Bowie69

With standard shocks, no more articulation at all, as these will be the limiting factor.

It's not really the speed, but the surface you are on that determines the damage, although the faster you go the faster you will break stuff I suppose Difflock = for loose surfaces only.

Yes, the older coil packs have much better snap-on terminals, these even have an o-ring in them which is what helps a LOT to make it water proof, if you aren't too fussed by the waterproofness then the 'gen 2' packs can be used as well, a mate runs one in his MJ installation and has never had a problem, and yes he is using the standard leads from his Mazda engine on it, they clipped in nicely Why a wideband sensor? You only really need a narrowband, wide are more fragile and MS tuning has been proved to be pretty spot-on with a narrowband one, and they cost a helluva lot less! Some sort of gasket compound would be fine between the two halves of a chopping board, I am sure

Cheap carp, most, if not all are just a resistor you stick in the air temp sender plug, which makes it over-fuel a bit, result = black smoke, poor(er) fuel economy, mildy more power and a quick way to cook your catalytic converter! Resistors are pence for a strip of 10, no wonder they like selling them for £10 a shot

That is one seriously cool Rangie, like it very much Looks like you ripped out an old caravan to make it, am I right?

Didn't try bending them, and would be surprised if you managed it without kinking them as they are steel.... they could easily fracture... I suppose it depends on how far you need to move it, I shoved mine right up at the top using the old horn mounting holes, nicely out of the way but still in a position where there is good airflow.

What, this one? Only thing I would say is make the top hose a 90, not 45 or straight as in that thread, the straight in that one sticks out way more than mine, and mine is a 45, and I still find it a pain occasionally when trying to plumb in other stuff.

You don't *need* to do anything with it TBH, it can quite happily stay in place... Struggling to remember after having filled my head with V8s for the last couple of years, I think at least some part of it needs to stay in place to drive/align the oil pump shaft....?

People complaining that they can't get through on the phone, should read this little quote from their 'Contact Us' page: Clearly they don't want to be manning phones and would rather get on with running the rest of the business, there are a LOT of webshops out there that no longer have any phone contact details, email is much more efficient...

A-ha, things are becoming clearer now, many thanks Just spoken to Gwyn, got a GL637 on it's way, which, at 637mm, is ~30mm shorter than the existing one with a BW box in it So, it seems that I now have one of the most common prop length on the front of it, 'Defender from MA - 300Tdi/Discovery 1/Range Rover Classic 1986-1991', which by cross-referencing a few websites *IS* an FRC8386. Maybe it will help someone in the future that doesn't have a donor to just nick the prop from

Maybe, only started looking gone 5, damned work getting in the way all the time

Where stuff is standard across vehicles you can find the information quite quickly in Google: http://www.towingandtrailers.co.uk/shop/132/133/142/index.htm

I would measure the distances if I had the right box in the truck I'm *hoping* to get everything ready, then spend a day getting the old one out, new one in and it 99% sorted, hence the question You are right about the wide angle/HD prop, another reason for the question above is for me to be able to say to PC/GL 'Can I have an 'EXTREME' () version of FRC8386 please?' if that's the right part no.

I'll shortly be putting an LT230 into my 1991 V8 RRC, currently fitted with a Borg Warner t-box, and have everything sourced except for the front propshaft, mainly because I am struggling to nail down which one I need(!) I *think* that the one I want is an FRC8386, which is a Disco 1 front prop, but also fits to the RRC, in some applications, unfortunately this is where the issue comes in... Microcat lists FRC8386 lists as the front prop from 86-91, which I thought were the years that the BW was fitted....? So I'm guessing this isn't the right one? Or is that the Disco has the engine/t-box in a different place relative to the axle? Any help greatly appreciated

I had mine earthed back to the battery IIRC, but... no real reason why not to just find a clean bit of metal inside the truck and connect it with bolt and a ring terminal. I just prefer to have all my earths in one place, means I can't forget where they all are

Awe, you spoilt it now!

45m deep? Errr, no, the seals would give up at that pressure

Diagnostic detail from the original LR workshop manual is in the Haynes book btw

Possibly in BBC's V8 rebuild thread

Yup, only spillage from the pipes Depending on how tight the bumper is, you may find you need to relocate the cooler, there's a thread in the tech archive about it

Of course there are, but not employed in an automotive sense, being an electrical/electronic engineer by training means that whilst many things are possible, it's not always best to explain everything when the question is a simple one

Not sure exactly what you are trying to say here, but according to Ohm's Law, that's pretty unlikely... V = IR Where V is volts, I is current and R is resistance, to re-arrange things, we get: I=V/R Therefore as voltage drops with a constant resistance, current will fall, there's nothing magic that is able to decrease the resistance based on supply voltage unfortunately, that's why your lights dim when your battery is getting flat and not charging. Totally agree with the rest of your post, especially the relay coil, which is probably 200-500mA as an estimate, so you could flatten the batteries in a surprisingly short amount of time. If both batteries were 72Ah, and the relay drawing 500mA you are looking at 288 hours until completely flat, and unable to start the engine well before that, which is about 12 days.

Nothing to stop you buying a cheap one and galvanizing it I suppose, probably what I would do if you really want it to last. The mounting arrangement is show here, albeit a little small: https://www.roversnorth.com/store/c-36-tanks-filler-assem.aspx Little more detail on the individual item page: http://www.roversnorth.com/store/p-1884-bolt-rear-of-fuel-tank-.aspx (assuming its an 88") TBH, when I replaced mine I had to cut the bolts, and made up what I needed and still used the rubber washers for a bit of flex, but I wouldn't be over concerned about it, as long as you have SOME movement available, but you are right, the chassis will flex a little

James, you confused the hell out of me there Andrew, Series vehicles do have a steering box, it that lump near the bulkhead that the column goes into, the steering relay is something different and sits in the front chassis cross member, you can see both on this lovely pic here: Just thought it needed clarifying a little

I'm guesstimating, but the RR jacks are probably ~17-18" (450mm ish) fully extended, they are able to lift on the axle tube to lift the wheel an inch or two off the ground, and I have 33" tyres. As said above, nowt wrong with a couple of bits of wood, I use a couple of bits of 4"x4"x24" (ironic!) timber under mine pretty regularly when lifting on the chassis, propping a gearbox etc