PaddyMac

I should have asked that myself ............. my link above is for Oil Temp. Discovery 200TDi you can use coolant temp sender PRC2505 Previous topic on here regarding Temp guages which may be usefull http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=49506

Hi the part no. PRC437 (fairly certain).. for temp sender unit A link I found with pics; http://smg.photobucket.com/user/western214h/library/oil%20pressure%20and%20temperature%20transmitter%20locations/#/user/western214h/library/oil%20pressure%20and%20temperature%20transmitter%20locations?sort=3&page=1&_suid=138434026422907972357903528158

Now, if only we could get new diff-oilseals and Waxoyl prescribed to us on the NHS... ( and heat for the shed ) A PERFECT WORLD

Hi Tac, Don't get me wrong I agree with what you just said. That is one one the reason's I bought the Defender. I was sick of losing money on depreciation. The last car I had before the defender was a lexus v6 and when I bought it I paid €13,000, a year and a half later it was worth €6,000 in the same garage???? Service cost's were higher €100 a spark plug and it needed 6 of them (ok they were long life ones but still) and don't even mention the annoying Engine Management light that kept coming on needing a computer to turn it off or tell you what was wrong. You felt obliged to wash it every week as even the smallest dirt made it look ****. Most people who enjoyed years ago, tinkering/servicing lament the loss of a simple engine & drivetrain. So huge thumbs up for the defender/series. I'm sorry really I didn't buy one years ago to be honest... What I do find mad is my inability to leave well enough alone. Having said that the defender is all the better for the upgraded brakes, HD suspension, drivetrain, seats, insulation & sound-proofing, the list goes on..lol ....... see what I mean

F***CK Mike you got it bad, I don't even think there's OEM pills for that

I am the proud owner of a TD5 Defender which I bought around this time last year. I was drawn to the Land Rover because of it's no nonsense utilitarian easy to work on package that you can drive anywhere you want. But what I bought was a second childhood/mid-life crisis. After many years of buying and modifying fords ( the early escorts etc) when I was 20 years younger and into rallying, all of a sudden I'm back looking through parts catalogs, searching the garage for my old toolbox and learning what Terrafirma means to your wallet. Speaking of which I'm broke...lol How much have you spent on yours since you bought it or what was the best bit you ever done to it?

Goodman, I would bring it to a local fabricator and get him to weld up a bracket that bolts to the front outriggers. I wouldn't weld it to the new galvanised chassis for fear of creating a potential rust spot and I think (could be wrong being in Ireland ) but if you weld it in place technically your changing the chassis and could fall in Q plate territory ? maybe check this but I would still bolt it anyway...good luck

Effectively, the MSA is governed by the FIA so if a roll cage design complies with FIA regs, then it is also eligible for MSA events). There are some instances where the FIA allow certain design features where the MSA do not (and vice versa) but you may get more info here; http://www.msauk.org/uploadedfiles/msa_forms/bluebooks/10/160-195%20Competitor%20Safety.pdf I thought the bottom was a plate that bolted to another bracketed plate underneath and this tied onto the chassis like this http://www.google.ie/imgres?hl=en&biw=1297&bih=641&tbm=isch&tbnid=glatQt-ThFt13M:&imgrefurl=http://www.safetydevices.com/motorsport/products/roll-cage/Land%2BRover%2BDefender%2B90%2B-1983-present/736/&docid=NVCDbQjaM_6MGM&itg=1&imgurl=http://www.safetydevices.com/i/rollcages/7366.1320332011.jpg&w=375&h=500&ei=7Sp5UpTcLa-R7Aa6roHAAQ&zoom=1&iact=rc&dur=296&page=2&tbnh=143&tbnw=104&start=24&ndsp=27&ved=1t:429,r:43,s:0,i:212&tx=71&ty=84 and http://www.google.ie/imgres?hl=en&biw=1297&bih=641&tbm=isch&tbnid=YQSJE77_tr7hVM:&imgrefurl=http://www.safetydevices.com/motorsport/products/roll-cage/Land%2BRover%2BDefender%2B90%2B-1983-present/736/&docid=NVCDbQjaM_6MGM&itg=1&imgurl=http://www.safetydevices.com/i/rollcages/7367.1320332011.jpg&w=375&h=500&ei=7Sp5UpTcLa-R7Aa6roHAAQ&zoom=1&iact=rc&dur=468&page=2&tbnh=159&tbnw=113&start=24&ndsp=27&ved=1t:429,r:45,s:0,i:218&tx=51&ty=83

Yep agree blue and white mine attaches off the colum switch behind the dash, don't for get to fuse the relay

