need4speed

Im carpeting the bulkhead behind the front seats of the 110. There is a golf-ball sized dent that i need to flatten a bit before i stick the carpet down. I tried tapping it flat with a hammer but discovered just how resilient the birmabright is... Is the trick to add some heat first? Its obviously not going to glow cherry red like steel so how can i tell its soft enough to flatten without melting a hole in it? Any tricks?

Hmmmm "customers" and "part of a kit" you say....... Whats cooking Nige?

Thanks for that Duncan. Think i'll go ahead and buy it then, as i dont envisage having to do any soldering out in the cold wind (famous last words....)

Looking for a soldering iron for making up my MS loom. Was looking at a little Antex 25W. Will this be up to the job of soldering wires onto the D37 plugs?

Thanks guys. I will go with original plan then. Cheers

As title. Im mounting all my MS hardware into my enclosure and was wondering about the EDIS. Due to size of my enclosure i had planned to screw the EDIS on its side onto some 12mm square plywood dowels, which in turn are araldite'd onto side of enclosure. Im pretty sure i recall someone knowledgable (think it was maybe Jon) saying it wasnt essential to heatsink it. Could someone maybe confirm this to be the case? Phil

The RV8 absolutely, positively demands genuine rover lifters. No they aint cheap, but they are a must..

Hmmm. Im interested in this trumpet chopping you speak of! If its worthwhile i may as well do them while im in there with the sealer eh?

Its long gone....

Ross i would make sure that every inch of wire is properly taped up before putting the harnesses into the split conduit. This stuff has a nasty habit of chafing wires over time, as no doubt a lot of older defender owners could testify to...

If i may be so bold.... Maybe if Sam is finished with tuning etc, this thread should be trimmed and locked as was suggested a while back. Its way too good a thread to be filled with off-topic stuff. Just an idea for the mods as every time i see a new post i think something useful tuning-wise has been added, only to find it hasnt....

I was thinking of just blanking the 2 hoses off for this. Has anyone had any issues doing so?

Certainly interested in learning more on the larger version housing all the major components

Is the plan to provide the ECU, Relay Board and EDIS a waterproof enclosure, or is it solely going to be for the ECU?

Any further forward on this idea Nige?

What needed doing to the tubular crossmember in order to make it fit?

Ahh now i see why you would need the tubular cross-member...

Cant see it in any diagrams or pics - Its getting chopped.

What the hell IS that plug? Cant i chop it off?

Yes that would be quite handy Toby. Thanks

Thanks for clearing that up Nige. Id have given you a call but didnt want to hassle you. Thought id give someone else a shot for a change So can i go ahead and snip that plug off, and extend the wire for SAW?

Looking at how im going to house EDIS, ECU and Relay Board this morning, and as such had my first real look at how the EDIS is configured. Pin 3 of the EDIS has this plug attached. No problem, as the MS guide says Pin 3 is IDM and i should just remove it as its not used. However, looking at the wiring diagram for the EDIS it says Pin 3 is SAW and that Pin 2 is IDM. The MS Wiring Diagram also shows Pin 3 as being a pink SAW wire going to Pin 36 of the D37 plug. Huge apologies if this has been discussed before but im a bit confused by this.

yep thats what i meant about 6 o'clock, 12 o'clock....

oooo that looks handy

Its got nothing to do with where it is in relation to the woodruff key. The dots on the cam and crank wheels should be next to each other. Ie dot on cam at 6 o'clock and dot on crank at 12 o'clock. Providing cylinder 1 at TDC