Raggylad

Just sent a tenner. The forum is excellent - but it is not the only one (other interests besides Land Rovers !) that I support; it all mounts up. Keep up the good work.

Many thanks for both replies - so basically I can go ahead & remove it all (replacing with a simple hose) without any bad effect, as I hoped. Mikec - you have a PM.

My inclination is to get rid of it, so I agree with you (Not Mo !). Rusty metal pipe is where the air come in from the air filter & is then split between the 2 alloy U bends to the carbs. I have seen a single BLOS setup there (on another forum) which is said to work better than the current mixers at each carb. To do this, I would have to remove the detox pipery highlighted in the photo (which I believe is some sort of cold start pre-heat mechanism). My question remains - what is the effect of removing all this stuff (if any) & what, if anything, needs to be done where the warm air pipes come up from the box on the manifold 9arrowed) ?

Here (I hope !) is the photo: http://i209.photobucket.com/albums/bb127/RaggyladXIX/IMGP0835A.jpg

I am intending to fit a BLOS LPG variable venturi mixer/carburettor. To do so, I need to remove the cold start bit of the detox pipery (orange box on photo), as I want to mount it where the air intake pipe from the air filter connects to the metal air intake manifolds. What is the likely effect of doing this - is it of any significance ? Once the cold start bit is removed, would I need to do anything about the gaping holes left where the manifold end of the pipes are at the moment (arrow) ? Many thanks. Edit - hope this makes sense without the photo - can't get the so & so thing to upload !

LT95 gearknob - still attached after 6 months. Mind you, not much to go wrong with it. Wiper blades were c**p.

Thanks for all the excellent advice. I'll start with the wiring, terminals & connections, proceed through the whacking then (if no luck) go for the strip down. Nick

I am having an intermittent starting problem (about 1 time in 5) with my 1983 V8 (LT95 gearbox). Turning the ignition on produces the normal lights - but not even a starter solenoid click. The battery is good and all connections seem sound The temporary solution (learned years ago with an MGB) is to put it into gear (1st or reverse) and rock it backwards & forwards against engine compression; 9 times out of 10, the engine starts on the next turn of the key. While this is OK for a while, my back will eventually give out ! The vehicle has only had intermittent use during that last 9 months while I have been away in Iraq; I gave it a full (6,000 mile interval) service before using it & all seemed normal. Any ideas on what might be causing the problem & possible solutions ? A search of the forum has not proved much help. Thanks. Nick

Had the drums off. Shoes fitted the wrong way round. Now all sorted. Many thanks for all the advice.

Thanks for all the advice. I'll have the drums off and have a look. Nick

I recently (3 months ago) had new rear brake shoes & adjusters fitted during a 48,000 mile service by the local LR specialist garage. Come the 3,000 mile/3 month interval service, I felt that the travel on the brake pedal was on the long side before the brakes bit and (following the Porter Service Guide Manual) went to adjust the rear brakes. Could not get the adjusters (all 4 of them) to achieve any effect at all in locking up the rear wheels - or even any noticeable drag. They turn OK in both directions (carefully counting as I do so) - but the wheel still spins and there is no obvious 'clicking' feeling that you normally get from drum brake adjusters! Braking effect is fine, just long pedal travel and my unease at adjusters that apparently don't adjust. I am probably doing something stupid. Grateful for any advice - can't find anything via Forum Search

Quite correct for non-stainless steels, but incorrect for stainless. If you isolate stainless from the air, you eventually get what is known in the marine engineering world as crevice corrosion; it tends to form in the threads of bolts, the corners of deck fittings and suchlike confined spaces. A classic is the turnbuckles for yacht mast standing rigging, which people tend to cover to prevent ropes snagging and also the stainless wire rigging itself which corrodes deep in the strands & fails with no visible warning of decay - expensive ! The best way to avoid crevice corrosion in stainless is to leave it exposed to the air; the stainless properties are in the oxidised outer surface of the steel - which needs oxygen to maintain its integrity in areas exposed to potentially corrosive forces.

What are the pros & cons of removing the Pulsair system from my 3.5 V8 (15G prefix, running on Strombergs) ? I know that the blanking plugs can be got from Craddocks, etc. What does removal do to performance ? Emissions ? Will I need to re-tune after removal ? Any advice gratefully received - thanks.

I can vouch for AlternatorMart. Excellent Service, rapid delivery & good advice (I was upgrading from a 45A to 75A alternator); price was good, too.

I use wheel ramps at one end & axle stands at the other if I need to get all 4 corners up. Much safer !

Partly alluded to above - you need to think about how to clear noxious vapour from the pit as most hydrocarbon vapours are heavier than air and will gather in the bottom. Not good for breathing or if you are using power tools ! Water drain pump would do it (its how yotties clear the bilges of such things), but you would need one that was capable of running dry for up to a couple of minutes.

Bottle jack (3 tonne model from Halfords) for me as well. Support it on a 2' offcut from a scaffolding plank.

Still got the Matterhorns that I was issued for Bosnia in the winter of 1996. Brilliant for long cold stints in a Warrior turret or on stag and for winter offroading. Completely waterproof with good Goretex lining. Lousy, however, if you want to walk more than a couple of hundred metres; leather is very soft once broken in (hence good in the cab), offering not much support on rough ground and the Thinsulate insulation is so good that it feels as though your feet are in saunas - blister city ! Not cheap, either.

Drove that road about 15 years ago in an MGB - fantastic ! Otherwise, TG was not up to its best. Honourable exception for Helen Mirren ?

Many thanks - but yes I have one now. An original and for rather less than £70 - though that's a fair price for a re-engineered item. Funnily enough through the Stage 1 V8 Forum. Put it on Ebay or the Stage 1 Forum - somebody will rip your arm off for it ! Nick

You can drive on to Benone Strand in Co Londonderry. Got to be one of the most beautiful beaches in the UK. Its legal - the Polis patrol on a quad during the summer !

Fully agree with all the above. Bearing savers were a waste of money on my boat trailer & I now do the strip & repack after every 2 or 3 immersions. Thinking outside the box, however, I fitted a 'Hubflush' (I've lost the URL, but a google on that name should throw it up) system last year; worth every penny. Very easy to fit & use; guarantees that all salt water, mud, c**p, etc is well flushed out. Its what lets me stretch to 3 immersions before repacking.

Many thanks - very helpful. Now in no doubt !

Thanks for the offer - very kind. Afraid I don't get over your side of the country often at the moment, so I'll have to pass. Moving to Wiltshire in November, however, & if I haven't got some by then & you are still offering I'll be in touch. On the original question: Both Beamends & Craddocks parts lists have NRC7578PM (superceded by ANR4636PM) listed as for 90/110. Craddocks describe them as 5.5F x 16 with 33mm inset. Can't find any reference to differing insets on 90/110 wheels - though it is there for Series SWB/LWB. Thanks for all the replies (here & elsewhere, Rob !) - looks like there isn't a difference, so long as I don't get Series wheels !

Thanks - that's what I suspected, but don't wan't to spend beer tokens only to find that the rims aren't up to a 110's weight.