Bowie69

You can fit the electrics without the socket, or maybe someone has removed the grey socket, but left the wiring in place. I suppose you could use it to run other stuff, but TBH I'd just wire it in a more standard way, run fresh fused, relayed wires from a known power source (the battery and an ignition live if necessary). Using some electrical for something it wasn't designed for often ends up with your car in flames, and you never know what the PO did to it

It's the wiring/split charge relay for a 12S (the grey one) socket for towing a caravan/camper.

Well I expect they should be, but via the chassis? I actually ran a separate earth lead on mine, as I wanted it for the winching capability and wanted to ensure a good connection between them for minimum losses.

Oh no, not another engine bun fight!

TBH, it is likely to be cheaper and certainly easier to get an exchange recon from Ashcrofts.

Is this your mac, Fridge?

Well the rim won't pinch the tyre as much, so the width of the rim does affect the overall height of a rim/tyre combination. However..... you won't notice any difference in all honesty, and I think 235 tyres are better on 7" rims.

Thank you Toby! /me slaps Ross And the 2.5l Turbo Diesel Rangie engine was a VM, there was a 2.4l version previously

Thats a 2.5t Rangie, not 2.5l, Ross

Yes, or as near as worthwhile, effectively you are diluting the bad oil with fresh each time.

If oil level is brown... that's not a good sign, should be a clear red in colour. I'd get it changed (and the filter) and fingers crossed it keeps it going for a while, but ultimately brown ATF is bad news

TBH, the 2.5l is slow (~80BHP or thereabouts?), and very very thirsty (<20mpg) whereas a V8 is at least fast, and gives similar mpg. My 2.25l series running road bias tyres only gets 17mpg, with a long journey, I am sure a V8 would get a similar figure if fitted in the same vehicle, especially megasquirted, as I get 15mpg towing with my 2.5t Range Rover!

Yep, as above, remove starter, I use a small piece of angle iron which grips two teeth and wedges very nicely in place

Well bring your tank guard with you

Well, I suppose it depends what you want for it...... any ideas? I am tempted TBH

That guard is from a V8 RRC, with the earlier metal tank.... Well, when you collect the Tbox and look at the tyres you can trial fit the tank guard at the same time if you like *edit* Just checked Microcat and the Disco /RRC plastic fuel tanks are identical part numbers.....

Now that is a bit odd, I was under the impression that all Discos did have the plastic tank.... Similar thread here btw: http://forums.lr4x4....2&st=0&p=130932 Do you know for sure it came off a Disco, or is that just what the seller said....?

Disco has plastic tank as well, so an RRC one that fits a plastic tanked RRC should fit a Disco as well. I think the main difference is the rear of the tank and how far it cames down, a small difference here will mean a large difference at the front of the guard.... And yes, I don't have a complete, working Range Rover at the moment It's been going under surgery recently, and these are bits I no longer require

Yup... 65l was the most I ever put in it And that looks like a stock fuel tank to me.

<£100 for gaskets, piston and replacement cylinder head, vs how much for a 4.6? Tough choice Looks exactly how my lightweight piston did.... just yours is worse First time it happened I took it all apart, found the problem, replaced piston, left the head well alone, and ran a bit of wet'n'dry down the bore before inserting the piston, bolted it all up and it'd been great Second time it happened (as I couldn't work out WTF the screw had come from in the first place) I pulled the head, tapped the screw out of the piston (still pretty screw shaped) and bolted it all back together, been like that for thousands of miles now Not suggesting you do this, but sometimes you can get away with more than you think... like maybe that cylinder head isn't scrap... a good skim and it may be alright, skim the other the same and you have a matched pair. Have you skimmed them before? If so did you allow for the extra thickness of the composite gaskets...? Just thinking of options Well done persevering

Is yours plastic and his metal? The tank guard, if a Southdown type, was designed for the metal tank only in the early days, and redesigned for the plastic one at a later date, so it fits both. If it is just that it is the plastic tank, then I have one here you can have, for the right fee Got the full tow pack and adjustable slider etc with it as well. As for the volume, the standard one is 90l, yes, but when the light comes on, my experience is that it still has about 25 litres in it.... *edit* I have a spare, known good plastic fuel tank if yours is no good (too big), I don't need it anymore!

It's not a new cam, it has ~5000 miles on it! Of course if you have new of both you can swap to a different style of lifters without issue.

Erm, I think we have a crossed wire here I was talking about swapping the entire axle (tube, diff, pumpkin, swivels, hubs, brakes etc) not just the diff /3rd member as the yanks like to call it. The LC80 axles are wider track, or at least when I looked closesly into it they were about 2" or so wider, of course I may be mistaken, it was ~18 months ago I looked into it As for strength, the difference in shock loading a 35" wheel or shock loading a 29" wheel is massive, and this is where a lot of breakages occur, rather than application of torque whilst driving it. *edit* LC80 axles are 63.5" wide, LR coil sprung variants are 58.5" wide, so that's 2.5" each side, meaning no need for silly offset wheels once fitted

Rear patrol is a centrerd diff isn't it? LC80 axles are the correct offset for LR fitment too

I believe so, yes.Look at the date of the original post