Bowie69

Was gonna say, some tiny weeny cable ties would be neatest.

Thanks Roger, I replied on my phone so was somewhat brief Agree with all points above

Your shortlist seems to be full of a lot of heavyweight motors.... I would look for either as above, an MX-5, or one of the less popular Mazda coupes, or a little hot hatch, Peugot 106/Clio/Golf GTI (older the better)/MG ZR 25 thingy/MGF/Suzuki Swift (the quick one)/Honda Civic VVC. Then you can also look at the smaller Jap coupes, such as the Mitsu FTO, Nissan 200 etc, there are some rsuty ones out there for the sort of money he is looking to spend.... For a laugh, what about a V12 Jag

No regs at all, hence availability of DIY kits....Moving is a case of re-plumbing and securing the tanks, and if moving inside you need to ensure any leaks are routed to the outside if the vehicle.It's not a quick job, and needs to be done properly if safe.

How much short? If the studs are flush or very slightly lower than the surface of the wheel nuts, there is no problem, this is how 99% of Land Rovers run with Modular/8-Spoke wheels fitted. A picture posted here would allow people to be sure in saying 'yarp' or 'narp'

AC fans on an RRC are controlled by an extra switch in the thermostat housing, this is only given a live feed when the AC is on of course, this switches the fans on when coolant temp is above a certain value and the AC is on.

Roger, Thanks Nige Probably end up being easier to graft the P38 banjo into the center of an LN axle tube

Would this mean though, with some tinkering they could be made to fit, if someone was on a budget diff upgrade? How much out is the PCD/bolt patterns?

Hmm, I would check the air intake as well, this can sound very droning at times to me.... some sort of resonance.

Welding might be tricky.... a seal land is just a small wider part to the shaft which is machine smooth for the axle oil seal to run on it.I'll try and find a pic.... Here:

You can fit Disco one piece shafts from a 1993 ish with a seal land and thin drive member. You may get lucky in a scrappy....?

Ashcrofts, 270 quid iirc.

Mine too TBH! Whoops, I forgot about that one, thank you

Could be a number of things..... First, as you have mentioned it, the viscous coupling, jack up one front wheel so it is clear of the ground, put a wheel brace on one of the wheel nuts and with the handbrake securely one, it should turn slowly round. If it is locked solid then the vehicle's viscous coupling is knackered causing binding whilst driving in sharp turns. Replacement can be done in situ, and not too bad a job. Secondly, wheel bearing, possibly, but I would say unlikely in this case, but is certainly the easiest to check, jack the front wheels up and try rocking them side to side an up and down, any side to side clunks is almost cetainly wheel bearing, a collapsed and therefore locking up bearing should be pretty obvious(!) Another thing... could be a CV joint broken/breaking up/very worn, these click from the front axle when on full lock as they are under the greatest stress then. Checking them is a complete hub disassembly, and not a nice job, really mucky. You could, I suppose, have low fluid in the reservoir, but I guess you have checked that The viscous boxes are great btw, on road they drive much nicer, I went to an LT230 box for better gearing, and it does drive quite differently.... and chirps tyres at a standing start

Removing the viscous will make precious little difference to the warm up, fix the problem, not the symptom! Open the bonnet when 'hot' do the engine/hoses feel up to temperature? If so then you could have a blocked heater/airlock. If not then you could have a blocked heater/airlock and a dicky temp sender.

Disco 200 or 300TDI is a bit of a no brainer for a works vehicle.

You shouldn't need the glow plugs to get it going.

He mentions an M51 engine, which is the BMW 2.5 DT IIRC, so unless it is a retro fit, I would say it is a P38. Everything else you say is pretty generic though

Currently not for a diesel, no, well maybe, but really bleeding edge stuff.

Remember seeing this in operation on Bish's truck, was impressive stuff, but imagine a Bow 2, that winch and David Bowyers Turbo Boost or whatever it's called, that would surely be a very very close comparison to a mildly tweaked 8274.... line retreival would be faster, I would think. £500 for the winch, £200 Bow2, £200 for turbo boost, £900 all in.... seems a bargain if it is reliable, and still less than half a fully Gigglepinned 8274. If you get the remote speed changing version I found elsewhere, similar money, but driver/codriver need never physically touch the winch.

Measure the current drain at the battery and start pulling fuses until it goes.

Well I *was* going to.....

Anyone come across these before? As far as I can see you can't get them in the UK, but what a turn of speed! 200:1 in low speed, 40:1 in high! Very interesting brake mechnism, built into the motor apparently (I think they may mean it is built into the motor *end* of the winch), stops overrun dead. I was doing some searching and found a similar model which had a remote which at the touch of a button allowed you to select high and low gear. Line speed under load is similar to the Goodwinch TDS 9.5. Honestly, I think this leaves the 8274 on very shaky ground if reliability of the above winch is good enough. Thoughts?

Don't use a non-genuine, using non-gen is a bit like a lottery, but with electricity involved, and the Prince of Darkness pops out from under the bonnet to stab you every now and then just to make you hate your car more. For relays, study the haynes, or better still, get RAVE. Isn't the windscreen motor on the outside? Sorry, never really looked, just assumed it was under the scuttle It sounds like you may have flooded the engine badly, which changing th eplugs out for NGK BPR6ES may cure, or may not There's full diagnostics for the Hotwire injection system in the tech archive

Yeah, I'm 34... 9 years NCB, and it's still lots more than that! I do have full off road cover though