need4speed

When making this up, would i be correct in thinking that i dont need to solder wires from pins 3,4,5,and 6 of the DB37 connectors? Im sure i read somewhere that these were only required if running MS2? Or is there another reason i should include them anyway?

As per Niges recommendations i want to use the 300TDI air cleaner assembly on my 4.6. Has anyone used this? If so, is the air cleaner body mounted to the V8 using the standard 300TDI air cleaner mounting brackets or is fabricating some brackets necessary?

Not sure if this post should be in here or the MS section. I'll let Ralph decide if it should be moved.... Anyways going on advice from Nige, i want to use the 300TDi air cleaner mod on my V8. Now as i understand it i require the body itself which i think is ESR2102? However what other parts will i need to carry out the conversion? For example what will the body bolt on to? And what hoses will i need to make it work? Cheers Phil

Jaaaysus H Kerrrist!!! Yes i see exactly why you dont repair any tom, dick and harry's ecu after seeing that abomination....

Well done Nige. However why does it say you dont do repairs? I thought you did. And if not, who do i send the ecu to when i eventually cook it!

Just seen this now. So cool. Those conrods are a complete work of art..

My advice would be whatever you decide to do, steer well clear of pattern doors. Better to buy later 2nd hand genuine doors than brand new pattern doors. I bought 2 spanking new pattern doors for my 110, only to discover that they were a good half inch shorter than my old genuine doors. Got them replaced by the company i bought them from for another pair. Exactly the same!! Ended up demanding a full refund (which thankfully i got without too much hassle). In the end i bought some very late steel-type doors for the same amount of money. These filled the holes their supposed to fit into nicely!

I'll tell you right now....they will have nothing to do with it

Forgive me but id have that in a heart-beat if i could afford it....

Some will no doubt say auto...... Me? I like the idea of changing gear when i want - not when the gearbox wants.... R380 all the way.

2 points well put. I'll make sure i connect them through a relay

Im pretty sure ive seen this before. Did someone on here have it at sometime? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BOWLER-TOMCAT-WILDCAT-V8-4X4-LAND-ROVER-RACE-RALLY-OFF-ROAD-AWD-OH-MY-GOD-/221278769081?pt=Automobiles_UK&hash=item33853e0fb9#ht_3255wt_1170

Just wondering if i can get away with wiring up 4 X-Lites without having to use a relay? I will be using a Carling switch. These are rated to 20A.

But then surely alarm bells should ring? It means that ur not protected by paypal T&C's and lay yourself wide open for a reaming.... Im in no way condoning what these people (and others like them) are doing, but surely in these times of so many companies trying to rip us off, we need to be more responsible for our hard-earned....

Maybe im missing something here? Correct me if im wrong, but doesnt ebay/paypal rules now dictate that funds transferred into a sellers paypal account (in this case No Fear Offroad or whatever) cannot transfer/use those funds until the buyer of the goods not only receives said goods, but is happy with them?

90 or 110?

Thanks Ralph At least that will make the heater more secure. Still dont understand why me bulkhead doesnt have any holes in that area.

Aha! Thanks guys. My next problem is my TD5 bulkhead very strangely does not have these 3 holes... Oh well. Guess i need to drill my own somehow. Looks like its gonna be tricky to mark where the holes should be drilled...... Phil

Attaching the heater onto the bulkhead today. Am I correct in saying that its only attached by 2 M8 screws? Seems a bit odd yet the parts catalogue seems to confirm. I notice there appears to be a bracket at the bottom of heater but none of the holes appear to line up with anything on the bulkhead. Should there be foam or something between this bracket and the bulkhead as it appears it may rattle metal to metal against the bulkhead?? Very flimsy design.

Odyssey all the way. Dont know who it was said Odyssey were bad but i suspect they dont know as much as they say they do....

As for this "what RV8 is best" debate, have look at this.... http://www.mez.co.uk/TuningTheRoverV8-pt4.html Table half way down comparing engines. If were talking about commonly available engines, ie nothing exotic, then id pick a well rebuilt 4.6. Its about torque more than all-out revs for a Defender id have thought.... Maybe its just me being biased...

Im sure the TDV6 would be spendy, but then i cant imagine the Puma route would be cheap either once everything is considered...

Rather than a rattly 4-pot (at least the td5 can sound good....for a diesel) why not look at the TDV6

Theres no replacement for displacement..... 4.6 is the answer to your question. Im sure a certain waxoyl-wielding garfield will be along soon to say 5.2 but we dont all have his bank balance available...

I always like having all the info available, keeps me in good stead when helping out friends etc So id be ever so grateful if i could have a copy kind sir