muzaz

Yes, that welded tab at the top of the column, I can't slid the column out of the hole in the bulkhead as the tab is catching. The hole in the bulkhead is partially covered by the lower dash or parcel shelf from what I can see. Will take a pic to explain myself better.

Thanks Snagger, didn't think of it that dinitrol would make a mess, will take your advice and keep its use to a minimum required. The primer I'm using is zinc phosphate so it should be ok then. Taking the wiring off the dash and bulkhead is a nightmare! Now trying to take the steering column off, the ingition switch seems to be retained by rivets! Drilled them out and found they were screws! Now trying to wriggle the column out of the bulkhead but it's snagging. Do I need to take the lower dash out as well?

The summer heat is backing off so I can't find any excuses for not continuing this project 😏 So I continued where I left, the bulkhead... or to be more precise started rather than continued because I never started working on it! Attacked it with a grinder and wirewheel and got most of it to bare metal...ish. By tomorrow should have it mostly wireweeled, then will give it a coat of paint remover to get to the corners and any areas I missed. Now I need some advice on how best to reprotect it. My plan was to use rust converter on all of it. I have the Wurth rust converter which I tried and works ok. As a primer coat I was suggested to use a zinc phosphate paint like HG Body Chassis Coat. Then a top coat of what ever colour the truck will be painted ( still tbd). And maybe for extra measure a coat of dinitrol or similar? Is it a good plan? Progress so far:

Got a reply yesterday after another email, did get sort of a shipping quote : "Would cost almost the same as the bumper to ship this " So I'll pass on that, in the meantime I got a £160 shipping quote for the same bumper from MM4X4 which I think is reasonable enough. Might get some other stuff I need so the shipping cost is spread further.

Could be, but at least they could let me know they're working on it. I don't mind waiting but not aimlessly. An other UK based seller, Island 4x4, sends shipping quotes within a couple of days and the prices are good and delivery fast, within a week from order. I hope I do get a reply from them as prices are good, as I'm not in a hurry will wait and email them once again. Failing that will look elsewhere or local to me.

Yes, the website looks like it's up and running and their FB page last post was July, so I would think they're still doing business. I was checking on a winch bumper and other stuff they have as the prices are good. The description says to fill in a contact form for international shipping...but a couple of weeks later and follow up emails I still have to get a reply.

Does anyone know if Defenderupgrades.co.uk are still in business? I asked for shipping quotes multiple times, both using their online contact form and also by direct email. No reply. Anyone used their services recently?

One reason I would change over to disc is for offroad in mud etc. It's difficult to clean without taking everything apart, and will affect braking till they dry up.

You don't need any specific manual for the LT230 ATB, it's a direct replacement to the existing diff. So you should just use the LT230 manual and skip the part where you adjust the sun and planet gears (you don't have any in the ATB).

A bit out of subject but still related, at work we use Aeroshell 41 hydraulic fluid which gets discarded because of self life. It's red in colour and is a mineral hydraulic oil...wonder if its useable as pas oil...

Good luck! They are on sale right now about 250€ from aliexpress. Check the wiring for the solenoids, mine was not wired properly, had to redo it completely. It now works tho, I'll invest in some water proofing next.

The expander is held by the spring clips, the manual adjuster on the other hand is bolted. This is the early cable/linkage type handbrake. It took me a while to assemble the adjuster correctly, my mistake was I had the plungers 180° off, so when I pulled on the linkage, I had little to no movement on the plungers. Took them apart and rotated them and immediately the travel was much larger. This thread might be of interest.

Is the handbrake the early linkage type? I had the transfer case off recently and I took the handbrake mechanism apart to service it. The adjuster is pretty straight forward, its just a threaded cone and 2 siders, can't go wrong with the installation. However if you took the expander apart it's quite difficult to reassemble under the car. There are 2 small rollers which if not correctly positioned will not expand the brake.

A taller nut would probably help to distribute the load further.

True, true, I have suffered far too long!! I had bought this engine 20years ago for a similar project vehicle...ended up selling the vehicle after sitting for years in the garage. Not going to repeat the same mistake! So I'm aiming to get it mechanically sound, cosmetics are not really important for now... truth to be said, it is an ugly duckling of a landy, so I might give it a lick of different paint!

😳 replacement bulkhead! Was not planning that much work and besides the bulkhead is not that far gone...it's got some surface rust especially around the brake and clutch cylinder, but not totally rotten. Maybe a new bulkhead will be fitted when my daughter inherits it 🤣 I want to get it out of the workshop by end of summer latest...otherwise I'll never get to enjoy it!

Hmm, I could get it sand blasted but it's going to be a major hassle to transport it. Probably I'll have to paint strip it. To be honest I'm not trying to restore it to original condition, but I would like to at least stop further corrosion eating into it.

Heater removed, as expected the blower is jammed solid - no wonder moving the controls nothing worked! Took it all apart, the radiator seems ok, no leaks etc. Connected the blower to the battery - nothing, probably died ages ago, will get a new one. Next is the bulkhead, the plan is to clean it up and try to remove the corrosion. It looks like a big job and I'm already feeling discouraged, scraping the old paint off will take for ever, not sure if I should use paint remover or just paint over everything 🤔

Nice lathe you have there, is t the WM180? I got its bigger sister, quite useful for smallish work you might need. Remember, you will need tooling, especially if you buy a mill so buget for it. I find the mill equally useful, won't be without it. That spring on the chuck key was the first thing I got rid of, a nuisance if you ask me, same with the chuck guards, you will struggle or not be able to work at all with them on. Just be careful and use proper ppe and common sense. Use safety glasses but not gloves for example. Roll up your sleeves and remove rings and watches, etc.

Treated the parts with rust converter, which gave them a nice black finish. Will give them a couple of more coats to make sure I missed nothing. Next is the heater and blower to come off, this will be fun I think!

Still alive 😀 Parts came put pretty clean and dry...and also hot! To start with I had already degreased the parts in white spirit so most of the oils and grease was removed. All parts were steel and a bit rusty so they flash rusted straight away...but that's a good thing actually as I'm painting everything with the Wurth rust converter, and to be effective that needs the part to have some rust in the first place!

Well surprisingly she was quite understanding when she caught me loading the dishwasher, she even suggested the temperature setting and a Finish tab... The wash should end soon, wish me luck!

Not sure if I'm risking my life!!.... Probably

A bit of an update to this thread I started a while ago. I had to hold on from installing the engine as when I took the gearbox off the 2.5na I found a worn main shaft. That led to a gearbox overhaul then a transfer case overhaul. In the mean time started sourcing parts, Td5 exhaust and engine mounts etc. The engine and transmission are now all bolted together, think it will be easier to install a single lump as the only help I have is my 7 yr old daughter. I have now turned my attention to the engine bay, there is some rust I need to care of on the bulkhead, plus one of the dumb irons its rusted through but should not be a big repair. I'm tidying up the bulkhead to give it a coat of paint, so out came the clutch box and brake servo with box.There was a hydraulic leak at some point as its all rusty but fortunately not perforated. I think it will be wise to replace all the hydraulics at this stage. Progress so far, engine and transmission. Dumb iron corrosion, hopefully will be able to fix this. Corrosion to take care of and maybe tidy up the wiring - looks original but still a mess! Chris

As luck would have it I came across this thread while searching for the part no of the brake master cylinder. Just removed the brake servo and master cylinder off a 1988 nintey. The master is similar to the one in your photo and the seal (if it's a seal not sealant) is shaped like yours. Here are some pics of mine. Hope it helps