Peter

Okay, I have a scrap'er that I can practice on 1st, before tackling my vehicle. Had an over eager mechanic re-align my steering wheel - he did not have a bushwhacker tool But used a big hammer and a metal bar to hit downwards on the steering column. Upshot is the steering column may have been damaged as it sits about 2mm closer to the shroud and catches as I steer. Having read elsewhere this may have damaged the steering as they are designed to collapse in an accident. Have the Haynes manual, but it is a bit vague about removing the steering column to inspect it. Anyone actually removed one ? And after the bottom UJ is removed and clear, and steering wheel removed and shroud and stripped down to the steering column sheaf - now what ? I can see a distant circlip looking in the column sheaf, and think there is a distant nut from the other end in engine bay - not sure how to get onto it though as appears to be odd shape - BTW the J-reg steering scrap'per bottom linkage to PAS box is different design - will the column components be any different ?

BTW Did you check the Brake fluid level, at that will make the low fluid sensor switch the lights on.

Cool 7 teams from Twinaxle club, one of them is bound to win Some side betting going on I expect - if only for the 1st round at the next meeting.

Tony, So what your saying is its possible to fit a bleed nipple, say taken from one of the rear brake calipers. Undo the rear pipe from the front pressure regulating valve (mine only has one pipe from front to back, which seems odd as there are two to the front brakes - unless LR knew Front brakes were more important than rears in 1985, downhill braking I suppose) and plug it with the bleed nipple. BTW anyone know how to remove the brake pipe from the clips along the chassis - as mine are 24 years original I think, and covered in Dinitrol. Else will use old pipe as carrier for new with cable ties - if get to DIY it properly. Got a Haynes Brake manual so will look at that in morning, as realy ought to start fixing the LR myself, as no longer getting paid for 8 hours a day in front of a PC twiddling me fingers for work.

Can't believe its the same 3 people on this forum again. Wow you've got some high numbers on your posts..Anyway thanks for the advice FF, this was kinda suggested earlier by a mechanic. And would make sense, assuming I can get the correct fitments, as its only about 7" from the rear flexy pipe, and would be a hell of alot eaiser than routing a new pipe through to the front junction box so long as the rest of the pipe work will take a flaring session. No I am not going to take to the open road - and has not been since I found this problem this afternoon. LR is in my garage just looking at the options in case it happens in Africa. Would rather not go laning than take a known unsafe vehicle on the road, not worth the risk. BTW Night Train your picute looks like my old S2a. Gigglepin said they would make me up a pipe if I needed it.

The red brake warning light has been on for about a week now, kinda ignored it (ignorance on my part - as its due to low level of brake fluid, not a sticking sensor - der). And the brakes seemed to be working fine, towing a heavy trailer on a number of occasions. I get your gist though.

If for instance you were out in the wilds of Africa, what would people suggest to do if you discovered a split/crack in a Land Rover brake pipe ? Would something like JB Weld work, and how would you prevent it blocking the flow of brake fluid along the pipe ? Okay hands up, can't get my brake pipe fixed before a laning trip and need to bodge it, just wondered if the above would work. Cheers Pete

Been asked by Surrey LRC to post this a bit wider as someone must have seen this truck: Land rover soft top with eagle wheel cover seen ? http://cms.met.police.uk/news/appeals/e_fit_released_in_connection_with_allegation_of_rape

East London - you have Brownchurch in Leyton http://www.brownchurch.co.uk/preparation.html Quadratech -Pat and John. lovely folk - honest, experienced -full workshop facilities. reasonable Should have some time since often quieter after Xmas tel 0208 671 8100, based between Streatham and Brixton South of London out near M25 AJS http://www.ajstyres.co.uk/ South east of London - Dakar4x4 http://www.dakar.co.uk/ Outer M25 south east near Sevenoaks Gigglepin4x4.net

Advice needed: Got a club member whose Disco decided to drop its entire oil from its engine on the motorway (M25). It had just been for a full service. 2 days and 60 miles after the service. Anyway the garage reckon its the Turbo return oil pipe - even at full temperature and doing 70mph, how much oil would come out if that split ?

Rob, Have a look at Viewranger (google it) OS maps are more upto date than Memory Maps BTW.

Sorry dude, only just seen this topic. Yeah know the lane well, thought it had been closed ages ago. Hope if they do close it, it will apply to the residents too ? Anyway like said bit late to the complaints dept. But did you speak to Kent Glass rep. Phil Matthews or West Kent ROW officer for AWDC Richard Dickenson ? As they there GLASS group do tend to get stuff done and know how to tale legal action against false claims. We ususaly get emailed by them of local issues, but had not heard about this one. A similar lane was closed for that same reason on Pilgrims way. There are other ways such as putting security locks on gates to the lane - this is working well on 2 other byways in Kent, and completely stopped the illegal stuff. Cheers Peter Kent LRC

Ebay item number: 360185499631 looks like Huddersfield LR centre have decided to sell pre-production velar number 7. Wonder what they will put on their advert now ? ex home of velar perhaps. Hope it continues to survive. Cheers Peter

Ebay item number: 360185499631 looks like Huddersfield LR centre have decided to sell pre-production velar number 7. Wonder what they will put on their advert now ? Hope no ones buys it to bobtail. Cheers Peter

