kingrat

I painted my old 90 in blue smoothrite with minimal preperation (quick clean down with wet n dry). Adhesion was very good, and stayed looking like fresh paint for 3 years till it got burned out which made it look flakey and black.

its now held in place with some sprung steel press clips. These are located by sliding a screwdriver about an inch in and moving it around the side and bottom of the door frame, when you reach one just lift the screwdriver and they pop out with no damage.

yep thats the one. Still using most of my screwdrivers and I left BT in 1990. Just shows how well the were built. My Dad still has some of his GPO tools in use. Always found heating lead in it made an awful smell for some reason, so never heated water with it.

what about pots p***ing No2?

Welcome. Depending on aility to use a large hammer for hours the A fram ball joint can be done without a press, but its hard work. The way I do it is to drive a gap between tha ball joint mount and balljoint until I can get my largestv chisel through the gap, the cut the tabs off. I then rest the ball joint mount on top of a vice so that I can drive the rest of the ball jount out. Once out I die grind the splines out of the mount to help make it easier to get the new joint in. To fit the new joint, line up with the mount and use the clamping bolts to ease it into the mount. Once lined up and started into the mount I place a 52mm socket over the ball joint and beat it like hell. Last one took half a day. It just depends on how far you want to go with doing it yourself. If I had someone close by with a press I could beg the use of I would definitely use it. Cheers Paul

Would that mean that standard shocks and lowered mounts would take up the 2 inch lift ok in that case?

I think its more recently the 110 moved away from the Salisbury axle. My 2000 110 is Salibury and was built that way.

Last big brake fluid flush I did I used 1litre of DOT4. Probably only used DOT4 from memory as thats all the local factor had in for some reason Cheers Paul

Lift pump?

r u on about the caliper bracket? if so its FTC3306

Ralph, Please let me know the part number of your bumper. I've got to get one. Thats a proper piece of kit mate.

It sort of sounds like you had a visit last night to relieve you of your wheels, but they were disturbed.

My 2penneth would be to use the Difflock oil for the R380. I am very happy with the results, its improved my gearbox no end.

Jake,if there is not a problem with the axle, buy vented calipers and vented disks its easier and cheaper.

Its a bit of an art. I usually usea 3/8" socket extension and press it all home with a jack, remembering to put the circlip over the extension before jacking. The position of the applied force can be critical to success. Good Luck and watch your fingers.

the ebay bulbs I have bought have all lasted at least 2 years and have come from Chine at about £3 per pair delivered. I also use DealExtreme quite a lot and find the delivery just as good as ebay item. Both use paypal if you want to keep your card details private. Thing to remember is with LED its better to use an LED the same colour as the lense the bulb will be used in else the light will shine too white for Police checks and MOT. Well that is my understanding anyway. I will use LED lights on any Land Rover I buy as they are less prone to the weak light syndrome caused by floating earth issues.

It might help to update your profile with your rough location at the very least. There are plenty of very friendly and helpful people on here with access to diagnostic equipment. From what you describe it does sound like you need to beg a good battery to try. Remember this is the time of your that a weak lead acid battery will start to have the water seperate out and freeze causing lack of available starting power or none at all. Just my 2 penneth

I'm currently very happy with this: http://www.frost.co.uk/item_Detail.asp?productID=8293&frostProductName=Granville%20Rust%20Converter%20(250ml)&catID=28&frostCat=Rust&frostSubCat=Others&subCatID=34 where I've applied it the rust is definitely converted, even after the recent weather I see not rust runs anymore

Have a look at Difflock. They do a portable (hand) welder

Well I checked the voltages at the ODB port and got the following (both with and without the ignition on): Pin Voltage 4 0 5 0 7 0 8 12 16 12 Also tested the Nanocom ODB port which corresponded to the readings Nanocom suggest.

Also very few companies store that sort of detail on a seperate server. If you are serious about internet facing security you will be using a minimum of dual layer security at the firewall and server level. Thats means external and internal firewalls and same with servers, this means that only the web server faces the internet and the transactional layer is seperated by the internal firwall to a transactional server. Hope that makes sense Paul

latest version of software is on as its the new USB unit. Have been considering reloading the firmware if nothing I try over the weekend works. Cheers Paul

Yep all access codes are entered. I'll get the meter out and see what I'm getting on what wires. I honestly suspect that I still have an earthing issue but until I get off my ar** and look with a meter I'm just blowing in the wind.

Porny, tried engine on and off. Same result in both cases. Nanocom LED flashes and says connecting, then the error. I'm back in Sheffield at the weekend so can start to break the wires out to see what I have where. K88MUD, Thanks. I may end up needing that offer if I cannot figure this out. I must admit I do feel its going to be a lack of voltage at some point as the diag socket was hidden under rather a lot of gearbox oil and may need more TLC than its been given to date. Cheers Paul

Yes Ralph same goes for me I have a Snap-on easy out splined thing stuck in whats left of a manifold bolt I'm luckily waiting for warmer weather to sort out. You give so much time and effort to the rest of us I wish I also could be of more help. Just remember that the fridge is always full when you have done. It helps a lot. Paul