muzaz

Do you mean even taller and stiffer than the GL recommend springs? The std front NRC9447 (blu Yel) spring are 14.8" tall and 175lb/in. The OME2751 recommended by GL is 15.35" tall and 225lb/in. Half an inch taller and 50lb stiffer. Ye clearing the tyres with the added weight is my concern, might try the rear springs at the front, and see how it looks like. Will look around for borrowing some springs, there are quite a few landies over here.

Got a reply from GL and a quote with all the parts I would need according to the information I gave them. So I gave them the same info I posted here; tyres 33," all the acessories to be installed on the truck, etc. The suggested shocks are the OME 60018L for both front and rear. These are the med valved shocks. As for springs, the front pair are OME2751 and rear pair OME2762. I told them I was not after a 2 inch lift per se, but a lift which would not have the tyres rubbing and support the weight of the extra kit without sagging. However I'm a bit concerned regarding the front springs. The standard 90 front springs should be NRC9446 and NRC9447, these are 15.19" and 14.80" tall with a 175lb/in spring rate. The OME2571 are 15.35" tall with a 225lb/in spring rate. Close to the standard 90 rear springs. My concern is if they will lift enough to clear the tyres and stiff enough to hold the extra weight.

Good point there, not sure how that could work. Quoting from Gwen Lewis website: So probably you could possibly fit them but it's up to you how, as most probably you'll loose them! Then there is the issue of further lifting the truck if it has a lift kit which may cause other problems. GL has a different type isolator, a sort of a shrink sleeve. Will see when I get to that bridge. Lucky they're cheap... And even cheaper: https://www.island-4x4.co.uk/spring-isolator-rubber-anr2938-p-4889.html

I think he means the Disco 2 isolators as they have the integrated studs.

Added to the shopping list, do they go top and bottom or just at the top spring?

Maybe to avoid the annoying bang when the spring catches on the top mount while relocating? Most of the trucks I see now have changed to axle mount cones. Doubt I'll find any in this size locally, everyone wants fat tyres so the most common are 10.5" width and over. Found these online, thread looks similar to maxxis trepadors, but they are rethreads and not cheap. https://ziarelli.com/en/product/pneumatico-mountain-devils-per-uso-4-stagioni-2/?attribute_pa_larghezza=255-en&attribute_pa_altezza=85-en&attribute_pa_raggio=16-en

I was eyeing these wheels: https://4x4tyres.co.uk/product/16-x-8-challenger-true-beadlock-black-et-32/ No idea if it's a good brand or not but if they offer lifetime warranty on manufacturing, they must believe in their product! Those 255s look good on the truck, perfect size I think. The only problem is I'm not sure there's much to choose from locally as they're not a common size, I'll look around.

@landroversforever, that size tyre is what I'm after, what wheels were you using? I was thinking some negative offset would be good to clear the front arms but then I don't know if it hits the arch. I have seen mach 5 style wheels with -32 offset but maybe that's too much? My truck will be very close to yours in weight from your description, so your set up will probably be close to what I need. You had the GL rear cones with spring catcher? Why did you change to axle mounted cones?

Thank you @Chicken Drumstick Had to go through your detailed posts a couple of times to absorb all the information! Learnt a couple of things as well, thank you. Not really after looks, my truck must be one of the ugliest around, so a lift won't make it any prettier! I agree with you, if there's a setup where I can keep the standard height with the added weight on, larger tyres and better articulation, then that's what I need. I'm aiming at 33" tyres, as for width I've read countless opinions wide vs narrow. I prefer narrow, 10" to 10.5" max. Traction aids will come at a later stage, for now I put an atb in the transfercase as it was being overhauled. I was aiming at the GL challenge setup as it's got most of the things you mention @Chicken Drumstick, +5.5" shocks pin to pin for both front and rear, cranked rear arms, taller front turrets, repositioned rear shock bracket etc. As for spring dislocation, I think it's inevitable but they have a hooked cone at the rear. Sent him an email to see what springs he recommends shocks etc. But before ordering anything I will probably wait, finish rebuilding the truck, then install the heavy stuff before moving on the the suspension. Thanks again for all the help and information, think I'm set in the right direction

Thanks @bishbosh and @landroversforever. Yep, not doing any changes to the suspension for now. The truck is going through an overhaul at the moment, engine out to be replaced, transmission overhaul, bulkhead repairs etc. But in the meantime it would be worthwhile looking at what can be done to the suspension, what it takes, what's available etc. I'm also sourcing parts as I go along, otherwise it will be a big expense if I had to get everything at one go!

So let me explain a bit better. The vehicle is a Defender 90 and it's not my daily driver. I consider it more of a grown up's toy than any thing else, mainly to be used for "overland" offroad trips which may be quite challenging - mud, rocks, snow etc. I agree that lifting the vehicle will not achieve better clearance. But lifting it I can fit larger tyres, and that will increase clearance and also better articulation. Also, as mentioned in my original post, I will be fitting front and rear winches plus bumpers roll cage guards etc...all these will surely weigh the landy down if I keep the standard springs. So in reality longer or harder springs would be needed no? I'm not on a tight buget, not an open cheque of course, but I can spend a bit on it.

