kingrat

anyone selling them in the UK at all. Sounds like a must have for the pence against the shock of a new regulator

The wheel nut indicators are cheap tho. Pitty he can't be bothered to put the wheel nut size on them tho http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Wheel-Nut-Indicator-CPD0G32-/330425628450?cmd=ViewItem&pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CommercialVehicleParts_SM&hash=item4ceee6f722

apparently thats the problem with running a TD5 on veg, the injectors only last 10k of constant use with veg oil. Although thats hear say as there seems to be a distinct lack of info on TD5's and veg oil, despite the engine apparently being developed to run on any old carp. the story goes the US military ran it on a mix of hydraulic oil and kerosene.

I agree with HFH. The Ashcroft ones are well worth the money.

Sorry to bug people, but any more thoughts? Does the Nanocom reach the AS10 via the ECU or connect directly? Does it sound possible that the ECU is faulty but still running the engine ok? I'm really desperate now. I've emailed Nanocom with what I've done so far in the hope they might have a magic answer. I just do not know what to do now, other than pin out to confirm if the unit is faulty.

Has the rotary oil filter been changed?. Mine had a very worrying clatter when just stopped followed by a whirring sound. After changing the rotary filter this has now settled down to just a slight whine. I think some td5's have a live of this filter being overlooked. just a thought

If there is no play on the sliding joint and its not siezed, I would just do the U/J's. Pence to buy in the scheme of things and take less than 30mins per joint. Probably more like 30 mins per prop shaft.

Mo, here you go m8 and finally

Tiger Seal gets my vote too. Just don't get it on your hands, it loves moisture and will cure in water. Although looking at how this summer is going thats also a very handy trait

will get off my bum and do so tonight m8

Mo, I've got mine on a 8mm spreader plate and have towed over the max for a Sankey without any problems. Reversing has not distorted the crossmember, but I do wonder about the fact that the hitch has no through the crossmember support.

oops. Yes engine tried running makes no difference, or in position II, and yes I'm running version 2.05 and have even tried re flashing the unit to cover off image corruption. Appreciate the pointers and answer cos I'm getting mega greif from SWMBO as I've had it since January and this is the furthest I've got. Cheers

Sean, yes I've run new earth's cleaned the existing and follwoed Nanocom's advice all the way previously. The thing is that until doing this cable extension, I could not even talk to the AS10. What I do not understand yet is why I now can talk to the alarm and change things successfully, yet I still cannot talk to the ECU. I will try a 10M flylead next and see what happens, however I expect that I would get to the alarm via the ECU so I must be heading in the right direction. On the other hand the pins could be seperate and I have a cable issue which will need to be tracked down. When I looked at the earths with the meter I have never been able to see a potential difference to earth. Maybe its just yet another 'quirk' of this latest shed.

Think you might have hit the nail on the head there Mo.

I've finally managed to get my nanocom to work by extending the cable with a 1.75m cat5 patchlead. Unfortunately I can only read and write to the alarm ecu, not the engine one. I still get the communication error. I think it now works because the patch lead is loading the line (used to use 30m coils of coax to load marine ccts if we ran out of load impedances) Do I have a problem with wiring (doubt it if I can talk to the 10AS) or would more loading get it to work with the main ecu?

yep absolutely perfect. They only melt when someone burns your truck too. Think they sell on ebay as airshot pellet. I bought a bag of 5000 6mm pellets which was more than enough to do 4 235x85R16. Recon I have enough left to do another 4 tyres.

this site gives the wieght for a given tyre size: http://www.innovativebalancing.com/BigTirechart.htm

I did this on my old 90. Used bb gun shot. Simply weighed the correct amount out and lcal tyre fitter added em for free cos he could now do large 4x4 tyre balancing.

I bet that is where Bolt on Bits are getting em from, and adding a markup

Well it took me 3hrs to get the steel sheet blanking plates out. They had been pressed in before the door was skinned and the welded into the frame. 3mm thick steel plate, Ralph was right. Windows fitted to one side only as I found that the doors are late (as to be expected) but the regulators I hade recovered from some scrap doors are early. I think I need CVH500080 and CVH500090, but it seems odd that the 2nd row doors use the same regulator as the front. Word of caution to all. A universal electic window kit only works if you have a splined regulator fitted (still I now have electrikey front windows) Any thoughts on if these regulators will work in 2nd row doors?

Well it took me 3hrs to get the steel sheet blanking plates out. They had been pressed in before the door was skinned and the welded into the frame. 3mm thick steel plate, Ralph was right. Windows fitted to one side only as I found that the doors are late (as to be expected) but the regulators I hade recovered from some scrap doors are early. I think I need CVH500080 and CVH500090, but it seems odd that the 2nd row doors use the same regulator as the front. Word of caution to all. A universal electic window kit only works if you have a splined regulator fitted (still I now have electrikey front windows)

yes I have not had any issues with either the swivel ball kit or the swivel repair kits

Rocky, I've fitted these in the past and had no issues.

Don't knock Halfords too much they had it on offer pre mixed last year on a 3-4-2 that made it £34 for 15 litres which is not that bad for OAT

you need this one: http://www.paddockspares.com/pp/DEFENDER/Body_and_Panels/Rear_safari_door_-_glazed_-_from_AA242000_to_1A622423.html