's are ten a penny. 110 Station Wagons are like hens teeth. Just try looking for a good one and you will see what I mean. Log

Can't help thinking that one of these days all those 'double cab' owners are going to be enquiring about how to convert thier vehicles into 110 station wagons which are much more practical. Log

Ive had De-Carbon shocks on my 110 for the last 80 K miles. They transformed the handling and are still like new. Would fit them again without hesitation. Log

Looks like another fanny motor to me and nothing to do with Land Rovers. Log

I bought one of these from Jessops a year ago. It was faulty so I got a replacement. Whilst it then did work, I was very disappointed with the quality of the scans. They were very grainy and nothing like the quality of the picture you would see when using a slide projector. I took it back and got a refund. Perhaps the more expensive ones produce better quality scans but they are out of my price range at the moment. Log

Not good adverts for snorkel manufacturers! Log

Well, maybe when they decommision all those wolf's cos they don't meet the latest emission requirements, I'll get one and see! Cheers all.

I know the diff unit was a pain to work on (ie: remove it in the first place) but having said that they were pretty tough (at least the diff unit was, not the half shafts). Thats interesting though. Thanks chaps. Log

Well bugger me sideways with a pink feather! I'm a bit behind the times. Are they standard 90 diffs or are they upgraded for greater towing capacity, load, etc, that the 110 used to have? Log

I heard from someone today that the latest Defender 110's don't use the good old Salisbury but just a regular 90 type. Can anyone confirm this? Log

Well I for one wont be buying BF Goodrich tyres again. For many years I used the Track Edge tyres on my Range Rover & Defender and found they were excellent on & off road. The trouble is that after a while the damn things start to crack up on the sidewalls, usually next to the wheel rim. Also had the same problem with the AT's fitted to my Discovery. The tyres and wheels were all reasonably standard sizes (ie: not oversize) and always run at LR recomended pressures. The last set of Track Edges I had were returned to the manufacturers who admitted there was a fualt and reimbursed me (this was just before they stopped selling them). I have no complaints re the customer service but I wont trust thier tyres again. Cheers Log

Forget all this nonsense about spraying various chemicals onto the belts/pulleys. It will work for a few days/weeks but the squeel always comes back again. I have had this problem on both my 300Tdi's (Defender & Disco) and despite trying new tensioner pulleys, new ancillary pulleys, so called anti squeel belts, etc, the only solution I found that actually works Permanantly is to place a 1mm thick washer at the 9 o'clock position, between the tensioner housing and the coolant pump support bracket. What this does to the belt Im not sure but it has definately worked on both my vehicles and has had no undesireable effects. Cheers Log

What I said! Log

"Yes, you can easily do it with the box in situ. Not that I have" Thats tempting fate!!!

Honest Im not doing it on purpose!! Okay dont believe me but when i click on the add reply button to post a comment on a topic, I get a 'Server Error. The transaction has been cancelled' warning. But when I then click the button again, it works, however it has posted my reply twice. Is this happening to anyone else or am I just drinking too much whisky? Log

What about the stuff theyre painting the Forth Rail Bridge with. Thats got glass in it. Give em a phone! Log

What about the stuff theyre painting the Forth Rail Bridge with. Thats got glass in it. Give em a phone! Log