muzaz

I am in the process of doing an engine rebuild on a disco 200tdi, I'm quite deep into the rebuild - most of the engine is assembled. I have run into a problem, the rear lifting eye sits under the head bolts and unfortunately I missed the bloody bracket while installing the head. Is it advisable to take two bolts off to install the lifting eye?

Can check mine if you want... only difference is that its a 200tdi not 300... but I think they should be the same no?

You would need something like this, two in one, but the nato hitch looks better imo

dont think it will make much difference.... if you hit it against a rock it'll get smashed anyway... IMO its just a decoration!

something like this with google earth, there is an icon on top, its like a ruler, then select path...you should get the length in km or miles

semkit, PRC desoto, Le Joint Francais.... all the same type of sealants, do you get them in a sealant gun type tube or canned? Its a pain to mix the thing especialy since they are kept in a freezer (storage temp is low)... but they do seal well, and remain a bit flexible

maybe you could use countersunk rivets, if you use pop ones, you fill the stem hole with filler and youre done, or else you could use solids, a bit more difficult tho... As for bonding adhesives for aluminum I cant remember the exact product we use, I'll check tomorrow at work...we use various brands like Araldite, Scotch, 3M and Locitite Thinking about it I remember some which might be available at an ironmonger etc...Araldite 2014 is good for sure, 2020 should be good as well, there is Pattex stabilit which is very good as well, you have to be fast with it tho, as it sets quite quickly (15min approx)

even if its not for a landrover, you still have the gearbox problem... the rover v8 does not weigh much, its all alloy, but if you want something smaller but more powerful you could look at a cosworth, I think there are plenty of them in the UK... well thats where we get them from anyway... a lightweight 2 litre engine can deliver 220bhp in standard form... But I'm 100% sure the series gearbox will disintegrate

is a mix of grease and gearoil ok?

stainless nuts have a tendency to cold weld on the bolt, so it would be wise to use antisieze paste on the thread

yes thats how it looks like but the oilseal mates with the crank timing gear not the crank itself

Here

Just want to share an opinion that could save money and time sometimes I find that it works out easier and cheaper to do the work that needs to be done at a machineshop instead of buying the tools myself and doing it myself, as an example, some time ago I wanted to hone the cylinder bores, was tempted to buy a honing tool and do it myself, but with the price of the tool I got the block done in a machineshop, and done the right way, with the right tools. Another example was when I replaced the track rod with a stronger one, I could either buy a lefthand and righthand taps and a bar of steel to do it myself or else get it done at the shop... I chose to let the shop do it, ......30mm dia EN19 trackrod incl locknuts (without ball joints) cost me 30eur, the two taps would have cost double that.

That would prob be a 1/8th pin then... never seen one small like that, the smallest we use are 3/16... and nato hitch on the tow truck uses 5/16 pin, well the hitch is quite massive! Well he'll have to use one of those hairpin type of pins then, should still do the job well

So whats the diameter for the top pin Ralph? 3/16 is the smallest listed on that link, btw that pin is a positive locking one, so if inserted correctly should not come out... there are many other types there, which dont cost much, heres the home page for those of you near enough to check it out... http://www.prifast I'm too far away

If you want to go for some bling bling pin, look here PIP PIN Most functional and practical pins IMHO.... cant see a price anywhere tho, I have a feeling they could cost a little bit

probably its not injection timing which is wrong, but the pump setting, there are quite a few threads on the subject, and some experts on this forum...unfortunately i'm not one of them

Just to add a little thing that might save you time, prepare a can with some brake fluid before you remove the pipes, as soon as you take them off, put them in the can submersed in oil (to prevent air getting in). Replace the master as Les said, and bleed it before you put the pipes back (as Les said), then put the pipes back again, if youre quick enough you might even get away without bleeding the whole system...but for safety's sake bleed it all the same, doing it this way should prevent a lot of air getting it the system.. My 2cent worth

Think I know what you do for a living

I bought a QH one, is that good or maybe its better to use other brands? on the box there was written OE part but then anyone can write what he wants! as for your question ted, I thing that the pulley and damper will need some force to come out depending on the state of the crank, mine was corroded and the keyway not perfect, so I had to hammer lever it out, but the smaller crank sprocket which sits behind the timing cover was easy to take out, just levered it out with a screwdriver

Ok great, just hope that the guy at diesel shop fixed the hub properly on the pump!.......and that reminds me I have to call the guy to check he finished calibrating the injectors and servicing the pump...I think 3 months have passed since I took them to his shop!!! thanks for reminding me!

so that would be my problem then... bought the pump without a sprocket and hub... guess will have a hardtime to get the clockwork right... anyway that stage is still lightyears away!

as above^^ but I wouldnt use any copper strips etc, dissimilar metals will corrode faster, use alu connections, clean the area well from corrosion, and cover the connection with some type of sealant, we use nycote88 for bonding leads on aircraft, dont know if you could find something similar

when you take the bolt and washer securing the camshaft sprocket check that you have an o-ring under the washer... Regarding the keyway as Les said, if its just slightly damaged leave it, I had mine fixed...but only because the crank was already out! You sure?...cause in that case I'm in trouble! But as far as I know the sprocket has got a keyway, you can only fix it in one position..

This is something similar we just got at work...hyd motor on each wheel, no probs with traction at all...something tells me its an expensive setup but its interesting, its so compact you can gain lots in ground clearance.. I really like those tyres!