need4speed

I noticed that there is a large hole in the passenger side footwell of my td5 bulkhead. Doing some searches i found conflicting opinions...surprise surprise. I found one article that suggested its for the routing of the td5 wiring loom. Another said it was for air-con pipework on those vehicles that had it as an option. Which is true? If its a hole for air-con equipment i will just blank it off.

Looking for help as im getting really disheartened. I fitted a TD5 chassis loom some while back and now getting round to fitting the main loom. Removed the loom from the large box hoping that it would make more sense once i had it layed out on the floor. How wrong was i? It looks as though someone has done some fettling on it at some point as there are a few scotchbloks here and there. Even i know thats not good! The long and the short of it is i dont know where to start with fitting this loom. Im not even sure how to route it as i never removed the loom so couldnt make notes on how it came out. Obviously i recognize the fusebox so should i just start there? It would be a big help if someone who has wired up a TD5 from scratch could give me some inspiration as im flat out of it just now... Just to add insult to injury i tried to upload some pics i took of the loom and my camera wont work

Hi James. Ive got no reason to think your being condescending. Although ive been at my project part-time over a few years im certainly no LR expert. Far from it! I'll compare what i have with what you've said and go from there. Any idea how i go about routing it if its the 300TDi loom? From the little ive learned i understand i may have to drill hole in bulkhead! Is this really necessary?!

As title. Is there an easy way to tell the difference between the 2 if the part number sticker is absent? My project uses a TD5 bulkhead and i understand that the wiring loom routing is different between the 300TDi and TD5. I bought a good wiring loom from a forum member a while back but he wasnt 100% which type it was. Obviously if its a TD5 loom, i can just route it a la TD5 but if its a 300TDi loom im unsure how i'll need to route it?

The gauges will be vdo oil pressure, voltmeter and clock. Not sure about what the switches will be feeding yet as i will have some more on a roof console as well. It sounds as though id be better fitting an additional fusebox. I'll aim to fit it in seatbox under drivers seat as the nearside seatbox will have 2 batteries in it. Is there any tips/tricks to fitting an extra fusebox? Im not that great with electrickery..

Im planning to fit a raptor dash incorporating extra carlling switches, 3 gauges and cd player. Will i need to run all the necessary wiring from an extra fusebox?

Surely if he gets a defender R380, the mainshaft will be ok. Wouldnt he only need to swap the mainshaft if he wanted to use the disco R380???

Bummer. Liked the shape of that console. Maybe try to lash one up myself when time permits.

Stumbled upon this pic on t'internet. Impressive looking roof console. Does anyone know who flogs it, or is it a homemade job?

A 'friend' of mine discovered that the industrial carbon filters at his work removed the dye from the red diesel they run there forklifts on. I would just like to say that not a drop of it has passed through my tdci mondeo over the last 8 years.......

Got the timing gear fitted alright in the end. The problem lay with the woodruff key, or more accurately the prat who hammered it into the crank as far as it would possibly go! That took a bit of removing i can assure you. Anyhow all seems well with it now. Thanks all for advice Phil

Plenty of 4.6's have been made from 3.9 blocks. FYI some 3.9 blocks are cross-bolted (though mine isnt). Cross-bolting isnt really necessary unless high revs are being planned. My engine has been built from a brand new 3.9 block, 4.6 crank/rods, 4.0 pistons, ARP hardware. Baring in mind that my engine wont be revving any higher than a normal RV8, the block is well up to it.

3.9 block / 4.6 crank / non-serp front cover. As above according to rimmer bros, v8 tuner, real steel etc all crank timing gears are the same size. Im confused Phil

Dont have the stuff that came off im afraid. Just been looking at P-38 Spares.co.uk and according to them all RV8 crankshaft timing sprockets are same size from 3.5 - 4.6 so dunno whats going on here...

Oh bugger!! I got it from V8 Tuner. Was told that it would fit all RV8 variants. GRRRRR!

Well it was certainly a blue Kent Cams box it came in. Even came with a Kent Cams dial gauge. Ok ok heres yer pics Barker

I'll get a pic up when I'm back home. Its a Kent Cams fully adjustable bling bling set.

Started to setup the cam timing on my engine today. Got No1 to TDC then started to fit the adjustable timing set. A few things concern me however. I always thought that the crank timing gear needed tapping onto the crank? Mine slid on all the way using just me fingers. Also, there seems to be quite a large gap between the keyway and the gear. Could someone have hammered the keyway too far into the recess in the crank or is it ok? I will post a pic later.

I already have the chassis harness in place. I also have a TD5 bulkhead harness and a megasquirt loom and ECU. Is there any more ECU's or harnesses needed to complete the wiring?

That is indeed very interesting Nige. I shall be keeping a close eye on ur website for availability. Phil

Ah now that looks interesting. Do you have any more details on it? Ive looked at his website but cant see anything about it.

Dont have facebook account. Cant stand farsebook, titter or all that malarkey.

Did you use a fabricated pipe in place of the AFM. Im going to MS as well. Gradually getting the parts needed...

What did you do regarding the AFM? Ive just noticed that they are £eeek!! Have you binned it like Nige did?

Thanks for those. Now all i need is to find part numbers. I only seem to be able to find part numbers for the carb'd v8's...