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muzaz

Long Term Forum Financial Supporter
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Everything posted by muzaz

  1. thanks for the help gromit, a picture says a thousand words! all understood
  2. Yes you'd do me a favour, cant find mine... no hurry mate... calling it a day for now... big boss just called!
  3. Aha! that was the thread I was looking for.. thanks Gromit what about the thrust sides? I take them to be the areas where the gudgeon pin is no?
  4. I read it somewhere on this forum that they should be at an angle ...the manual say it at page 59 step 3... but no diagram at all... Will try to find the hanes manual, even tho I dont trust it much... God knows where I hid that book!! chris
  5. how should the rings be orientated before pushing the piston down the bore... the manual mentions something about staggering the rings as illustrated...but theres no illustration!
  6. Thanks Ralph... off to fit the rings then... hope they will just fit in easily, had quite a hard time taking the old ones off...slicing my thumbs in the process!
  7. better not go bang then...or you'll be making one of your most expensive phone calls!!!
  8. Hi all... Thought I'd open a single thread about the subject instead of opening one every time I have a query.... dont know if this is the proper place for it tho! Moderators feel free to move it if its the case... Anyway, last week took the block for honing and now its back...Cant say I'm 100% satisfied with the job as there are still some marks remaining at the top of the bore but the guy at the shop said its fine, he didnt want to take much material off... So now I'm into fitting the pistons, and following the manual to the word I've checked the ring clearance in the bore... the book says top ring 16 to 25 thou, I have 15thou in all 4 bores, mid ring manual says 12 to 19thou, I have 11thou in 3 bores and 12 in one... bottom ring manual says 11 to 23thou I have 12thou on all 4 bores, so thats ok. I bought standard size rings, should I just put them in, end of story or? the difference is only 1 thou should I leave it? Another one, what kind of oil should be used when assembling the parts...pistons, rings crank and shells etc...Is it ok to use engine oil or gear oil? thanks chris Visible marks at the top of the bores
  9. Surely its not the engine's fault, if you venture too deep to get the engine to suck water you should fit a snorkel no? Else youre a ver very bad man!
  10. most probably its the UJs, take the prop out, its only 4 bolts and 8 nuts and have a good look, check the splines. There will be some movement on the diff, its the backlash between pinion and crown, which is normal
  11. good one! how about my opel astra, its Midnight Black, any idea about its texture?! Think I hijacked your topic
  12. sure about that, nice and clean it is.... treated it with rust converter also (tho I'm not sure its steel!) You know that forward one got a habbit of filling up with dirt and starts corroding... we use non silicon sealants at work, good for Aluminium and othe alloys...thought I might use it to seal the plug, or chem metal if its safer
  13. hmm.........good idea, never thought of that! And what about washing it, what would you recomend? An angle grinder maybe?! well not that I wash it often...considering that in these 7 years that I owned it I never washed it.... my gf did wash it once tho... sandglow yellow... with sand I'll think about it
  14. yes right...probably you've seen my avatar eh... rollered with whatever paint I has at hand! Wont stay like that much longer...changing the colour scheme...and probably will upgrade from the roller to a spraycan!
  15. I was going to fill the plugs with sealant, specially the forward one(which is partially hid by the timing case) is it ok to do so?
  16. To be honest i was resisting from mentioning the roller... dont know if you guys use them too! guess its a common landrover thing then!
  17. I know from experience...the hard way! Chiseled it out with a big masonry chisel, the biggest i had... I swear I wont try it again!
  18. If you've got a hydraulic press or something similar then its a 30min job.... if not its a couple of hrs swearing!
  19. Use a roller and youre quickly done with it! joking apart, heating up the paint helps as well
  20. Thats not the point, the way I see it...... If youre meticolous in what you do, you'll do it right, beleive me... I work on aircraft for a living, and everyday you encounter something new, a job you never done before, a part you never removed or installed, a component you never inspected...what shall I do? Say I cant do it bec I never did it?! No, there are the manuals, if you do it by the book and you do it right! If I take the landrover manual for example, its a very good manual(gets a bit used to tho) there are all tollerances and dimensions to be checked etc. I never do anything by experience, even if I did the job a thousand times (talking aircraft here) bec thats the time where I'll get a couple of hundred people killed....thats the real truth...
  21. It depends on what you mean by no previous mechanical knowledge. If it means that you dont know whats a spanner and you've got no technical background, I agree... but if it means that you've never done that particular repair before, then I disagree... I thake myself as a case, I've never done any major works on an engine, never took a head off etc, but I'm doing it now for the first time, got hte manual, take advice etc, and untill now I've encountered no big problems... its not a jet engine, just follow the manual and it should be ok... My humble opinion!
  22. The axles seem a bit odd, but prob they are ok, the body work might not be tho...its an 88" no? the body is off a 90
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