muzaz

maybe he should have filled them with hydrogen, its even lighter thinking about it, you could make a car work on compressed air, but not by keeping the orignal setup, ie engine coupled to gearbox, gearbox coupled to diffs.... but another system where you do without the gearbox and instead couple the engine to a compressor, and feed the air to an airmotor driving the diff... I would imagine the vehicle to be extremely noisy tho! Hydraulic will be a better bet, its closed loop

I dont think it will be feasable... never heard of air driven vehicles... hydraulic yes tho, usually its heavy plant like cranes etc

maybe something like this? I'd like on for mine...but its too hitech for me GPS

Nah... shouldnt be a problem as long as I dont go for the mot with a tankful of JetA1, it smells a lot...as if youre running a gas turbine instead of a diesel engine. Its a pity it gets dumped when I could make good use of it, diesel prices here have exceeded that of petrol, so you see my concern! What bothers me is that it is quite reactive, for example if you pour some of it in a plastic glass (the ones you're served for drinks while flying) it will melt away in a matter of minutes, so I'm afraid it will damage seals in the long run, also i think it has a higher energy value than diesel, could make the engine run hotter??

just a curiosity question, any one knows if aircraft fuel is ok for diesels?... I know for sure it will run well on it without any smoke, as one I know runs his car on it... but I dont know if it'll harm the engine in the end. I could have an endless supply of the mentioned fuel, pity its all thrown away

I'm using my girlfriend's car to cut down on fuel costs....making sure she just topped it up.... 100% efficiency

Dont complain about your roads! you should come and see ours, the new ones are marble, slippery as a fish, the old ones...you might get a chipping the size of a tennis ball!! or fall half a foot in a pothole and ruin the tyre..etc etc...

Didint know he did heads as well, last time I was there I only saw engine blocks...loads of them! I'll check with the other guy first, I know him and I know that if he cant do it he wont...to be honest I did a fuss bec I thought I got the wrong ones, but the part no should be correct, the invoice says LGJ100880 200/300TDI Valve Guide Brand New (genuine)

But he's not exactely an engineer Les...how shall I put it, he's a work mate, but he's got a whole lot of tools and machinery to make him one... guess he knows his business, when I was there he was replacing bronze guides on a cosworth head, dont know if he used reamers tho I left before he finished. Ok then, I'll have a word with him, just wanted to make sure I have the right parts...thanks to all

Hmm that means more work and more trouble! Didnt find any mention of this on the manual... Any idea of the size for the reamer or should I measure the valve and get one accordingly? Hopefully I'll borrow one of the correct size from work

So after a couple of months decided to do some more work on this never ending project... took the crank at the machine shop to have the keyway for the pulleyand tvdamper welded and recut as it was damaged, and took the head for refacing (if necessary) the guy at the shop noted that the exhaust valves had some play in the valve guide so I decided to replace all of them... so I ordered 8 original guides. I received the guides yesterday and noted that the valves wont go through the valve guide... is this normal, I mean should they be reamed after installation or they should fit ?

dont get me wrong silvio, I'm not saying you invented anything, infact youre absolutely right. What I described is not applicable for 5251 birmabright alloy, as its a non heat treatable alloy which only work hardens. Further cold working will need annealing just as you described. The materials I work with are different, such as 2024 and 7075 alloys, annealing procedure is similar, but for the requirements we need the alloy is solution annealed to make it softer and then aged (precipitation hardened) to make it stronger. But anyway...sorry for the confusion

We have army and police roadblocks (you call them Vehicle Check Point?) almost every weekend during summer time...cant say they'll scare you if you got nothing to hide...they mainly check for drugs and arms... Police check points are normaly more relaxed,most of the times they are unarmed, and if they are armed the pistol is in the holster...The check is usually something like this, a flash with maglite at your face(almost blinding you!) I guess to check if you're drunk or high, and an ID card check, sometimes ask for vehicle insurance as well. The army is different... sometimes they hide and suddenly you'll find a couple of armed soldiers in the middle signaling to stop...a quick look and they decide if you're to continue on your way or not...driving a commerical vehicle or van will often entitle you to a nice body search and vehicle inspection. Obviously you will comply, they dont usually aim their weapon at you, but if they suspect something they will...Ive once seen a taxi driver that didint want to have his car searched...in a couple of seconds he was on his knees hand behind his back tied with a cable tie and held at gun point...and they searched his car...and how did they searched it!! Ripped the rear seats to pieces in front of him...apparently he had drugs hidden.

