Peter

Have a 86 CSW too. What other modifications have you made recently in the vicinity of the rear left indicator. I put a new reversing light in the other week, but did not check the rest of the wiring that links the its earth - i.e. indicators. Have had to put in a new indicator replay in behind fuse box today as was getting no response from any indicator at all, now I get the fast click - bulb out sound, and indeed both rear indicators are out. So assume as its pretty simple wiring its gotta be a bad earth somewhere. Also recently changed the starter motor, and removed some obscure wiring/relay to it via the battery box continuing out to the back rear crossmeber, so the earth could have been linked to this by some numpty with less electrical circuit knowledge than 'basic' in the past. (Probably the sort of thing I would do. lol)

Super duper - will see if can find another hazard switch - perhaps from a known good vehicle

Got an early Ninety - looks just like the 1990 Britain model BTW. Anyway, have recently changed the reversing light, and starter motor. Then was left idle for 3 weeks. Went to move it yesterday, when used the indicators it flashed once then stopped. Hazards also do not work. Got another flasher relay, put this in place of the expensive looking orignal LUCAS unit, tried the hazards and had one click from relay - but no lights, and does not work still. But stumped as vehicle electrics might as well be in Arabic for all I understand about them. Anyone had this happen to them and found the solution (need vehicle soon) so need a resolution. Cheers Peter

I assume you have'nt adjusted the tappets every 6,000 miles ? Also clean out intercooler and change air filter - could be choking engine too much. 200TDI are f**ing noisy. Both in my '89 D1 and '85 90 much more than in my 300tdi 90. Change the lift pump and fuel filter.BTW have you been running veg oil in the past ?

Got a 1985 CSW - Need to know how to change the door lock barrels. Basically these are totally different to the later type. Does anyone have an early LR repair manual that actually states how to dismantle them.

Hello all, Below is a copy of a email replay to an advert on Mugtree for a LR advertised for far less than list price. The advert also said it had originated from Autotrader. Whilst the ad looked good it was at least £7000 less than anyone else selling one similar. Gmail chucked this guys 1st email with loads more photo's of the vehicle into spam box - so probably knew more than me about these email accounts they use. Hi again, As you can see, I am selling it at a low price but it has nothing to do with the it's condition. I've lowered the price because I'm in desperate need of cash and I am looking for a fast sale. Everything is in perfect working condition, all documents are in order, full service history, 5 months of mot and tax. I have to tell you that I'm currently out of town so viewing isn't an option. I will get somebody to bring it to you if you decide to buy it but we have to close the deal through Google Checkout. If you are not aware of this program you should know that it will allow you to drive and inspect it before paying me. You will have a 5-day inspection period to decide whether you want to keep it or not before they release the funds to me. In this time you can even run an RAC or AA inspection. I will receive the payment from Google only if you are satisfied with the vehicle. If by any reason (it has any hidden damage or it isn't as i describe it) you can reject the deal. In this case Google Checkout will fully refund you and I will come and collect it on MY cost. You can read more here: http ://step-by-step-google-checkout .com If you want it, let me know your your name and address where it must be delivered so i can register the sale with Google and proceed. If you will decide to not go through is not a problem I still quite have a few more offers from potential buyer. I checked the registration number via the DVLA vehicle checker website and came back with unknown vehicle. So have assumed its a scam - unless someone knows differently or had success buying a LR this way ?

Alarms immobilizers trackers. Only my 2p worth but my fathers 90 was stolen a few years back. Since then he has Tracker fitted. Be aware of what device you use though. Contact your insurance and ask them what devices the approve. Some will only cover a total loss if you have used a Thatcham device - does depend on vehicles value of course. Pointless putting a £1000 device on a £50 vehicle for instance. NFU Do not yet approve some devices that use tracking technology - although the company selling it may lie to get a sale. Best to check with insurer than retailer also worth asking Police for devices they actually use and also approve. Anyway only my opinion. One of my mates got his 110 nicked the way yours nearly was, and then written off (by the company recoverying it) he now uses a Thatcham approved full cover steering lock on his new one.

Been thinking about trading up to a new Defender. However was under the impression the VED (car tax) was going to be in the £400+ mark. According to various websites it states that the VED is now £200 on Defenders. Have I missed something. i.e. news story about this ? I find the new rates really confusing.

I thought I'd share this tip with others - see photo's below. If you shave the highest point off the fan, it makes fitting much easier IMHO.

Currently thinking of taking fan out, and using a Bilge pump (see ruu's post) connected to the resistor, as reckon it will control the speed. Be interesting to see if it works as would save a lot of dosh. Apparently the amp draw is 2.7amps, way below the 10amp the Defender fan draws on full speed.

Thanks for the replies. I have taken the wires from the heater fuse, and put a blade fuse holder in line, with a 10amp fuse. Made it long enough so can change it without having to take the fuse cover off, and the CB I have mounted in front. Anyway, the wires and fuse holder do get warm when on speed 2. But is okay on Speed 1. So assume there is resistance in the circuit. It would make sense that it is the fan unit itself. Will dismantle this tomorrow and see if it is possible to turn by hand. I take it, its a sealed bearing and cannot be oiled/greased ?

Too right not many C ax's left. So should be easy to find. imho (only 7 on ebay !!)

2nd question. Does the fuse just blow the fan or does it control the Rheaostat too ? I.e. if I Do Ruu's conversion will it negate the need for the above issue ?

