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muzaz

Long Term Forum Financial Supporter
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Everything posted by muzaz

  1. No oil pump in the transfercase.
  2. I contacted them, they said they get them direct from LR and will ship me a pair next week. Fair enough. Yea they are normally welded in but I'll just seal them in. Actually I'll throw some cavity wax inside before I do. Well, not entirely sold on that. I would leave the chassis, bumpers and cappings, but the bulkhead I don't think I would. To be honest it would still blend in with the color I have in mind, which is light grey (BAC 707) but I don't know. For me it's part of the bodywork so I'd want to paint it!
  3. I got it from SP4X4 but don't know what brand it is, no marking on it or the box. I assume they build them themselves. The documents say made in the UK.
  4. Yes that's the plan will go round all the seams and edges, but first I think better treat the galv to etch it or age it slightly. Will have to see what's available locally. Hope all lines up!! I can't really tell if it's waped or not, it looks pretty straight but some panels are sure have some warping. Here you go, any particular area in mind? Most of the welds are small short welds and spotwelds. Some are ground but most are not.
  5. Missing metal sorround, can take off my old bulkhead. Footwells are single skin ribbed type. Overall I think it's fine, much similar to the original one in the details.
  6. Packaging, cardbiard box, quite thick but still git punctured at the bottom corner. Still made it tho! Some warping is visible especially on the top of the footwells.
  7. So, a little update - the new galvanised bulkhead just arrived. First impression...a bit of a mixed feeling, tbh I have never seen what an aftermarket bulkhead looks like but comparing this to the original, the orginal just looks sharper. Maybe it's got to do with the galv process which makes evertything looks more rounded? There is some warping of the panels, mainly the footwells. The material looks a bit thicker than the original, again maybe because if the galv. Overall it looks fine to me, all holes mosty clean off extra zinc etc. There are some differences to my original bulkhead in mine was a pre tdi and this is a 300tdi, so there are some extra brackets etc. but should be fine. So far the only defect I noted is missing metal surround at the two oval holes below the vents. Some photos will follow.
  8. Another issue with stainless steel may be the possibility of galvanic corrosion to steel and aluminium. Something to think about before spending a lot of money.
  9. Give me a couple of days and will let you know...got mine at customs, will clear the paperwork and should have it by the weekend.
  10. The top repair panel are all single skin, the underlying structure is mostly unavailable, you have to make your own. Bonnet hinges are available new but its welded to the bulkhead not the outer skin so probably that's why its not included.
  11. I would suggest you investigate the full extent of rust on your bulkhead before buying any repair parts, and then decide if it's worth repairing or replacing. I made a mistake of repairing the obvious rust spots ie the footwells, however I quickly found out that the small rust spot around the top vent was hiding a filled up repair. The bulkheads inner structure was all gone. Most repair sections look alike, I got my parts from SP4X4. Footwell are much much better than Britpart, perfect fit, double skin with ribs etc just like the original. The top section comes without the bonnet hinge. I think it best without the hinge because of allignment issues. In the end I decided to buy a new bulkhead, was going to take too long to repair, consider this - I cut the bulkhead in half and took off all the internal structure!
  12. I would have a look at gearbox oil first. I would suspect something wrong with the synchros.
  13. Mine looked similar to yours. When I rebuilt the transfercase I found nothing wrong with the diff, no wear at all, just the required clearances for it to function correctly. I replaced it with an ATB which took all that play away, but not because there was something wrong with it.
  14. Bit the bullet and placed the order, it has a 3 to 4 weeks lead time but thats ok. Enough time to take the bulkhead off and tidy the chassis with a lick of paint! Importing from the UK is not that bad tbh. Vat is not charged from the UK, I get charged the local rate on arrival which is 18%, 2% cheaper than the UK rate. The other costs are handling fees from the courier, which is just around €15 and duty. Duty on UK origin items is free, for the rest it would be around 1%. The only downside is the shipping costs, which are normally too high. In this case tho it was worth while considering the local costs. I might tempt myself to start selling them!! 🤑
  15. I know that feeling! 25years ago I had an 88" series 3, lots of fun and good memories! Bought a 200tdi engine as an upgrade, but before swapping engines I wanted to give the truck a "refurbish" and rebuild the engine. Well I took the engine apart but never but it back together again till this year, 15 years later! And the series 3 ended up garaged for ages. Sold it off for peanuts somw years ago to make space. Not repeating the same mistake, I'm older now! 🤣
  16. Thanks Arjan, will contact Richard and ask for a quote. Got a quote from SP4x4, that is £1200 delivered for a galvanised one. That would be around €1650 incl tax, I'm happy with that compared to the €3400 quoted locally! So I will definitely import one either from the UK or somewhere else. Ye the thing is, it's the bulkhead, something I would not be looking forward to take apart again in the near nor distant future. Besides that, I have plans for the truck which keep on getting shelved. I'd rather start enjoying it sooner, life is short!
  17. Yeah, unfortunately it is far too gone, and as much as I'd like to repair it, it's not worth the time spent on it. I'd d rather spend some extra money and have it on the road sooner. But I think they do manufacture their parts or at least have someone local do it for them, not foreign import.
  18. Yes that's the intention, the one linked is pressed rather than welded, galvanised and made in the UK. The price looks good if they can deliver at a reasonable price.
  19. I'm throwing in the towel...too much rust and almost nothing left from the bulkhead. I could attempt to repair it and I will at some point but it will take too long to do it right. So after much consideration I think it will be wise to opt for a new bulkhead. Buying one locally will be north of €3k so I'm looking at suppliers from the UK. From the description, SP 4x4 seem to have decent quality bulkheads at quite good prices, anyone got experience of one of theirs?https://www.sp-4x4.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=JWP3001
  20. I think the issue has to do with the injection pump, apparently there are different pumps which are set at different crank angles. We were setting timing at 13° as marked on the flywheel, however the pump may be an older type which should be at 16°. We set it at 16 and it's running much smoother now, no smoke at idle and responds well to throttle input.
  21. A friend of mine needs some help setting the injection timing for a 2.25 series 3. The engine is a 5 main bearing, with 13° and 14° timing marks on the flywheel. He took the skew gear off and replaced the bearing and reinstalled it at 20 ish degrees as per Hanes manual instructions. He set the timing at 13° and installed the injection pump. The injection pump has internal marks which are lining up ( "A" mark to circlip) however its not running right. Low on power, smokes and difficult to start even when warm. Any idea of how it should be set?
  22. I have an adversity to welding 🤣 Probably due to my line of work on aircraft where everthing is bonded together with sealant and riveted or bolted. Done properly it will hold well.
  23. In it's current state, half chopped, side post and part of the footwell removed, I think it will loose its shape if I attempt to galvanize it. Will treat it with phosphoric acid to neutralise any remaining rust, paint it with zinc phosphate and seal it with dinitrol. Open as it is I can reach most of the internal crevices. The repair panels will go on with sealer and rivets rather than plug welds as from what I could notice, rust starts from welded areas.
  24. I'm not sure what it's correct name, I mean the frame underneath the skin panels. In the photo its the section you can see under the vent cutout where the bonnet hinge is attached.
  25. Got some good news and some bad news! Spent the morning carving with the grinder and finally got most of the rusty rot away...that's the good news... The bad news....there's not much of the bulkhead left! 😣 Had to take the inner structure off as it was mostly crumbled rust. Will have to fabricate all parts as I cant find any repair sections. Will see, I'm half thinking I should gave gone for a replacement bulkhead... Wish me luck!
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