Bowie69

I'd check on that, my belief is that the lifters and cam need to bed in together, not just the lifters.

Factory lockers, wider track, reasonable ratio, and the main reason: HUGELY stronger than anything LR ever made, or probably ever will make.

Disconnect the downpipe rather than the manifold... three bolts vs 8, much easier to repair a manifold than the head too....

That sounds right, I had to empty all of mine (by removing the circlip) when re-setting the pre-load. Come on, whip the other head off when you have half an hour

New lifters = new cam I am afraid... TBH, my money is on a nut dropped into the other bank, I had one fall out of a carburettor butterfly on my lightweight, from a *new* carb (no wonder the throttle was sticky!) and it sounded just like that.... similar symptoms, wouldn't idle without throttle due to the increase in force required to turn it over and make the hammering noise.... Have you got the other head off yet? If not, try turning it over on the starter now, if it still bangs then....

You don't need to soak Rhoads lifters, in fact that won't do anything at all! http://www.rhoadslifters.com/Pages/Installation.html You can pump them up manually, but in the installation instructions I had with them it didn't specify anything, in fact I seem to remember it saying precisely not to do it! Certainly you need to set the preload before filling with oil! Rhoads lifters can also be used if you have an autobox to soften the cam at idle, stops it hunting/being really rough/stalling etc. Not sure of the spec of your truck so.... If it's a manual, I would tend to agree, you don't really need them with the relatively mild cam you run (compared to a whizzy 6000 rpm race jobbie).

Pretty sure they will, for example I have an RRC starter fitted to my 4.0 P38 engine using an RRC HP22 box and starter ring gear etc

It's for a V8, 3.5 I think judging by the distance between cylinders. If it's a decent gasket it will have 'top' stamped lightly into the black surface somewhere, look very carefully, they can be hard to spot sometimes. In fact, isn't that it, just under cylinder #3 in the second photo?

One word : MUPPETS.

You really really ought to change head gaskets you know, they are single use only... Do you have the tin ones or the composite? If composite go for Elring gaskets, V8Tuner and a lot of other places sell them.

Have you connected the small wire securely? This could give the symptoms you describe.

Well, the website, which using this fantastic site called Google ( http://www.google.com ) came up really quickly http://tinyurl.com/683yg8q Seems a bit odd that the site hasn't been updated, if the rules and regs are enforced rather than completely ignored, it may well be a better site. When I visited the number of permanent Police CCTV cameras in place on the route to the fields made me realise that there may have been trouble there long before I visited. Anyone been to Minety BTW? A group of friends go camping once a year, off roading and seems a good choice, any expereience/opinions?

Spotted this in my subscription email to the Aus rag '4WD Action', was pretty pleased for them, shame the now outed Communist Labour Party wouldn't bother listening to the electorate.

Always been a fan of the 'rollerskate' look of tiny rims but slammed to the floor VWs, and this looks similar. I quite like it actually

Now that looks like another cool motor to come out of that workshop

A man who's fastidiousness is only surpassed in part by my own!

Not sure, was on Bishbosh's bobtail/90...

Yeah, and I've seen POR on an axle, rusted through with surface rust in 18 months! I have 3 coats of hammerite on my Lightweights chassis, still looking good after 3+ years Honestly, unless your vehicle is an on-road tool only, chassis treatment should be once every year or two to keep on top of it.

Waxoyl is great for inside cavities, so calling it **** is not really appropriate.... I agree though it is not hard wearing enough for surface treatment, where schutz is a MUCH better option, on new/sound metal at least. On rusty/unsound metal hammerite is OK, but can chip easily depending on vehicle use....

'Most people' don't bother stopping unless the car won't go any further in my experience....

At more sever angles, they could run low on oil, as it rushes to the other end of the axle. Personally I would just run the front axle as the factory intended.

Yep, wish I'd never asked now Seriously, I used to work in a joinery, loved visiting the 'elephant shed' with the huge band saws in, teeth 1.5" deep...

Car diffs tend to be quite a reduction, from around 3 to 6 to 1 on average, however with one side held the other output will run at twice the 'normal' speed, so a 4:1 will act like a 2:1, run the diff backwards (i.e. put the power in through the halfshaft and out the prop flange) and it should work as a 1:2.... I think I am right in this, someone (I hope) will confirm in a minute I've no guarantees on the reliability of the above, as the diff is effectively working in 'coast' mode the whole time, however given the small amount of power/torque you are looking at using it may be OK for a long while. As for small cars, think Austin A35, Morris Minor, Marina, Chevette, Suzuki SJ's, in fact small 4x4's could be a very good/cheap source. There are also other options, self-contained diffs, like 4 wheel drive road cars, and some rear drive cars like the Rover P6, Jags, Impreza, Audi Quattro's of all flavours (80,90, 100 etc) Any clues as to what the project is?

You know the MOT inspection manual is availabel online nowadays? http://www.motinfo.gov.uk/htdocs/m4s01000701.htm No RFR as far as I can see.

Ah