need4speed

Check 1st post guys. Ive been using jewellers screwdrivers but it doesnt work for some reason. Ive been persevering but im just going to end up breaking something. I just wondered if there was something specific for those terminals..

Hmmm not sure. maybe the 2 pronged thing on the green tool would do it.

Does anyone know if there is a tool available to remove the terminals/wires from defender fuseboard? The terminals are like the type ive shown. Ive tried using tiny screwdrivers but no joy. I dont want to break anything. Ive already chewed one. Thankfully it was an unused wire!

Thanks Nige. Do you think its worth doing them all, or just the loose one? Is it a common prob?

As title. On fitting the plenum base i discovered a loose stack/trumpet. It appears that its all the way home in the base so i assume i need to seal it in with something. Whats the best thing to use? Would i be best to seal them all seeing as i have 1 loose maybe others will follow??

Eventually i will get a custom system made up, but for now im just looking for a cheap-as-possible bolt together solution. Im currently using the disco twin port cast manifolds. Ive heard some folks saying that you can use the standard disco down-pipes/Y piece mated to a TD5 system. Would part number ESR225 suffice? Also, will i be able to retain the defender gearbox cross-member, or will i need to get a hold of one from a disco?

Neither. I prefer 3M schutz.

Loving the sticker in 1st pic "READ OPERATION INSTRUCTIONS" ........ Instruction 1. "Dont feed rod into mains power source"

No im not doing without it. Im just using the FP relay on the MS relay board rather than the one in the main harness

Thanks for the reply al. PaulMc has been helping via email. We have decided it would be better to ditch the LR relay (along with some of its wires i dont need) and use the relay on the MS board. Cheers

Ok thanks fridge. I understand. Next question is, im using one of nige's pre-built relay boards which have the fuel pump, and main relays incorporated into it. So what do i do with the relays that are already part of the main harness? Can i use both or should i ditch some? Does it matter?

My little brain is having some trouble figuring out a few things regarding MS wiring. Please bare with me here, as when it comes to wiring im a wee bit fick....yes really!! Im using fuel pump STC4344 (shortened to fit in plastic TD5 fuel tank) Wiring diagram for megasquirt shows that there are WP wires going to quite a few different components. Brain fart 1. Rave shows that my chassis harness (2002 TD5) has 2 wires going to fuel pump. WP (pump to pump relay) and GB (pump to fuel gauge). So do i ignore the WP wire shown in the MS wiring diagram and assume i already have a WP wire going from pump to relay? Brain fart 2. Looking at the pic i took of my pump before modding/fitting in tank. it doesnt look like it has a WP wire at all... Brain fart 3. Looking at MS diagram there appear to be several different WP wires required for different components. In reality are these all separately run wires, or are they spliced into 1?

Erm...Nige sells em... Now after that blatant plug Nige, would you check yer bloody email..

Nice job. I prefer the black anodized one opposed to the natural finish. Looks more factory and doesnt stick out like a cartoon thumb..

Ive got to the end of my.... err 'trimming' of the main harness. About half of it is unused and will be heading towards the bin. Its looking a lot neater. Ive only made 1 mistake (that i know of) which i dont thinks too bad. I inadvertently snipped a wire that turns out to be for the Inertia Switch. The switch has 2 wires: a Green/Brown and a Brown. The Green/Brown goes from the switch to a header, however the Brown (that i snipped) goes from the switch to god knows where... I checked RAVE but i can only seem to see where the Green/Brown goes. Could someone tell me where the Brown goes please? Main harness for '99 TD5.

Fair point. I was actually going to just use loom tape, then finish it off with heatshrink.

I would never use stainless on suspension mounts, props etc but figured they would be ok on the manifold. I will swap them out for genuine though. Oh and depending how much nightnurse you take with that malt, maybe down then up

Bloody 'ell Nige. You feelin alright I hope its a hotwire manifold......you told me it was! lol. It came with hotwire injection stuff bolted to it so hope so. You've got me doubting now. How do i tell. Yea its stainless allen bolts holding the inlet manifold on. Is this a bad idea?

Thanks for all the advice chaps I will try removing the wires without removing them if i can once ive removed all the tape. If that doesnt work i'll try the silicon grease as Les suggests. Phil

That could be the e-plating your referring to?

No i think you misunderstand. I can get them in and out of bulkhead easy enough. Its removing them from harness i mean. So i can remove wires from loom properly..

On my inlet manifold there are 2 threded holes next to each other. I thought they were temp sensor/sender holes??

Ok so im in the middle of modifying my main harness to suit my needs. Im having to remove a lot of stuff that i dont need and therefore making it a lot smaller/neater. I was wondering how people go about removing the big rubber bungs that go into the bulkhead. Both of them seem very tight to the point that they dont seem to want to move. Also, can these be purchased separately? I seem to remember seeing them on ebay but last time i looked couldnt see them?

Nope unfortunately i need the whole lot wired up. Just another outlay i'll have to take on the chin...

That sounds like the one Ralph, but bloody hell its spendy! Wonder if theres a cheaper way to do it.