I'm planning to upgrade the suspension for my D90 in the near future so I started shopping around and reading up on the subject to inform myself. However it's not easy when it comes to springs and shocks! I want a 2" lift and will probably go for Gwen Lewis challenge kit as it looks simple and well tested. Gigglepin sells it and shipping is very reasonable. When it comes to springs and shocks, from what I understood, the vehicle weight plays an important part. So I have to consider add ons which will be added weighing the vehicle down. The plan is to have a winch and hd bumper up front, rear winch and tray at the rear, the usual underbody guards (steering, tank, diffs, rock sliders etc.) and probably a roll cage, not a full external, just around the windshield and front cabin. Not planning to travel loaded up, so most of the time apart from the mentioned fixed items the vehicle will be empty. Was looking at OME springs and shocks as they are mostly highly rated. For shocks I found these two part numbers, 60070L and 60018L one is harder than the other but I wouldn't know which to choose! Same with the springs, I have a list of OME springs with different spring rates, spring heights, load ratings etc, but I wouldn't know what goes where! Any help so shed some light into this dark subject would be greatly appreciated! Chris

Yea, but there's some confusion regarding the part numbers on the actual piston and those on the parts list. The STD piston has two part nos, one slightly larger than the other due to bore tollerance during production, hence the TX and TY markings on the piston crown. Still these are regarded as STD size which should be Err1390 or Err1391.

Agreed, however if you zoom in to the piston crown (photo at the top of the thread) you can just make out a part no, and its definitely not err1390 or err1391, can you see it?

While on the subject of pistons, shouldn't standard size piston pn be ERR1390? On the photo I posted above I just can make the pn as ERR0953, not a recognized LR part no.. 🤔

I have two disco 200tdi and both blocks are gold ish...if you scrub it long enough! If it's a recon, most probably it was painted gold to reflect the original color The X and Y markings I believe correspond to the bore size. Mine was marked TY, you can just make it out if you zoom in.

Have a look here: Drilled the hole like he says, makes it much easier!

Not exactely sure how, but the passenger footwell is out! Got bored looking at it half expecting the rust to grow back to steel... Tried to take it out from the spotwelds as much as possible. Took the complete thing off so hopefully I should not have much welding to do to put it back. Now I need a new one, will check local to me first, probably it will be a Britpart. Found this double skin, ribbed like the original one, not sure if its worth the x3 price tho! Are there any repair panels for the area - to the left of the wiper motor. I could probably fabricate a piece, but bending and curving that lip will be difficult I think 🤔

Tempted! Anchor or rivnuts all round, some pr1440 in between and tighten it up! Haha! Yea lets not go there! Probably I'll do mix of both, will see how it goes along and adapt on the way.

Thanks for the video link, helpful to understand the process. Not sure I can source co2/ar mix locally, I only ever used my tig with argon. Yea auto-darkening helmet was the first thing I bought as I found it impossible to tig without one. Not buying a mig welder any time soon so I'll give it a try with what I have and see how it goes. Will try to split it from the spot welds, at least that would be easier than full welds. Then the rest I'll rivet in. Over here I don't think mot testers go into such detail. You'll fail for obvious damage such as rust holes and exposed rust, or a nasty patch on a chassis or bodge repairs. Still, I really don't understand the adversity to riveting, airliners are all held together with sealant bolts and rivets after all !

Good write up @FridgeFreezer spent the evening going through the posts and photos, it's just about the same work I have to do. Problem is I'm not a particularly good welder, especially on thin sheet metal and at that length of welds. My welder is a combi stick/tig welder, maybe tack welding with tig might do it. My plan was to cut the whole floor and leave a 1" tab along the perimeter. Then seal and rivet in a new floor. @FridgeFreezer should the repair footwell be double skin or a single sheet would be better?

This morning attacked the dash and took it out. I was sort of dreading it but turned out to be pretty straightforward. The wiring!! 😳 spaghetti is an understatement. Will try to sort it out a bit better and maybe run it inside a conduit. After taking the dash off, the column could slide out of the bulkhead with ease...something to remember! Taking a closer look at the bulkhead pass side beside the wiper motor I can see trouble...hmm Took the pass side mudguard to investigate a bulge at the footwell area and found what looks like a patch repair. Is the footwell double skinned? If it's not then its repaired by slapping a piece of sheet metal from inside. Have to plan a bit now, on how to proceed, where to cut etc...and access isn't actually great because of the outrigger...

This project is a constant struggle! On one side my mind is telling me to close my eyes, hurry up and get on with it. But my hands will have none of that, and will end up taking the truck apart to the last bolt nut and washer! So be it, will take the dash out and dig deeper! Snagger I was going to use something like AV8 or 15, but not coat the whole bulkhead just the crevices and the rain gutter and try to get some in between the double skin. Not aiming to get in in like new condition, it's a 35year old bulkhead after all. But for its age it's in a very good condition so I'm trying to preserve it. The wiper motor needs looking to as it does not park, just stops where the I switch off! So might as well look to it.

I tried manipulating it around with no success, that tab keeps catching the bulkhead, and the column can only go one way out...from the engine bay side. Will think about it and try to convince myself it does not need to come out!

This is a view from the inside, the hole in the dash is oval but part of it is covered. This is a view from the outside Got a feeling I will have to take the lower dash out.