o_teunico

It´s incredible what a change can make a single letter... "Big Vince" will certainly be the perfect man for having a "chat" with those bikers

I will prefer cool bending, but I dont have any press. Instead I have access to a forge and big vince.

Lewis, how did you cooled them after bending? Water inmersion or just leaving them to slowly cool themselves?

Not much movement in this thread... This is what Jeremy Clarkson said about the E300DT back in 1997 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hBMuup7QSZI

Will be great seeing pictures of current setup for comparing them with the one link, once made.

With a looooooooooong gearbox combo (longer front prop) and a drop box for the rear that will not be a problem. I could even lift engine and box a few inches, as seen in WildFing, for extra ground clearance.

Mmmmm...interesting. Will search info about them. What I want is some radious arms that will correct castor for 10cm lift and also be located UNDER chassis rails for slightly better turning circle.

I would like to bend them in both ways. Thanks for the info.

Any idea of how much tonnes are needed for bending them?

Hi all! Some time ago Bill said that old Rangie radious arms were easy/safe to bent without heating. What about newer (thick) type? If heated, should they be cooled in water (quenching) or it will be better to let them cooling slowly? Can the material be easily welded?

New unit arrived. It´s already mounted in the vehicle. As you see, it´s phased (UJ at both ends in same position). Will pass some info in a few weeks about it´s performance.

Spanish company ILERTECA developed in the 90s an overdrive that was located between engine and box. It was used succesfully in Discoveries in competitions ( Morroco). In 2000 they asked for a patent. http://www.oepm.es/pdf/ES/0000/000/02/14/96/ES-2149679_A1.pdf

Interesting thread! Back in 1999 I was a 19 y.o. teenager with my first landy (a Santana made SIII88"). I read as much as I could about LRs and mechanics. If a glue´s label said "wait for 5 minutes" I would took my watch and wait exactly for 5 minutes... ...so friends started calling me "the technician" (in galician: o téCnico). One day, a friend took a DYMO label maker and sticked a label to a switch panel on the 88. By a mistake he wrote "teUnico" instead of the correct "teCnico". Then, after a bet, I made a "O TEUNICO" decall (out of red insulating tape) for the back of the landy, becaming officially since then the "Téunico". The switch panel, wich I still have... .

No Bill, that bridge is still there, but axle winching is legal and will enable me to pass below it. What are the performance changes provoqued by lowering/lifting the roll centre?

...vapour solution, of course What does the LR4x4 comunity think about this idea? An extra front chassis leg welded below the original one. This extra leg will lower both the panhard and steering box mounts, maintaining pahard and steering bar in factory angles after the lift. Some trimming will be needed if we want to maintain aproach angle.

Is not that 4 link what Nissan uses in the rear of Y60/61?

I think that you are refering to RIBAS. I once had the handbook of one of those in my hands. It clearly said "can be used in any gear at any speed" and it aimed driver to use it as a splitter. Never heard about TORO ("BULL" in spanish). The Santana parts catalogue shows both Fairey and Santana units. Quite surprisingly, the complete unit´s reference is the same for both: GLR120A. Will post a scanned exploded view of the Santana unit.

you are a genius Bill!

Well, next time I will certainly using any other repairing method! Will try those plugs...

Back in 2004 i had the opportunity to visit the Santana factory in Linares. They where assembling the MoD vehicles at the time (sorry, no pictures where allowed inside facilities). Early models used LT85, later ones ZF six speeds (as in Iveco Daily). When it was sold as Iveco Massif, local IVECO garaje was unable to obtain spares. Body was constructed in steel (not aluminium) and they had cleverly reworked the Defender/Series V body to give better leg room for rear passengers and wider rear door. Need parts? Try ESTANFI http://www.estanfi.com/esp/index.php. They are part of the BRITPART group, and approved "Land-Rover Santana" and "Santana Motor" continuity parts suplier (suposedly they took over all parts from Santana for both old series and Aníbal/PS10).

Some years ago I successfully repaired a small puncture with one of those foam sprays in my daily driver, a Fiat Tipo. Yesterday I went to the tyre shop to get two new tyres (have a MoT test next saturday). When collecting the car... Mechanic: WTF have you done on that wheel? O´Téunico: Errrr... M:Have you used one of those puncture repair cans? OT:Yes, why? M:Well, that product has been "eating" the aluminium of the wheel. Let´s hope it can contain the air without leaking. I have used plenty of tyre grease...but cannot guarantee it will work. OT: Ooooops! So, avoid those magic cans if you don´t whant to be forced to buy new wheels!

I think that Rover Montego used them too. Are those icons a James Bond edition?

Measured it today: 94 cm. A cranked upper link (made out of an old radious arm) could be fitted from diff to gearbox crossmember, but I don´t see any other place suitable without fouling engine or box. Space will be tight, as engine mount, oil filter and clutch slave cylinder. Another option: fit 3rd (centered) link facing forward.