BM maybe, but the serial number of the engine on the 40xx80 is also in the sub 500 i.e. pre 12L00500A The other later one engine is up in the 12L10500A range, so agree that one which is for comparison is up in the 10,000th vehicle range. Still a G-reg but ordered after the 5% price increase LR put on the Disco in that model year. Unless of course the 2nd 4 in the serial number is also a code, the would put the 2nd one only a few hundred nearer the other. I suppose the only answer is to get more serial numbers from owners of early models or contact Gaydon. Wonder if there is anyone on here who could post this question on DOC forum - there's goto be someone on there who would know at least. In the back before the index of : "Land Rover the unbeatable 4x4" 3rd edition had the production figures for each year. Anyone got a later edition with the 1989/90 production run for the Disco1 - kinda remember there was a lot of them. Just found the production figures here: http://www.lrfaq.org/FAQ.3.LR_production.html See table at bottom of that webpage. So can't be +40,000 between them. Cheers Peter

PB The motor show was the one where they had the cut in half sideways Disco - the guard said I was not allowed to touch - hey am still a rebel ;-) Yeah I know, 44**70 that was the later one (that is a mint one too BTW), one I've been looking at is the 40**80 one, cheers for your reply. I suppose if the USA and Belgium 25 year rule carries on I will have to wait another 6 years before its legal to export to those countries (assuming laws don't change - which they might). Peter

Thansk Karlo SAL Manufacturer code: Land Rover LJ Model: Discovery, 200 Series (1989-1994) or 300 Series (1994-1998) G Wheel base: 100 inch B Body type: 2-door station wagon, or hard top F Engine type: 2.5 litre Tdi diesel, model 11L (200Tdi) or model 16L (300Tdi) 7 Steering and transmission: Right-hand drive (RHD), 5-speed manual (LT85, LT77, LT77S, R380 or other) G Model year: 1990 A Assembly location: Solihull, UK The above is the bit that's known, and the last 6 digits is the serial number. But there certainly doubt there were as many as 450,000 made in the first few months. By a process of elimination I know of another early Disco that had its VIN serial number that was: 44**70 This ones VIN is 40**80 Which by process of elimination might mean the 1st number 4 is ? a code. The next 4 digits is the chassis number production so 001 was first and 999 last of the 2nd to last 1000 made i.e 4000010 being the first. Just need someone with a GWAC or another early demo model to give roughly their last 4 VIN numbers, if I am actually in the right 'ball park' with this estimation. Incidently it was 1st reg Nov'89 so assume year letter is for the G-reg year from 1st September'89 to 31st August '90 hence model year know as G. And from the vehicle reg locator (http://www.wolfbane.com/vreg.htm) which uses the last 2 digits of the number plate to show its location (upto 2001) that it came from the LR dealer location the owner said it was from. Whilst I could easily contact Gaydon, think it more fun and interesting to do some leg work myself. Of course the final question I have to ask all you Discovery owners is (having never even driven one myself yet - but did attend Motor show of '89 just to see it). Do you think its worth buying this vehicle, and if it is one of the 1st 500 off the production line have any value to collectors ? Its too good to just become another rotting wreck, i.e has no rust yet, and interior is like new, no sagging seats or lifting trim. Cheers Peter

I've come across an interestingly good condition early Discovery, with what can only be said has an unusually low mileage, and one owner from new (ex demo) FSH. Hey and the seats have not sagged yet. The present owner thinks its one of the 1st 500 off the production line. Does anyone know the numbers on the VIN of the 1st off the production line (assume it would be a GWAC) and would give an indication of where LR started with the vin numbers. Also do we take it the earliest 200tdi engine was numbered as 12L00001A this might give a better indicator to its true lineage. However it might not depends how LR did the assigning of engines. I know what the SALLJGBF7F stands for on the VIN - Europe Disco1 3dr 200tdi RHD 1989. And guess the GA stands for Gaydon, and then I have a 6 digit number. I know of another slightly later model, that was not a 1st garage demo vehicle which after the GA is something like: SALLJGBF7GA448880 Could someone confirm what the earliest VIN number of the production Disco's was. BTW have spoken to Dunsfold, and they suggest I cough up 35 notes to get details from Gaydon. Hmm. Cheers Peter

About 6 grand, Bet it goes to the collector in Northern Scotland who bought our similar mileage and condition P-reg 3-dr

Also helps if runing it on something like Samsung i8910hd mobile with a Brodit Land Rover Defender mount (its top)

Yes I bet its the belt tensioner too. Only costs about £4 for a new bearing. Relatively easy DIY on a 300tdi (I think there is a techy doc on it on here somewhere) - Just need a small sharp screwdriver to get c clip out. Did you change the fan belt at same time ? Also worth checking the VC still works. Bearmach BTW.

Top one is on Facebook, buddies, can see where you have been that day. Bottom one is of ViewRanger screen dump to show what it looks like - mine runs on the Samsung i8910hd.

Oh sorry typo on my part, meant 7kx16 is stamped on rim. Got a standard Modular as a spare, and its a good 2cm narrower from the bolt holes to the outer rim. Not sure why these deep dish ones are not generally available as means you don't need spacers to push the tyre out to edge of legal limit for wheel arch. Unless someones knows different. Forgot to mention they are the version that do not have the rivet nuts on them.

Got a set of BFG A/T 235/85R16's on Silver modular rims. The stamp on the rim says 17kx16 Trying to find another rim for the spare - the offset from the centre bolts holes to the rim edge is approximately 10cm or 4" Anyone knows if this was a limited batch or are they a known size - cannot locate anywhere. Thanks Peter

I have an old 90 with discs at the front (and a rr back axle with discs at rear) Am going to change the the front wheel hubs to RR classic, thought it might be a good time to upgrade the discs too at the front. Has anyone any experience of Britpart drilled and slotted discs. And do they use standard pads. Is this false economy i.e. should just go the EDC route. Please advise. Thanks