muzaz

Gearbox and transfer case bolted together and mated to the engine. I'm surprised I didn't end up with the odd extra bolt and nut! The transfer case linkage caused me some head scratching as I forgot how it went in and didn't take any photos before removing. But it now seems to operate correctly. The clutch release bearing clip also gave me a hard time, I installed a LOF clutch and the spring clip was different to the standard. The clip insisted on sliding off the fork. But there's no other way to put it on and after contacting Lof - btw they were really helpful, I sort of convinced myself it's in the right place. Now I only hope I did a good job and everything works out fine, fingers crossed! 🤞

No worries, thought of that. The yellowish stuff you see on the head is non hardening jointing compound, applied to both ends. I doubt it will ever leak as the pin is really tight and then there's the seal.

Hmm... don't know, been in contact with Shabs at Syncro and told me they do them interference fit on purpose so there's no movement at all. But to install something like that you'd need liquid nitrogen. Anyway, I think my fix should hopefully work without leaking...time will tell. Transfer case all assembled now, just need to install the engine, gearbox and case 🥵

Yes I noticed...after a while 🫣 So, doing the final assembly and going over the last bits I notice something coming out of the intermediate shaft where I installed the bush...a sliver of the o-ring!! Now I've heared it's possible to damage the o-ring but at the other end! Took the shaft out again, finessed it with sandpaper made sure no burrs etc, put a new seal and re-installed...seal damaged again, same exact damage. Ended up installing a smaller seal and this time it was ok. I suspect the new HD pin has a slightly oversize seal groove which does not leave enough space for seal compression.

Ok I managed to open those manuals, thanks. From what I gathered the diff needs 4.5kg or 1.69nm preload. The input needs 9kg or 2.25nm but you need an adapter. The intermediate needs 3kg on top of what was measured at the input. Fairly complicated and at least one tool is required (LST 105) to do it by the book. If I knew the diameter of the tool I could possibly machine one and do it right. In the absence of the tool I will do it by feel, not too loose not too tight! After all looking at the values in the manual it seems to be quite tight!

Can't open them, says access restricted. I used the manual from Ashcroft website, but that's requiring some special tooling etc. But what I gathered is that for new bearings you always need 0.05mm of preload, so I individually set the diff, the intermediate cluster and the input gear to 0.05mm preload.

Update: HD intermediate shaft from Synchro Gearboxes arrived, had to fettle it a bit to make it fit in the bush as it's just slightly over size, also chamfered the flat so it doesn't catch the o-ring. Rather than the crush tube I went for a solid tube to set the intermediate shaft bearings preload, having a lathe means I could adjust the tube length easily. Now it's assembly of the case. I adjusted the diff preload and then assembled the intermediate gear clusterin the case. I'm noting that now with the diff installed the turning resistance is significantly increased. Is there a value of how much this should be? I put a string on the intermediate gear and I'm getting roughly 5 to 6kg force where as without the diff it was 2kg. It does not feel notchy or too stiff to turn, but It's not free wheeling. Any thoughts?

Will try to remove the plastic and see if it fits any better. It would be a pity if I had to scrap it as it had no play at all, but I'm afraid if I left it as it was I might damage the transfer box.

Luckly the winch is not in the list....but... taking a closer look at it I can see it needs some work done to it...not complaining tho, at €275 delivered I'm not expecting Warn quality. So opened the electrical box and sure enough there are some issues, all fixable... the cable glands are all loose, the solenoids are not bolted down, the box has molded nuts and the solenoids have attachment holes but no bolts. Wiring is all over the place and kinked. Nothing I cannot fix.

While the engine and gearbox were out of my 1988 nintey I took the front prop shaft out to service it. UJs felt fine no wear or play, however the front yoke would not slide on the splines. No amount of hammering would make it budge, not even a hair! A black finger nail later I had had enough, out came the sledge hammer and after a bashing it finally separated. Looking closely at the splines there is no significant wear or rust, but I noticed some kind of resinous/plasticy material covering the male part. Cleaned the splines and tried to refit but it's not happening. Shouldn't the yoke be free sliding on the splines?

Yup!! Did you take it apart to check it out, grease proper sealing etc or you just used it as it came? Noticed a couple of screws on the gearbox end which were not fully tight and my hands are itching to open it up and have a look inside! 🫣

Winch arrived, all in one piece at first look. Quite heavy! For now it will go back in the box, it will be a while before I put the vehicle all back in one piece but hopefully by the end of summer I should get there and mount the winch!

Not exactely what you need, I built a fixed over head gantry crane out of 100x50x5 i beam to take out the engine. One advice I'll give you regarding the carriage, if its not geared it will want to centre itself when under load. So the gantry needs to be level. Carriages are u channel with bearing rollers.

Good idea! Leave it for Tuesday 🥵 40°c

That would be ideal but I got a problem, Ashcroft's HD intermediate shaft will be available mid August so I ordered from Synchro Gearboxes but apparently their shaft is interference fit in the bush. I do not wish to disturb the alignment just incase I have to skim the bush.

Started early this morning as the heat will become unbearable later on. Machined the transfer case to accept the bush for the intermediate shaft. Left the hole 0.02mm undersize as recommended on the Ashcroft site and will attempt to fit the bush later. Put it in the freezer hoping it will shrink slightly as I don't have a press 🥴

Parts arrived yesterday, now I just need to find the will to continue...it's getting too hot over here 😫

Might have to upgrade mine as I believe it's only 65A on the 200tdi.

Are you using a separate battery for the winch or the main battery should be good enough?

Thanks, good to have some first hand experience, enough to convince myself! Just placed an order for one.🙂

Great! They had a similar winch rated at 13000lb with 176:1 rather than 265:1 gearing, that could be faster... but had no shipping options for my location. But then again, I don't think there'll be any particular hurry while winching as long as I get unstuck.

Not much experience or knowledge about winches, the price compared to what I can get locally is definitely cheap. What about the specs are they acceptable for a defender 90? I don't foresee it will be used often.

Looking online for winches I came across this winch from Vevor. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005004913800707.html At €275 delivered it caught my attention and looking at the specs it's listed as 13500lb capacity with a 6.8hp motor, a 265:1 reduction, IP67, synthetic rope etc. Anyone came across or owns such a winch? What are your opinions about it?

I put sealant on both the block, and the housing. Not sure there was any need to, but I don't think it will hurt anything. I hate oil leaks!

I used a dial guage mounted on the spindle, clocked it on the central part where the o-ring on the shaft mates with the hole in the casing as that's the unworn area in the hole.