Chicken Drumstick/Steve; I'm actually not sure myself if they are a standard lenght with longer springs ..I know when I was lowering cars the shocks remained the same and the spring was a little lower but a lot stiffer so the damper never bottomed out. For information my 110 does 70-90% on the road and to be honest there is nothing wrong with the ride etc just want to reduce the gap between the wheels and arch, lower centre of gravity back to what it was and take some of the pressure off propshafts /bushings for radius arm. I would be replacing with HD standard height springs as I perfer a slightly firmer ride...and yea your right Steve depending on which road your on some councils kindly turned them into dirt tracks for us to test our suspension....happy to pay my road tax,happy,happy,happy..lol

Hi all, I have a defender 110 td5 that the previous owner put a 2 inch Britpart HD Super Gaz lift kit into. It does not look like he put in a change of anything else because the bush on the radius arm to the chassis is slightly compressed and the caster correction arms or longer brake pipes are not changed as far as I can tell. However the kit was installed just before he sold it to me so has only about 15,000 miles on it (both shocks and springs). The question is I would like to return it to original height by just replacing the springs and leaving the shocks there as it seems a cheaper option. Would this be ok or would the longer shock cause me any adverse handling /fitting problems? Thanks again for all reply's in advance...

Hi, If you checked that the low level light on the dash is working by letting the fuel run low and watch the light come on (rather than the inital startup test to show it lights) then I would be under the impression that the sender has nothing wrong with it. I would test the elec block at the back of the fuel gauge with a multi-meter to see if it's getting power and if it is then persume the gauge itself is faulty.

Thanks guys for replys

Hi Guys, I have a 03 Defender 110 hardtop td5 with a seized rear caliper on one side and a scored disc on the other. The question is could I swap the front disc's and callipers to the back and just buy new ones for the front. I am going to have to get either end replaced with new parts and it just makes sence to upgrade the front while I have the chance. Has anyone done this are they a straight swap (parts being inter-changable)? Cheers in advance Paddy

I replaced the rear half shafts and flanges on the 110 couple of weeks ago after changing the front cv's, bearings etc. which cost me a small fortune...I was starting to think that if they go again I might weld them ..

"One Life Live it PENNILESS"

I wonder if the play in the drive has anything to do with the rear half shafts?

Not really, it monitors the engines metal temperature instead of coolant temperature, it should detect engine overheating caused by low coolant, engine coolant leaks, radiator blockages etc. which I think an ordinary Temp gauge will not. I like it too because it also has an alarm build in that is fairly loud and can be heard over the radio if the temp goes beyond a certain point, which you can set. To be honest it gives me extra piece of mind. It was only €50 as far as I can remember and easy fitted so why not….

Hi Guys I just wanted to share some things I found out while making changes to my own TD5 Defender so it will give others something to think about. EGR blanking Kit; Seems to be a little quicker after passing mid rev's but didn't notice anything low down, not sure about how it will affect exhaust emmissions but a cheap mod and easy diy. Gaz Suspension 2inch lift kit. I liked this mod only because the ride feels an awful lot better than the origional setup, The centre of gravity being raised a little does not seem to have put out handling going around roundabouts it is a little harsh on some road surfaces (potholes)but that is without a load Bucket Seats. One of the best mods I did for pleasure of driving. Much more comfortable over standard seats as I drive the landy to work every day and use as my only transport. Drawbacks are it's harder to get in and out of the landy and you have to lose the ability of easy access to the battery under the passenger seat, which I resolved with a anderson plug. Hindsight get comfortable seats but without the high sides on them comfort, easy to get in and out but still have to do anderson plug. Racing Harness used with internal roll bar Do not fit these unless you have a roll bar. If you just try to fit using a harness bar and you turn over the roof will comedown and you will be unable to lower yourself in the seat unlike an inerita belt replacing the pillars with your head also you cannot look out the side windows, reach the ashtry or reach the handbrake while your strapped in. Digital Engine Monitor. Great piece of kit attached to the block high up near the head and it sits there telling me what temp the engine is getting to uphill, underload etc. etc I bought mine off a guy from America does the same job as the more well known brands but half the price. Anyway as I said just some of my thoughs on changes I made

Replacment turbo sounds about right but I'd also remove the EGR

Hi you can tig weld Aluminum but it is a difficult material to weld because of the fact that it is so malleable and as a result welding will cause it to bend, warp or for the weld simply not to hold, so my advice would be to bring it to a professional rather than attempt as a diy

Cheers guys for the response's and great idea about the magnet never thought of that...

I was wondering if anyone knew wheather the roof edge/gutter lip on a 2003 defender td5 is made of aluminium. Someone had suggested to me that it was steel painted white but when I striped the paint off it I think it may be aluminium the same as the roof....anyone know for sure? Thanks in advance for any help info

Hmm, I would look at the wires on the back of the ignition and see if anything has being added to the positive feed and if there is then trace it back if you can to see what it's paired to maybe you might spot a block connecter or similar....

Hi Guys I have a feeling that the defender td5 steering wheel 48 splines is the same as a bmw e36 which would make steering wheels and boss kits inter-changable has anyone any thoughts or knowledge on the matter?