As the header states. I have an early Defender Ninety. With the old 27mm glass fuses (Halfords only sell 30mmk glass fuses). The heater has had issues in the past blowing fuses - about 3 years ago. Got round it by cleaning up the fuse holder. Now after a day at Mud Monsters off-roading (Soft off roading) It has started again to blow the 10amp heater fuse. 4TH one down on the left column of bank of fuses. The actual plastic has melted, but cleaned up the terminals and all was well for about 2 miles then it blew again. Change the fuse and blew immediately - bit of a light show at night - orange glow, glow some more - blue light - then no heater fan. Great. At least its warming up a bit, but need heater to clear screen of damp interior (I'm a gardener). I have ordered a set (2x8) of rear connecting blade fuse holers from Demon Tweaks as per http://www.offroading.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=43&t=3288 this excellent link. I only have 2 banks of 6 fuses, but reckon the 4 spare will get used up. In the meantime - going to test the fuse holder, by taking the wires out of line, and putting into a single blade holder I will take off my Disco 200tdi breaker, to see if it the fuse holder that is the fault. (The above cure is long overdue - and no work at mo seems good time to do it). If this is not the problem it could be the earth - however the Haynes manual is a bit vague (tch) as usual in their wiring circuit to where the earth on the heater ciruit actually is - does any one know ?

I used a cheap camping mat, as does not rot or hold water. Also great between the rad and intercooler. Am going to do this mod as soon as can work out why the heater fuse keeps blowing - got a box of old style 10amp fuses, but 6 seconds til burnout is a bit greedy. Will start a post on this in defender section.

Mocha, We once got 3 day routes off of Breckland LRC a few years back before the CROW act kicked in. Spoke to them at LRO show in Peterborough this year about current problems and TRO's. Can I suggest you speak to them, probably the ROW officer. http://www.brecklandlrc.com/index.html

Ruuman, I really like your supercharging the heater intake idea. I will probably put an inline switch on the Bilge fan connection, to give me a 4 speed heater - just like in a car. With the ability to turn it off it needs be. Gotta just find an appropriate labelled button/switch.

Anyone used this yet ? www.trailzilla.com uses memory map and Goolge maps to share routes.

X-twistoff lol

Hey would look really cool if the but end looked just like an unused shotgun cartridge - would make one damn well keep clear would'nt it just in case !! You know he will call it X-cap (unfired)

Sorry to hear about your loss. My mate got his 110 nicked off his driveway a few years back by the local caravan dwellers. Since then we all take extra care, and use either clutch pedal locks or those steering locks that fit fully over the steering wheel that Halfords sell and are thatcham approved. One of the breaker traders at Billing told us a large number of LR's were found when his was found in the same raid earlier this year - when the Tracker device was located by the Police. Hope someone sees the reg plate, and its found soon. Bit confused by the title was it actually stolen at the Billing show?

i might be up for this - thinking of selling my Brownchurch roof tent and that protoype x-anchor mount that is perfect when fitted on an 8274 (serious money for this comp spec mount - shave at least 5 seconds of removal and refitting of ground anchor to vehicle - if I can find it) - but depends if can get it all together the day before - as planning a beer and bonfire session the night before.

I had a fan belt split lenthways not too long ago. Part of the belt seemed to pick up some oily paper towel from somewhere and it exploded all over the engine, thought at first it was a bird gone in though the rad. Since then after replacing the belt have been having a hell of a noise from the front of the engine - sounds like an unlubricated bearing noise. Am not convinced its the tensioner (yet to replace). But did find I had to remove bits of paper towel stripes from front vent holes of alternator. On advice took the belt off and gave all the pulleys a shake. Found the one on the timing belt cover to be - what I thought to be loose. A few hundred quid later and trip to garage had the cover and pulley replaced. Noise still exists. The reason I did not think it was the tensioner is its not constant. But seems to get worse/louder as the revs increase - am not prepared to play the game or pay the price of replacing every moving part on the engine. So wonder if anyone can say from the above what the probable cause of this noise is. Have a 100amp Alternator BTW, and relatively new turbo (and is not turbo whistle or lacking power). New fan belt has not made any difference. And after having timing cover replaced noise was still evident but only on acceleration. Kinda buzzing metallic scraping noise very very loud at 56mph and get worse as speed increases. So need to know if you all reckon its alternator or tensioner - as is related to engine speed and power of engine. oh and my Heater 10amp fuses keep blowing - not sure if related as cannot remember when that started to happen. Thanks in advance.

Thanks CIPX, Much appreciated. The other info was to do with the procedure in the Haynes manual. So sorry for confusion, assumed everyone has a copy in front of them - which of course they don't. Shall invest in a workshop manual as soon as I can, as looks like Haynes has compacted their manual missing out this vital diagram. Have also emailed mechanic with your comments. Cheers Peter

Yes they are both 200tdi's one a J reg - scrap. The other an early G-reg (sub 500 on engine block) with incredibly low mileage worth saving or using for 5 years at least. You can sometimes break a metal to metal seal with a large hammer - need I explain further ? There is a tool by bushwhacker that is used to undo a steering wheel on a LR by fixing with 2 bolts, and levering off squarly with a centre 13mm bolt that pushes down on the steering column. Look at 7th photo in this link: http://shop.dingocroft.co.uk/acatalog/Bushwacka_Tools.html Used to realign or safely remove a steering wheel. Now can someone out there answer the original question ?