Bowie69

Yup, had that before on a gearstick, if you hold your hand on the gear stick does it stop rattling?

You may be right there... all multi-point systems I have seen have had much smaller vapourisers even on a 4.0l J"$p.

Recently put their +5" non-reservoir dampers on the rear of my Rangie, they have it damped VERY well, bridges I used to have to drop to less than 30mph can be taken quite happily at 50mph now Off road I have no idea, only been back and running for a couple of weeks! Previously I was running 2.5 year old +2" Procomps, they were shocking, if you'll excuse the pun, by comparison, and I don't remember them getting worse over their lifespan, just pretty squidgy from very early on. I do however have Procomps on the front, and they work quite well up there

Yup, sorry, I confuse people easily It fits fine:

Mine was a closed loop draw through system

Agreed it's not in the inspection manual now, I do remember having a fail due to insecure battery in the past (maybe 15 years ago), so maybe it has been removed. Even if it was in the manual, a ratchet strap should be fine.

The OMVL R90E vapouriser is a very good bit of kit, and fully serviceable, it would be my choice if LPGing another vehicle again, it was faultless on 2 of my vehicles over many miles. If it is a 3 position switch it's designed for a carb setup, it would work the way you mention, but the switch over would be so fast I think you would barely need it TBH.

Not being an expert on the P76 4.4 litre engine, but would the 3.5/3.9l inlet manifold even fit? Seems to me you would struggle, as taller deck height = wider V-shape? *actually, just checked in David Hardcastle's book, you'll need to make up spacers to fit the EFI manifold....

My EDIS mounted nicely between the header tank and the brake pump, there's a flat metal support plate holding the header tank in place, unbolt it a bit, drill a couple of holes and bolt it up -job done

Maybe its a Br!tpart item?

Odd, I have more than one on mine.................?

Build a wooden platform under the engine crane, only as high as you need, reverse series under the lift, lift engine, drive series out, drop engine, dismantle platform and then re-lift engine where you want

If you want new springs with no lift, then what's so wrong with some genuine items? They aren't expensive by any means...

It's *MUCH* better to measure centre of hub to wheel arch to compare to other people's trucks, as differing tyre sizes screw up your above measurement... For instance, mine on 33" tyres would seem pretty high compared to yours With 235/85 on modular rims you'll need to trim the front arches/bumper/valance, and just under the C-pillar at the back, however they are not too much strain on the mechanicals, they are a standard size on Defenders!

TBH, it's nuts and bolts, only issue you may come up with is the output shaft not having long enough splines on it if the TC has been updated to a cross-drilled input gear. Couple of other points..... I used a transfer lever from a V8 disco which fitted perfectly, although did need a fair bit of adjustment to get the difflock throw right, and it is really tight in there, so try and do it whilst the box is still lowered a bit, and you haven't fitted the hand brake. I didn't use the drum handbrake, as I had an X-brake waiting on the shelf to go on, but I do know the BW and LT ones are not interchangeable without re-drilling the backplate and possibly the handbrake cable won't fit. You need a different mounting bracket from the TC to the rubber doughnut, but the chassis half can remain the same. Change doughnut at the same time.... Disco 1 300TDi front prop replaces the BW front prop, Gwyn Lewis part number GL637 is ideal, wide angle and heavy duty REMOVE THE EXHAUST MIDDLE BOX! I dropped mine just to the ground (no rear box) and whilst is was kinda out of the way, I did keep smacking my head on it. If you are going X-brake, I had to shorten the lower of the two spacers by 5mm as the head of the bolt was knocking on the middle box (quite noisy). You will defo need to shorted the caliper lever as well. Oh, and did I mention, P38 4.0 with Kent H200 cam, Rhoads lifters and ported heads, coupled to a nice 1.410 ratio TC and 33" Simex JT2s makes for an impressively speedy drive

That Maplin one can be sealed with a piece of flat rubber across the back, and it then being screwed to a flat surface, much better than a load of mucky silicon IMHO.

Ah nevermind, got it sorted.... It seems the 90/LT230 drive has a larger square in it than the RRC one, and after much swearing I got the LT230 drive out and managed to swap the gear from the BW box and speedo now works... Might be useful for someone else though

Plus of course, RRCs have the CD player near vertical, and it works fine in there

I have recently finished the conversion from a BW transfer box to an refurbed 1.410 ratio LT230 in my 1991 Range Rover, this has all gone pretty smoothly, until after a road test (a fast one! ) I have found the speedo isn't working. I have had a look at the cable which links to the transducer bolted to the chassis, and it appears OK, not what I would call worn for sure, both ends look the same, and twist one end and the other spins freely The mechanics of the transducer seem OK, insert cable, twist and there is some definite extra friction, so I can assume that side is OK, though I have not checked the electronics side. That just leaves the transfer box speedo drive I believe...? if I shove the cable into the speedo drive I am able to spin the cable easily with my fingers, it's not making any purchase at all it seems? Jack up one wheel, handbrake off, in neutral and I can see and feel the speedo drive rotating quite happily in the housing. So two things I guess could be the culprit, one is a worn speedo cable (it's still square, and fits and operates the transducer on either end) or the actual speedo drive is worn out or possibly the wrong part? I tried levering the speedo drive out of the housing, with no joy, although the one on the now spare BW box popped out fine, is there anything holding them in other than an o-ring? Replacement T-box is a suffix C box, from (I think) and 89 90 TD. Quick pic of the speedo cable: Thanks for any help Bowie.

Hamlins in Bridgwater have always done a pretty good job for me. http://www.hamlinsengineering.co.uk/

VWP

Another vote for Makita, a friend has the smaller of the two Makita impact wrenches, undone anything it has ever been asked to, yet really compact to get in tight places This is the one: http://www.itslondon...nchToolOnly.htm Batteries are very good, with only a 22 min charge, but last for ages. He now has: 18v Makita Combi Drill 18v Makita Torch 18v Makita Impact Driver (150nm) 18v Makita Skill Saw 18v Makita 4" Angle Grinder 18v Makita Jigsaw 18v Batterys X3 Lithiom Iron 3.0ah 18v Quick Charger Station (22min) 18v Makita 1/2" square drive impact wrench To say he's impressed is an understatement Good thing is once you have the batteries and charger, the actual bare tools are pretty cheap, and there's even bundle deals available as well...

Nice write up Grim, enjoyed reading that

OK, it's early, I have a self-inflicted headache, and you're being mean

Front and rear 80 series Toyota axles are offset the same way as the LR axles are, Nissan Patrol rear axle is centred diff. front axle = same as LR. Oh, and available in the same ratios, so they are quite a good option..... has it been mentioned that the Nissan front axle bolts straight in on the hockey sticks?