muzaz

Doubt you'll find any that fit without machining the steering shaft. Closest commercialy available bearings I found is 20x32x10mm

We'll see about that, I ordered a couple of 22x36x9.5mm bearings from my local bearing shop which may be the right ones.

Will let you know if the bearing I ordered is any good. Might be a couple of weeks tho as it's on order.

Summer over here can be a bit harsh, normal shade temp hovers around 35°c but not uncommon to go up to the high thirtys and beyond. That's why I'd rather have a viscous fan.

Thanks, will have a look.

The bearing is imperial size 0.875" by 1.406" The older column part no is 22x36 2RS. Managed to order 22x36x9.5mm bearing from a local supplier. When I get them if they fit will share the make and part no.

On the subject of fans and cowls, fitting a disco 200tdi to a defender, can you keep the fan and cowl?

The original bearing was marked 22/36, so I'm hoping that the ones I'm getting will be similar. 0.2mm interference is impossible to fit, 0.02mm would be more reasonable.

Problem is the bearing is slightly oversize, the shaft is 22.2 and the housing is 35.7 The little lathe will come handy in that case!

Good news, the bearing shop will be able to supply me with the bearing. Asked him to order 2 just in case! Not sure it will be a perfect fit as the dimensions are of the column is not really 22x36mm...we'll see

I found the flux cored mig surprisingly good for what it is. Cheap and no gas bottles to fill and carry around. And the nozzles is small, you can get better access for in situ repairs.

Both cast iron and brass are good bearing material. Cast iron is loaded with graphite, machining it you'll notice every where turns grey! If I had to make a bush I would probably make it bronze as it's harder than brass and wont rust. Friction should not be an issue I believe, especially if a grease point is added. However my first option is a roller bearing, the column will have some thrust acting on it and the column shaft only has a small shoulder, that would probably wear the side of the bush in time.

Are they made to order as I can't find anything for Landrovers?

Found a local bearing shop who might help me out. On his catalogue he found 22x36x10 bearings but he does not stock them, never sold one he said. He's going to check with his supplier if still available, if yes I'll order. Hope it fits!!

Judging by the unique bearing size the LR engineers probably saw an important point to it. But when I think of it, I can't really justify a mandatory use for a ball bearing. Lets face it, the rotation speed of the column is negligible, most of the time it is oscillating left to right at slow speed. The only issue I see is thrust loads as the bush can carry none unless it has a shoulder.

That would be great!

That's an option, I could use a 22x32 bearing and machine a sleeve for it to take up the difference. Expensive, and still not a direct fitment I believe Very possible and probably the easiest way, if I don't find the correct bearing I'll be going that way. In the meantime pm @bmhor maybe he still has some as he mentioned he had bearings, but that was ages ago!

Opps, 35.7!

7/8" inside, outside it's 55.7mm or 1.406" wouldn't know what it is in fraction. Still found nothing. 7/8" id bearings I found, but the OD is too large.

Thanks @western, from what I understood, there seems to be a procedure of how to replace them but no spares! The original part no. 22/36 2rs does not result in anything. Surely there must be a replacement part!

Has anyone found a replacement bearing for the elusive lower ball bearing of a defender steering column? Mine is an early 90, the bearing was shot with most of the balls missing. The part no on the outer race is 22/36 2RS west germany. The size seems odd though, for sure its not metric and not 22x36, more like 22.5x 35.7 Trawled though the internet to find a similar sized bearing or sn LR part no but nothing. The closest I could get to was 22x37 or 20x32. I was told there's no replacement for it and most who repair it use a bush instead.

Good so the white stuff is a good sign, will continue the process as suggested. Have another question regarding heavily corroded areas where I cannot get to bare metal. I'm repairing the dumb irons, cut the rotten part off but I can still see corrosion inside the chassis rail. It's not rotten but there is quite a bit of rust and I can't reach that with a wire brush. I applied the acid, some parts turned white but most are dark brown/black. Will the phosphoric sort of block the corrosion?

I'm doing some bulkhead and chassis repairs at the moment, cut out the rotten areas but would like to treat the areas with surface rust and not through rust. I normally use Wurth rust converter but for external exposed areas it seems to rust again after a while. Probably the conversion does not go deep enough. So came across a product which is basically phosphoric acid with some additives and had a go with it. I was thinking the surface would go black but instead it turned white! I diluted the acid to about 50%, when applied I could see some fizzling on the surface so something was going on. I left the acid there to dry up as I read somewhere that if you wash it off it will flash rust. Any idea of how a correctly treated surface should look like?

Alright then, I should be fine. Better start saving now, I asked for a qoute for the complete set up with bushes, cranked arms, A-frame joint, shocks, springs etc... WoW!!! More than 2k I'll have to short list to the necessary only for now. Shipping cost is a killer when things get heavy 😢 @Stellaghost Impressive! If I get half of that I would be happy!

Do you have added weight at the front, can't see clearly from the photo. But it looks quite balanced and level. Your truck looks similar to what I have in mind so the set up suggested by GL is close when you factor in a rear winch and tray and a front bumper.