need4speed

As title. For a 1999 model. If it makes any difference, the dash will have the tachometer instead of the analogue clock. TIA Phil

My spidey senses were tingling...... To be honest the reason i went for the td5 harnesses was the fact that i wanted the better sumitomo connectors and td5 instruments. Also, and i cant stress this point highly enough, they were at the right price Its not a big job converting the loom to your requirements if your good with auto electrics...which im not so its a big deal to me. However with help of some knowledgeable folks on here (a special big thanks to PaulMc) im getting there..

Im sorry but......

That wont pose any problem

I might just have one in the scrap skip. I chucked my old heater out a while back. Not sure how the arm comes off though. If i remember right there isnt a nut on it?

Yea the arm is completely missing from the rod. Looks like i need to fabricate a new one. Just hacked off with the guy though... Thanks Ralph

Damned Ebay! Bought a td5 heater from a guy on ebay who was breaking a 110. Assured me it was in great nick. His feedback was 100% so took a punt. Heater arrived today and i immediately notice that its missing the arm on top. The one that the cable attaches to. Ive scoured the usual online catalogues but it appears that this arm cannot be bought separately - not unless a certain parts guru on here...ahem Ralph, knows otherwise?

....and the ugliest bumper of the year award goes to.......

Yes it will

Looking for seals / bearings for AN2003. Ive been able to get part numbers for seals / bearings for other pumps but for some reason cant find for the AN2003?

Thanks Ralph. Your a star mate. That looks very much like it

I need one of the large grommets that fit into the td5 seatbox. Ive highlighted the kind im looking for. Thanks.

I was considering keeping them in place but then i will never put a diesel in there in place of the 4.6 so no point of keeping the harness original.

Thanks Steve. Yeah ive already looked at Adams thread. Just the very sight of all those wires makes beads of sweat form on my brow....

What would the best method be? Maybe a spot of vaseline on the bare ends, and then a heat-shrink end cap?

In the ongoing quest of wiring up the 110 ive come to realize that an awful lot of my TD5 wiring loom is redundant. This is because of me running an RV8 which will be megasquirted, and therefore meaning that i do not need any of the TD5 glowplug, ECU and fault diagnosis circuitry. This amounts to a fair old chunk of wires. Can i just cut the stuff off that i dont need and seal the ends? This would allow me to run the MS loom along the same route as the TD5 ECU wiring into the drivers side seatbox. This would be very neat and mean that no big loom will be visible inside the cab. Al thoughts welcome...

R380

Jeff certainly had a time of it. Poor bugger. The only thing that would make things easier for me is the fact that the steering box will be on the bench. Still, unless someone has successfully rebuilt one that has actually lasted, i can see me having to shell out. Are there checks i can do to the box itself to determine whether its a good un? You see the box i have is dry and not connected up to anything..

Thanks CW. I'll have a read.

Well im led to believe that if theres any wear on the shaft then the chances of the replacement LR seals working more than a few weeks are slim. However im told thats why Zeus developed a seal that seals on an unworn section of the shaft. I was hoping someone on here had actually rebuilt the box? If someone that has done it says 'dont bother, its a b*ll-ache of a job' then fair enough, i'll save up and shell out for an exchange adwest. The thing is for the price of a seal kit versus £300 its not to be sniffed at..

Im intending to rebuild the 4-bolt steering box using a seal kit from Zeus Engineering. Ive been informed that these are a better design than the LR seals. Also i was told that they seal on a different part of the shaft therefore creating a better seal if the shaft is slightly worn. Havent gone ahead and ordered the seals yet so i was wondering if there is some way i can check the box to see if its even worth working on? Have looked for a rebuild guide on the technical forum but the link didnt work for me. Can anyone point me in the direction of a rebuild guide please as never done one before.. Just to add: Ive heard that filling the steering box with one-shot grease instead of the normal fluid is a worthwhile thing to do as well??

Cant see me having to use them much so if there in the way i'll just fix vents shut and not use the levers

Ive still to encounter the vent lever problem as i havent fitted them yet. What part of the dash did you have to cut??

I used the 200tdi motor that i already had but fitted new brush pack, td5 gear (as you will need that if you use td5 wheelboxes) so you get correct angle of wiper throw. The actual spiral drive itself is the same as far as i recall. Though its quite a while since i fitted it.

Firstly you will need to use td5 wiper wheelboxes due to the oval holes as you mention. If you want to keep the old style dash you will have to cut the td5 wiper motor mounting plate off and mount the wiper motor in original tdi position. If you keep the mounting plate in situ my understanding is that you would need to use later dash. I had a similar issue. I have td5 wiper wheelboxes and bulkhead but want to use early dash as i want to fit raptor dash for carling switches etc. I just cut the td5 plate off. HTH