need4speed

After noticing an error in my previous harness connector table, ive posted a corrected version. I would appreciate someone helping me out with telling me what needs moving where. Due to the post preview not working im hoping the table doesnt lose its format. Knowing my luck it will. Here goes. 1999 Main Harness 2002 Chassis Harness Plug 1 (C0377) Grey (C1760) Orange/Green - Reverse Lamps to Reverse Switch Orange/Green White/Black – Header to Heated Rear Screen White/Black White/Green – Rear Screen Wiper Motor White/Green Brown/Lt Green – Rear Screen Wash/Wipe Switch Black/Green Red/Lt Green – Rear Screen Wash/Wipe Switch Green/Black Orange/Green – Water Filter Sensor Orange/Green Plug 2 (C0378) Black (C0392) Purple – Engine Compartment Fusebox to C0392 Purple Grey/Black – Instrument Pack to C0392 (Fuel Sender) Green/Black – Instrument Pack to C0392 (Fuel Sender) Purple/White – Fuel Pump Relay to C0392 White/Purple ? White/Purple Plug 3 (C0376) Orange (C0390) Red/Orange – Header to Tail Lamp RH Red/Orange Red/Black – Header to Tail Lamp LH Red/Black Red/Yellow – Instrument Pack to C0390 (Rear Fog) Red/Yellow Green/Red – Header to C0390 (Indicator Rear LH) Green/Red Green/White – Header to C0390 (Indicator Rear RH) Green/White Green/Purple – Header to C0390 (Tail Lamps) Green/Purple Grey White Green/Brown

Yes but if you notice from my original table at top of post, Plug1 (C0391) has 2 green/brown wires. One of which i have matched to a green/brown on the orange chassis harness plug (C0390). Im also left with a green/red (C0391), red (C0376), green/black (C0377), white, red/orange, grey (C0390)

Yep i get that. My problem however is the fact that i have a green/brown left over on connector C0391. Now according to RAVE that particular wire should be used on ALL models...

Also, although i have RAVE, when i type the connector number into the search function, it doesnt seem to show where all the different colour wires go?

Ive been speaking to PaulMc and DaveW but i think they've disappeared for the hols Was just putting it out there to see if anyone has had the same issues..

Trying to wire up the 110 so i can get on with the megasquirt and get this thing running. I need to match up a pre-2002 main harness to a post-2002 chassis harness. Both are TD5 types. I have compiled a list below showing plugs 1-3 of the main harness, and their corresponding chassis harness connectors that they should match up to. I have shown the RAVE connector numbers next to each connector. I understand that i will need to move some wires around between connectors to get things mating up between the chassis harness and main harness connectors but my problem is that no matter what combination i try, im left with some spare wires left over that dont appear to have a home. Could someone please tell me what i need to do so i can get on with this... 1999 MAIN HARNESS - 2002 CHASSIS HARNESS PLUG 1 (C0391) - CHASSIS GREY (C0377) Orange/Green, Green/Brown, Green/Brown Orange/Green, Green/Black, Green/Black White/Green, White/Black, Green/Red White/Green, White/Black, Grey/Black PLUG 2 (C0392) - CHASSIS BLACK (C0378) Purple, Purple/White, Green/Black Purple, Purple/White Grey/Black PLUG 3 (C0376) - CHASSIS ORANGE (C0390) Red/Black, Red/Yellow, Red/Green Red/Black, Red/Yellow, Red/Green White/Green, Green/Purple, Red White/Green, Green/Purple, White Green/Brown, Red/Orange, Grey

The reason i havent seriously looked into the nut n bolt method is due to some saying it works, and others saying it doesnt. Especially with M8 rivnuts..

Look good but BIG difference in price. £85 for 6 or so rivnuts is a bit rich for me..

Sounds good to me Paul. Ping me a pm or email me a paypal request for the required amount Phil

I have a heater from a 200tdi therefore it has the old-style harness connector. However my main wiring harness is a td5 type, and so the connector for the heater is like this... How do i go about chopping off the old connector from the heater, and adding a plug that will match my td5 harness above? Can it even be done? Thanks Phil

It will affect the gearing across the entire range - not just 5th as previously mentioned. Still, the different ratio box isnt going to cause any kind of weird noises so that was not the original issue...

He hasnt been on the forum since march 2011 so i wouldnt be holding my breath lol

Ive got hands like shovels so thats all good

http://www.ebay.co.u...=item53ed463916 Has anyone ever used one of these before? Obviously a bit cheap n nasty for doing lots of them, but how about doing the odd rivnut here and there?

I NEVER use stretch bolts. Hate 'em. Yes i know the purists will be on quick as a flash saying theres nowt wrong with them etc etc.... My opinion? Chuck em in the bin. For one thing now that you've stretched them by fitting them, are you now going to trust putting 80lbft into them again? I use HT cap head bolts from V8D. Though im sure you can get similar from other places. One advantage of bolts like these is the fact that you use them time and time again.

tbh ive never bothered with the 90 plus 90 rubbish. Listening to Ray at V8D i did mine at 30lbft then 80lbft. Job done.

If they all start clicking at once it will be like someone in the back playing maracas...

Many of you have probably heard this before, but i thought it needed refreshing..... Just a quick note regarding shut lines on a Land Rover Defender . . . In the early 80's it was widely reported that Mitsubishi wanted to test the effectiveness of the door seals on the Shogun both to prevent water ingress during wading and to keep out the sand when entering the various desert races they had entered. All their measuring equipment proved inconclusive so they locked a cat into the vehicle and went away for a few hours. When they later returned the cat had suffocated, neatly proving that the air-tight security of the Sogun was satisfactory. Not wanting to be outdone the men-in-brown-overalls at Solihull decided to try the same experiment with the (then) new 90 and 110. A scraggy moggy was obtained and locked into a Land Rover fresh of the line. The engineers firstly ensured that all doors and windows were firmly closed then went to lunch. When they returned the cat had escaped!

Thats a good point james. i will take a look at the back of the dash tomorrow.

Has anyone opened up the hole in bulkhead to match heater outlet? If so, was it worth the effort?

Hmm never considered opening up the hole in the bulkhead. Interesting idea. Im sure that would let quite a bit more airflow through. Surprised i havent heard of that one before considering how many people moan about how carp the heater output is...

Can anyone tell me if there are differences between the tdi heater, and the one fitted to the td5? I know that the electrical plug is different where it attaches to harness but i was wondering if there are any other differences? Reason im asking is that ive noticed that the hole in the td5 bulkhead where heater attaches, is a lot smaller than the opening in the heater body itself?

To be honest i cant see the ratio of the transfer-box having anything to do with the issues you described. Still, glad to hear you got the selector fork problem sorted

Loving that idea lol