muzaz

Looking online for winches I came across this winch from Vevor. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005004913800707.html At €275 delivered it caught my attention and looking at the specs it's listed as 13500lb capacity with a 6.8hp motor, a 265:1 reduction, IP67, synthetic rope etc. Anyone came across or owns such a winch? What are your opinions about it?

I put sealant on both the block, and the housing. Not sure there was any need to, but I don't think it will hurt anything. I hate oil leaks!

I used a dial guage mounted on the spindle, clocked it on the central part where the o-ring on the shaft mates with the hole in the casing as that's the unworn area in the hole.

Ordered parts for the transfercase overhaul which should arrive next week, in the meantime I set up the case in preparation for bushing the intermediate shaft. Will also replace the intermediate shaft with a heavy duty one as the original was worn. I think the collapsible sleeve was contributing to this as is was crushed unevenly and the wear on the shaft was on one side only.

Exactly, I'm aiming for 33s as I could probably get away without having to mess around with lifting and issues with steering and propshafts.

This build is not really on a budget, but it's gradual. The plan was to upgrade the engine, transmission and axles. Then also accessories such as winches bumpers roll over protection and tyres. Not all in one go obviously but in a way that makes sense. So the atb is ideal to install now that the transfer case is being overhauled. Gearbox already done, engine rebuilt but must be fitted. Next will be wheels and tyres, then winch and bumper. Lockers and cage for last. I get you that bigger tyres will affect the low range, but it's a compromise. In my mind it's a cost effective way to increase ground clearance, no cash for portals 😋

Took the transfer case apart this morning and had a good look at the internals. The box was a bit low on oil and judging from the color probably was not serviced for quite a while. However the general condition was quite good, all gears and bearings no significant wear or damage. The diff pinions and housing all in very good condition. I found a problem with one of the diff bearings - the large nut at the diff body came loose even tho it was staked and consequently the bearing spun on the diff body. Luckily the damage is slight and the bearing still slides down with no play. There is the intermediate shaft which looks polished on one side only but no detectable wear on it. The hole in the casing looks slightly worn (it was weeping oil) but that will be sleeved. The landrover is not my daily runner, it's a toy 🤭 It's purpose is offroad overland trips so it's getting an engine upgrade and an overhauled drivetrain as I need it to be reliable. I will slowly upgrade it as I go along and that's why I'm going for the atb. Makes sense to do it now while the case is in bits. Will have to check regarding ratios, most of my mates run 35" tyres with 1.4 ratio.

I think with 1.1 gearing I would struggle on our roads, what tyres do you run Sigi? Why don't you think an atb is worthwhile? Correct, too much traffic, hills and no motorways. However I would be using the vehicle abroad so I would like it to be able to cruise on the motorway at a reasonable speed, I'm reasonong the bigger tyres would compensate and give a taller ratio.

Thinking about it, once the transfer case is out and I'm getting it to bits might as well go all the way. So I'll get the intermediate shaft steel bush and put an ATB in. It is a 1.4 ratio, think I'll keep it as is, the plan is to put 33" tyres on. Hopefully this will be the last time saw it's innards.

Will get a rebuild kit from ashcroft and open it up. Mike from Brittanica restoration has a couple of good videos on how to go about it.

My intitial intention was to replace the input gear as the spline was totally worn, so that's being replaced along with the bearings. While at it I was going to replace the oil seals as well. Is it advisable to rebuild it completely at this stage once the box is out or it would be wasted money?

Gearbox finally assembled and adjusted, serviced the shifter and difflock selector, gave it a good clean up and lubrication. Happy with the outcome so far. Turning my attention to the transfer case. I have it out on the bench and I can notice a significant amount of backlash at the front output shaft, I would say roughly an 1/8 of a turn, is that normal?

To get someone to make them for you locally would probably cost me the same and take much longer so I just bought them, hoping that I wont need to take it apart again! Adjusted the layshaft to 0.005mm endfloat and to mainshaft to 0.01mm endfloat. The gasket definitely influences the endfloat, even tightening the bearing cap.

Going through the manual again, if I understood correctly the mainshaft should have no preload and 0.01mm to 0.06mm endfloat. The layshaft as you said. 0.2mm is a bit excessive I think 🤔 Btw, was not aware how expensive the shims were!!!

I would think of it the other way round, to keep things out... btw I'm an rtv maniac 😎

Had an early start this morning, so measured the endfloat and got these readings: 0.566mm for the mainshaft and 0.390mm for the layshaft. Took the readings with the old shims installed at the bearing housing so the actual endfloat is 0.566+2.110 = 2.676mm for the mainshaft and 1.99+0.39 = 2.38mm for the layshaft. Now I need to find the shims I'll need! 🫣 If not mistaken I should get 0mm endfloat or preload for the mainshaft and 0.012mm preload or endfloat for the layshaft. Is this correct?

Not yet, I plan to do that tomorrow morning. I assembled it with the original shims and gave it a quick check, but could feel the input shaft rocking in the housing. The kit I used is from Ashcroft, bearings are like the originals Timken, made in France tho not England. Thinking about it, it could also be difference in thickness of the gaskets, and I used rtv on them so could be that made matters worse.

Ok so now I have the gearbox assembled and checked the endfloat on the mainshaft and layshaft, the play is excessive! 🤔 I was under the impression that it should have come quite near to what it was before I took it apart. Before taking it apart it had no play at all. The existing shims are 2.11mm on the mainshaft and 2.05 on the layshaft. Work I've done to it is the bearings and synchro rings replaced along with the mainshaft. Is it normal to install thicker shims than the ones mentioned above?

ROCOL MV3 Air Bonded Dry Lube, could be molybdenum disulphide grease to avoid any grease contaminating the clutch?

Sorted, found the springs but will stick on to the selector shaft...otherwise this box will be getting too expensive!

Took the rest of the gearbox apart this morning and had a closer look at the gears and synchros. The springs on the baulk rings are worn so I'll replace those. The baulk rings came with the kit so I'll replace them. Also found the selector shaft a bit worn where the fork shuttle collar slides. Does anyone know the part nos for the springs and the shaft? I bought the kit from Ashcroft but the parts I need are not on their shop. Gearbox is suffix E.

Progressing with the gearbox rebuild. Not too much time today but managed to take the case apart and had a look inside. At first impression it looks in good condition, no damaged gears. Will have a closer look when I take them apart. Noticed some blue paint on the casing and also on one of the gears, does it mean anything?

Are these td5 exhaust parts what I should be looking at? https://www.island-4x4.co.uk/front-pipe-da4348-wcd000960-wcd000500-wcd106210-bm70660-p-3762.html And https://www.island-4x4.co.uk/rear-silencer-diesel-except-australia-from-2007-from-ea449962-lr066423-p-28474.html

Clean the gasket, you should find two csk Phillips bolts on the flange face. Then get a thin wedge and tap it between the transfer box and flange and it should separate. The input gear should then slide off. If it does not, lift a wheel off the ground and turn the prop shaft while pulling at the input gear...should them come off.

I'm going for a gearbix rebuild. Had the splines not been so worn out I would have attempted to build them up with welding, but they are too worn and I'm afraid I'll end up warping the whole thing or spend an eternity filing away at the splines! Seen the videos by Mike from Brittania, not so difficult to do I think so I'm having a go at it. First issue I found was the mainshaft collar, was not coming off easy. So I copied the puller and it came off nicely...