it depends on what youre bending, aluminium is one thing steel is another... Steel is easy if youre not bending a thick gauge sheet. Aluminium mat be tricky depending on what alloy you're using, generally the alu sheets you buy are already annealed, if bending thicker gauge sheet, before doing the bend sand off the edges to a round smooth surface , put masking tape along the bend line and then bend it slowly... if the edges are left sharp you might end up with a crack along the bend. I think this procedure is for steel... as far as I know alu is annealed by heating the alloy to a temperature depending on the type of alloy for a period of time in an oven, (roughly 300deg) then quenching in water... at this time the alu is annealed and can be worked, it will harden again in a matter of minutes (30min approx) so you have to be quick!

Yup! Thats banana! but I have to say its nice piece of art... so whats next, lime head? cherry top cover? getting it to a nice macedonia there!

not so difficult to take it out, but pay attention to the lift pump, its got a follower which may get caught while taking the camshaft out... I took the pump out to make life easier... but I think it will still come off without removing the pump. while taking it out try to keep it level to avoid damaging the bearings, they are quite soft. Red block....I like.... wanted to do mine red, but was told off... its a landrover diesel... but I still like red! More practical would be black

Well i tried to keep it slightly similar to what it looked like... so off to the ironmonger for a can of golden hammerite lack of creativity? could be... yours is too yellowish for my tastes... looks like a banana shake, makes me slightly sick

for a better look at the cam bearings you can take off fuel pump cover,breather cover or vacuum pump, probably you'll see them as well if you take the tappets off, but I'd guess that if you grab the camshaft by its gear and move it up and down and inside out you'll get a good indication of bearing condition ( hope wont get misunderstood ) ...to check for cilindricity you'll need an internal micrometer I think.. I'd check the bores for the crosshatch pattern, if the marks are still clearly visible, then the bore shouldnt be much oval... check ring condition if possible, I found a broken one on mine, may have on effect on crankcase pressure... my 2euro cent worth...

is that extinguisher powder in the photo? If so clean the area well...very well, powder is a nasty corrosive

what about vauxhalls? something the likes of an astra? dont think they cost much over there, and the later models shouldnt suffer too much from reliability...

if you take the air filter off does it sound any louder? Could be a collapsed tappet slide...

Had a look at Teng tools...again no 12pointed 1/4"drive sockets will look at the others... looks like craftsman is the way to go

Unfortunately it looks like they dont ship overseas... and I havent seen any AF sockets or spanner sets...

Hi thanks for the reccomendations, keep them coming... No we dont have Halfords here, well we have a lot of brands, but its either too cheap or too expensive...and apart from that AF sizes are a bit of a rare thing with some brands... for example you dont find 12pointed deep reach 1/4"drive sockets from 3/16" to 9/16" so easly!! I have to check mostly from ebay or online shops hoping to find a bargain!

Hi, I'm looking for a good quality tool set...not for landrover use obviously. Was looking at Facom and USAG, what you guys suggest? Facom turned out to be bloody expensive, the tools I need totaling roughly 2600Eur SnapOn is the same... USAG are not exactly cheap either but they seem to be limited when it comes to AF sizes which I need most. Craftsman seem to fit the bill nicely, they got a lifetime warranty and cover AF sizes very well, with 12sided sockets in deep reach and standard lengths. Dont know about quality tho. I need tools which are trustworthy, in the sense that I dont want a socket slipping as I wouldnt have a spare bolt, I'd need a spanner to be slim and strong for areas with limited access etc. But in the same time I dont want to spend a fortune! Any ideas and recommendations are welcome!